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Thread: transfer stuck in locked position HELP!

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS View Post
    You tired were you ,sounds like you still are !
    Whats Wont go back into High range,NO diff lock supposed to mean?
    So it will swap from High to Low and back to High ?
    Can you even get the high/low in nuetral ?
    So you can get low range ,without difflock ?
    Can you get low range with difflock ?
    Go back to bed ,and when your sure of what it is actaully doing ,let us Know

    Maks sense to me - I think he means it won't drive in high range - no diff lock - to which he got a sensible reply from Bee Utey. Maybe you should go back to bed and have a rest...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bacicat2000 View Post
    Maks sense to me - I think he means it won't drive in high range - no diff lock - to which he got a sensible reply from Bee Utey. Maybe you should go back to bed and have a rest...
    But that is after he said........

    Quote Originally Posted by nat p View Post
    SO I had to drive it home in high range with the centre diff lock on.
    So you are saying you understood that it wont drive in high range, and natP is saying that he had to drive it home in high range......


    I'm confused. I think you should all go back to bed

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog View Post
    But that is after he said........



    So you are saying you understood that it wont drive in high range, and natP is saying that he had to drive it home in high range......


    I'm confused. I think you should all go back to bed

    I think I need to lie down...

    He said it won't drive in high range - no diff lock - ie no drive without the diff lock in, but it would drive in high range...

    NAT - chime in here again to put us straight!!!
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #14
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    wow, much confusion!

    i read it as 'high range - no difflock' was just as it says, high range without difflock engaged, As in, for it to either get into high range or drive in high range he needs the shifter over on the difflock side.

    So its my understanding that 1 of 2 things is happing,

    The lever physically wont go back into high range normally possibly hitting on something or jamming, it needs to be pushed over to diff lock to actually get the lever there,
    or
    in high range it won;t drive without the CDL engaged, in which case, as Bee Utey and Bacicat2000 said, diff or axle has let go and it needs CDL in to stop all the drive taking the easiest option. This would also mean no drive in low range without CDL engaged.

    so i guess we now need more info;
    does the lever physically shift into high range ok?
    Can you drive the car in low range with the CDL disengaged?
    1986 Range Rover Hiline
    2004 D2 TD5

  5. #15
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    Ok, I've slept and I am now well rested...
    I drive it home in high range with the centre diff in the locked position.

    Im also now sure there is/was a noise coming from the front. I thought it must be a cv joint. It sounds like a thunk thunk and is related to speed. As it increases speed and the car does. I didn't mention this cos I thought it was unrelated. Maybe I was wrong.

    Back the the original post.

    Drive = high and low range centre diff locked on.

    No drive = high and low range cente diff unlocked.

    It seems to go all the way over to engage gears but I could not find any.

    Hence the question was us there an adjustment in the linkage OR have I broken something?

    I'm playing with it tomorrow night and I'll keep everyone informed.

    Cheers Nat

  6. #16
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    Sounds like something has gone in the front diff by what you say. If you don't have the CDL engaged the drive will go to the area of least resistance. Hence if the front diff or CV has gone the drive will go there. By putting the CDL in your sending drive to the other end giving you drive.
    Cheers, David.
    My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
    D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.

  7. #17
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    Exactly the same for a rear diff ,could be either. Its just that nat p at no time reprts hearing the snapping of shafts,the crunching of broken teeth on the CP,the graunching of broken CV's

  8. #18
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    Ok well,
    The update, it was not the centre diff, it's the front diff, not completely sure what part, but I'm 85% sure it's the left Hand drive shaft. So the an is now to Change diffs, I reckon it would be faster to change the whole unit instead I changin the half shafts. I reckon it would be faster. Thoughts??

    Cheers Nat

  9. #19
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    i forget what year yours is, but pull the drive flange off the end of diff and make sure that hasn;t snapped, mushroom looking thing on the end, 5 bolts and nice and easy. make sure it hasn;t snapped internally.

    1986 Range Rover Hiline
    2004 D2 TD5

  10. #20
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    yep, thats the first thing I checked, I was all crossed up hoping that it was the issue. But both were fine. Yep a buggar!
    I'm not sure when I even did it. I can remember a couple of times when my right foot did not talk to my head (read wallet) and I forgot I was in low range and I did hear a couple of bangs but none were overly huge!
    Well I am assuming it not the CV joints, I would think they would make quite a bit of noise. I got a screwdriver and used it as a listening device (works really well, all it does is transfer vibrations into your hear and hey presto!), The sounds seem to come more from the left (long shaft) side.

    I have a spare diff which is a ready to go.

    Cheers NAT

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