Thread: Starting dramas.... Live from a carpark in Brunswick!!!

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Does it have a crank angle sensor? When these fail it's always a case of won't start hot, will cold.

Nope, at least according to this description of the Lucas systems,

-http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/Engine_Management/1314CU_14CUX_Systems.pdf

Further update: car started after work several times no worries, again after reaching running temp car won't start, replaced starter relay - still no good, bridged trans inhibitor switch - no good. Put a multimeter on the starter terminals and zero!? Will take bee uteys advice and run a bypass but the problem really is bizarre. I figure it's gotta be a dumb system, ie not via the brain or is it? Wouldn't mind fiddling with the factory alarm immobilizer but not without advice. What other possible things could be between the starter relay (that happily clicks) and the starter motor?

Did you check whether there was power at the input of the relay ?
Maybe the ign switch contact?
When you say checked power at the starter, do you mean the little blade terminal on the solonoid or the big terminals from the battery?
Regards Philip A

Generally, the starter-relay energising coil is fed directly from the Engine Immobiliser ECU, which in turn is signalled from the IGN switch.

Either wires may have GAPS in them...

Speaking of GAPS, check the earthing of engine to body, again... check again when the wind is blowing from the other direction.

When you feed the starter relay from 12v , (as BeeUtey suggested) it would be an idea to take off this connector, as it could give the ECU grounds for complaint, if 12 is fed into it the 'wrong way'

This is'nt your circuit diagram, though it shows how LR do it... Section 15.

http://www.legionlandrover.com/manua...k%20(2001).pdf

Assuming you can operate the starter-motor with the by-pass, then you 'll need to measure voltage at the end of this relay-firing wire when the key is operated. ( AND 'power' with a relay to suitably load the source...)

I'm suspecting the Immobiliser at this stage, being heat-sensitive. - You could use a hair-dryer on it to bring it up to operating temp. (Case comfortably warm to touch ? ) - Then see if the 'hot' ECU will start the cold engine... But measure first, as its safer...

james in perth,

'95 Vogue SE with serpentine belted 3.9

Awesome advice all round thankyou guys! This morning we ran a bypass to the solenoid, replacing the lead from the ignition circuit and she kicks over no problems hot or cold! I will definitely try the hair dryer test but seeing as it happily runs when started would that seem to lead me toward an ignition switch issue? ..... Lucas. run by a secret society of auto electricians

Yep, always do the simple tests first... and test under load if you can, a test-light (brake/indicator lamp) is low-tech, reliable and the appropriate tool for any circuit delivering power... eg, to fire a relay from the Immobiliser...

Could indeed be the IGN switch.

LUCAS, Loose, Unserviceable Connectors and Splices