Thread: Fixing water pump corroded pipe

I'd be replacing that personally, the cheapo water pump I put in my 94 classic has survived 40 odd thousand k's so far but that's just my experience.

No special tools, made sure the bolts went back in the same holes they came out from, and was really careful scraping the remains of the gasket of the block.

My pump was leaking, from memory the pipe was no where near as corroded.

Pluck a Duck!
You can get a "genuine" eg Quinton Hazell in A QH not LR box from LR Direct for much less. But you have to know the part number.

But what are the head gaskets/heads/radiator/etc like?

No special tools needed , but I would imagine most of the bolts will be so corroded that they will break as you remove them and you may be faced with a lot of extracting stubs. So WD 40 all the ones you can see from the rear and front.
Regard sPhilip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Pluck a Duck!
You can get a "genuine" eg Quinton Hazell in A QH not LR box from LR Direct for much less. But you have to know the part number.


, but I would imagine most of the bolts will be so corroded that they will break as you remove them ....Regard sPhilip A

Ah, like the sound of QH in a QH box, with price to match!

- ... should have realized that "something" idiotic could go badly wrong simply by undoing a bolt or three. Typical $%^%&& LandRover

Don't want to think about the rest of the engine... Its running nice and smooth, not pressurising the coolant, oil stays pretty clean and not using either.

Definately not worth 'looking at' in case I disturb any corrosion...!. The next owner can have that honour.

So what causes this level of corrosion? I have some minor corrosion on mine.

So what causes this level of corrosion? I have some minor corrosion on mine.

Using tap water in the radiator , particularly in WA with high mineral content and maybe wrong Ph, and not using 50/50 coolant and not changing regularly.
EG I met a bloke in a 80 Cruiser at Millstream who had a leak in his radiator core. He lived in Port Hedland and the core was a genuine Toyota and 1year old. IMHO the dealer filled it with tap water and insufficient coolant.
On the other hand I had my radiator rodded after 11years as a precaution before a trip to Cape York and the radiator was extremely clean inside and there was NO corrosion on the water pump or anywhere else. This is from using distilled water only and changing Nulon Long Life Coolant every two years at 50/50.
Regards Philip A

Amen to the above !

Never had a problem years ago using WA tap water in the Crown, but then again our water was MUCH better then, AND I used good coolant which was changed every year. The overflow bottle also worked properly too.

(I was younger then, lots more enthusiastic and had been suitably terrified by the dealer as to what happens to alloy heads if.... )

Same with my Passat. Replaced the head soon after buying it with a factory-New one. Some years later when I did the rings/bottom end, the head was still 'bare metal' in the galleries. Same reason, 50+ glycol mix and distilled water/rain water, changed regularly and keeping the air out of the system via the overflow bottle.

I['ve been told that the corrosion around say, thermostat housing-pipes and my water pump can be caused by hoses leaking air into the cut ends via the reinforcing material, then a subsequent crack into the inside of the hose... Coolant drips get out the same way...

Or air getting into the system, and bubbles gathering there...

Or simply doing up the clamps tooo tight, especially a cheapy clamp with sharp edges...which damages the hose, leading to the same result. Dunno myself, though my hose is damaged like this.- See pic 3

All comes down to inadequate coolant maintanance, the only area I don't stint on.

With all the various metals in the circuit, I wonder why sacrificial anodes (zinc) are'nt used...

Just got a reply back from Utah, t'other side of the planet...
If I was to buy a water pump from the middle of USA.... the shipping would be $US 59.00 - Makes the non-genuine (but better warranty one with a brass impeller) a total of $US 200.00 Very reasonable.

Consulted with my friendly Mechanic, and he assures me that a resin-filled repair done with competance & care, will be safe and effective. He's used this approach on customer's cars (with their approval) and has'nt had a come-back.
The pipe looks a LOT better with the crud removed and wire-brushed into submission.

Will post the inevitable pics when the job is done.

In the process of removing the bottom hose... this thing fell out. I've never seen anything like it in an auto hose... Likely suspect is the splice where the thinner hose travels northwards to the plastic tank... One end is flared, and the other is cut with a pipe-cutter.

Anyone else found one?- Or know if its supposed to be there? Or a Good Idea to have one rattling around inside hose or water pump ?

Found my son's camera, so the pics are a bit sharper !

Access is easierwith the oil filter is removed.. Good excuse for an extra oil/filter change. And check the serpentine belt...paint the timing marks for visibility... change the power steering hose whilst I'm grubby...

Funny, this came up only a couple of weeks ago. I have never looked but apparently it is a strengthener from inside the small stub at the bottom of the expansion tank , where the hose goes to half way along the bottom radiator hose.

Maybe araldite it back in place as it would not do the pump much good.
Regards Philip A