i think i have rust free both in the shed [lower is of an older 2 door] if youre struggling
Well, I have had no trouble after replacing the upper gate with an aluminium one from MRA - rough stuff and all. I replaced the seals, catches and strikes at the same time, and took a lot of care to get the gate in the right spot. I suspect the reason for the pop open is that the strikes' pins are not quite long enough (about 2 mm short) and any body flex takes one or the other out of engagement with the latch.
FWIW
Pete
Last edited by Pierre; 3rd November 2011 at 04:42 PM. Reason: ./s
Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE![]()
The catches on my 94 LSE hatch released a few times and eventually the strut connections to the hatch brittle fractured from the inertia of the repeated uncommanded openings at speed. Bloody things are rivetted on too, which makes replacement a bitch.
First I'd generally know of it happening would be a good whiff of exhaust through the vacuum created by the open hatch. Can't knock that quiet operation!
I now use the prestige substitute of a paint roller handle to hold the back hatch open. Of course without any strut assistance. At least it can't spring open again without the struts. Good old gravity. Weighs a tonne.
But I'm ordering new bits right about now. Must add new latches to the list of necessities.
Didn't realise it was such a common problem. Knew about the rust, but not the dud latches...
Mine came with 2 stuffed gas-lifters... PO was using a High-Tech Aluminium rod to hold it up.... which gave it a slight twist,,, so I've replaced one lifter, - the rivetted strut connector is broken on the other...
Net result is that it stays up.... Just.... but won't lift itself up.
Cunning Old James in Perth,
'95 Vogue SE with working EAS...
I don't doubt that there are some rust-free items out there. However I have an inherent distrust in buying second hand items at a premium price unless I can get a look at it first.
I'm not sure that it is possible to tell if there is internal rust until you take the thing apart - and then I doubt that you would be able to get it back together again as a fully functioning unit as there will be some distortion caused by pulling the frame from the glass.
On that basis I thought a $411 aluminium unit to be a far better bet than an $800 steel unit. Just my preference.
Why not change the position of the struts so that they want to stay closed? There was a kit availible some years ago which I have on mime. I dont think it would be too hard to make one from scratch. I have attached pics of mine so you can get the idea. I have had this setup now on 2 rangies. You get to a certain point when closing and then it wants to close and remains so. You do have to drill out the top mounts and move them but this is no big deal.. I think it was rangie spares who did them.
By the way I have just bought an ali tailgate brand new for 150 bucks from someone who bought it years ago but never used it.
Brad![]()
Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
LROCWA Ex member 23 years
1971 Series 2A
2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
1989 Vogue auto
2011 TDV8 Vogue
What would life be without a Rangie?
to answer your question around $100 is generally asked if they re in good condition. Maybe a bit less or more, depending on year / condition.
Used to happen to my 2 door all the time. It was a few years ago but its something like this:
If its still there, remove the cover from the bottom inside of the top door. It covers the lock internals and the two (push rods for want of a better word?) If I remember rightly they adjust by screwing the push rod in/out, (might be confused about this though) screw it further out and give the lock mechanism a pull apart and clean. Also the push rods in mine where a little bent so I straightened them. It done the trick now it closes better than on my 93' and it never opens.
Or you could do what I did before that and buy an elastic strap![]()
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