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Thread: whats the going rate on 2nd hand lower and upper tailgates

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    latrobe valley victoria
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    i think i have rust free both in the shed [lower is of an older 2 door] if youre struggling

  2. #12
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    Jan 1970
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    Adelaide - Torrens Park
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog View Post

    Guys in SA are asking $8-900 for rust-free items from salvage. I would guess that they are not 'entirely' rust free.
    I don't see why not. Mine has no rust (original tailgate, 10/87 build).

  3. #13
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    Jan 1970
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    Blairgowrie, Vic
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    Well, I have had no trouble after replacing the upper gate with an aluminium one from MRA - rough stuff and all. I replaced the seals, catches and strikes at the same time, and took a lot of care to get the gate in the right spot. I suspect the reason for the pop open is that the strikes' pins are not quite long enough (about 2 mm short) and any body flex takes one or the other out of engagement with the latch.

    FWIW

    Pete
    Last edited by Pierre; 3rd November 2011 at 04:42 PM. Reason: ./s
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

  4. #14
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    Oct 2010
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    Melbourne VIC
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    strut bracket auto destruct sequence initiated

    The catches on my 94 LSE hatch released a few times and eventually the strut connections to the hatch brittle fractured from the inertia of the repeated uncommanded openings at speed. Bloody things are rivetted on too, which makes replacement a bitch.

    First I'd generally know of it happening would be a good whiff of exhaust through the vacuum created by the open hatch. Can't knock that quiet operation!

    I now use the prestige substitute of a paint roller handle to hold the back hatch open. Of course without any strut assistance. At least it can't spring open again without the struts. Good old gravity. Weighs a tonne.

    But I'm ordering new bits right about now. Must add new latches to the list of necessities.

    Didn't realise it was such a common problem. Knew about the rust, but not the dud latches...

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Gosnells
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    Mine came with 2 stuffed gas-lifters... PO was using a High-Tech Aluminium rod to hold it up.... which gave it a slight twist,,, so I've replaced one lifter, - the rivetted strut connector is broken on the other...

    Net result is that it stays up.... Just.... but won't lift itself up.

    Cunning Old James in Perth,

    '95 Vogue SE with working EAS...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    LOL and Range Rovers ARE?
    Point taken

  7. #17
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    Jun 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    I don't see why not. Mine has no rust (original tailgate, 10/87 build).
    I don't doubt that there are some rust-free items out there. However I have an inherent distrust in buying second hand items at a premium price unless I can get a look at it first.
    I'm not sure that it is possible to tell if there is internal rust until you take the thing apart - and then I doubt that you would be able to get it back together again as a fully functioning unit as there will be some distortion caused by pulling the frame from the glass.
    On that basis I thought a $411 aluminium unit to be a far better bet than an $800 steel unit. Just my preference.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Two Rocks WA
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    Why not change the position of the struts so that they want to stay closed? There was a kit availible some years ago which I have on mime. I dont think it would be too hard to make one from scratch. I have attached pics of mine so you can get the idea. I have had this setup now on 2 rangies. You get to a certain point when closing and then it wants to close and remains so. You do have to drill out the top mounts and move them but this is no big deal.. I think it was rangie spares who did them.
    By the way I have just bought an ali tailgate brand new for 150 bucks from someone who bought it years ago but never used it.








    Brad
    Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
    LROCWA Ex member 23 years
    1971 Series 2A
    2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
    2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
    1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
    1989 Vogue auto
    2011 TDV8 Vogue
    What would life be without a Rangie?



  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
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    to answer your question around $100 is generally asked if they re in good condition. Maybe a bit less or more, depending on year / condition.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    back in the suburbs, near joondalup
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    Quote Originally Posted by bacicat2000 View Post
    Is that just an issue he has had since changing it? I only ask because my current, original, slightly rusty unit does the same thing, and I'm buggered if I can work out how to keep it closed. Even a trip down the street will pop one side out, and a trip down a very rough track will open it completly. If anyone knows of how to fix this, I would love to hear from them.

    Cheers - Gav
    Used to happen to my 2 door all the time. It was a few years ago but its something like this:
    If its still there, remove the cover from the bottom inside of the top door. It covers the lock internals and the two (push rods for want of a better word?) If I remember rightly they adjust by screwing the push rod in/out, (might be confused about this though) screw it further out and give the lock mechanism a pull apart and clean. Also the push rods in mine where a little bent so I straightened them. It done the trick now it closes better than on my 93' and it never opens.
    Or you could do what I did before that and buy an elastic strap

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