Broken RRC

Years ago when new to RRC's I inadvertently drove over a 1000 k's with the CDL locked in an LT95. The only symptoms were a slight vibration and weird tyre wear.

Up till that time I'd never used the CDL so had no idea whether the light worked or not. A mate's young son had been playing with all the levers and buttons in the car and had pulled the CDL switch up, which remained un-noticed.

Upside was no damage done (they are tough boxes) and the light switch was adjusted so the light worked when engaged.

DL

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Originally Posted by mams

Turns out it was windup all along.

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Originally Posted by mams

When it locked up on the freeway no light and the cdl lever was to the right.It showed zero indication that something was wrong including driving around roundabouts and tigh car spaces when it should have chirped
The light only started to work again properly yesterday once I changed back to the original rim.
This is my fifth rover over a space of 15 years so I'm not a complete muppet.
Thanks

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With a manually operated centre diff (as you have), the only way you can have transmission wind up is if it is in the locked position.
Low range/high range will not make a difference.

If it really had transmission wind up, then you would have noticed the chirping of the tyres around tight corners.
Actually, I've not heard of transmission wind up being so bad as to make the car undriveable so I think the problem might have beeen caused by something other than an odd tyre.

Did you follow Philip's advice & check the handbrake?

Scouse may well have a point, as it was the tyres chirping on sharp corners and the too-large turning circle on smooth concrete that alerted me to a locked up Viscous Coupling. - Equivalent to an LT230 in 'locked' mode.

Indeed, I had to do the tests to convince myself that Something Expensive was Wrong... The car seemed normal regarding power and coasting/rolling at speed, and fuel useage is still virtually the same with & without the front drive shaft.

(taking off the front prop-shaft is the Gold Standard, especially if someone else watches the naked output shaft as you begin to drive off and confirms its spinning at the same rate as the rear shaft...)

Assuming the light switch is operated by the bits inside which engage the CDL and not just attached to the lever... then you have a Nasty Gremlin living in your car... Or to put it another way, I'm not comfortable with the diagnosis of 'wind-up' . Have you checked the LH rear window-winder ?

James

'95 Vogue SE Classic, with working EAS... and 2WD.

Well after all the farting arouind you have done , you Had better get that CDL indicator light fixed , as after 15 Years you dont know what windup feels like.The Light / its terminals,the switch and the switches adjustment will all need some work !

I think scouse has a good point. I guess windup isn't a good explanation for the problem in high range only. It all seems good at this point in time but I will do some more checks on the weekend. I fitted a new set of tyres last night and the old passengers rear tyre has some flat spots that I haven't noticed before.
I will check the handbrake also. I have not touched the braking system since I've had the car. Is the handbrake drum self adjusting?

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Originally Posted by mams

Is the handbrake drum self adjusting?

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No .... You have to manually adjust them.

Bottom / side of brake drum of the backing plate is a square nut
Turns 1/4 at a time for adjusting.

Just jack 1 wheel rear and 1 wheel front up in the air
Turn the nut 1/4 turn and then reef the hand brake on .... Release hand brake and then turn the brake drum 1 full revolution ....

Do this procedure until you have a happy medium between handbrake adjustment .... and no brake shoe scraping noise / friction on the drum

Cheers
Mike

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Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Do this procedure until you have a happy medium between handbrake adjustment .... and no brake shoe scraping noise / friction on the drum

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Sometimes even this doesn't guarantee that the handbrake won't drag when hot. They're a fickle beast & it can take some trial & error to get it right.


Oil leaking onto the shoes will make it a whole new ball game as the shoes can stick to the drum when left for a while :(.

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Originally Posted by Scouse

Sometimes even this doesn't guarantee that the handbrake won't drag when hot.

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I agree ... Plus add in other items:

Debris inside the drum
Broken / Fragments of brake shoes
Rusted or sticky brake components

All = removing the rear propshaft + brake drum and cleaning the parts



Remember tho ... If they are old shoes ... It will be asbestos dust in there. Means that you should wear a mask and vacuum the dust ... or wash it down


BTW ... How's things going Scouse, :) .... haven't seen you posting for a while


Cheers
Mike

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Originally Posted by Scouse

Oil leaking onto the shoes will make it a whole new ball game as the shoes can stick to the drum when left for a while :(.

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I know all about that - I don't use the hand brake at the moment, as it is full of oil, and it sticks on - can be a bugger to release... It's on my 'to do' list for the holidays.:)

Symptoms of "no power"in Hi range----Could be axle windup-- which means centre diff has locked up or linkage has fallen off.
Tyres squealing on full lock?
Worth investigating?