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Thread: RR Classic Upper Tailgate

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    RR Classic Upper Tailgate

    Any suggestions for how to dismantle the tailgate window frame on an RR Classic? Trying to treat rusted vertical section on left side. Or is this impossible and new or one of those expensive aluminium kits the only solution. Rest of it is perfect.

  2. #2
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Give it 6 months, and it'll probably disassemble itself.

    Seriously though, once the rust starts to show, it's generally gone right through the frame, and its just a matter of weeks/months and it'll be breaking out everywhere.

    I've found a mob in the UK that has the ally kits for about $200 australian. I'm just waiting on a postage quote. I'll let you know when it comes through.

  3. #3
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by aRRon View Post
    Trying to treat rusted vertical section on left side.
    Grab a spray can of INOX ... Make sure it has an extension tube

    Close the tail gate and spray along the bottom of the glass (Where it meets the frame) ... watch it soak between the glass and the frame

    Open the tailgate and insert the extension tube into all the nooks n cranny's.

    This will slow the rusting down .... spray once a month ... I've kept my tailgate rust at bay for years doing this

    Fisholene works great also


    Cheers
    Mike

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Pull the rubber off underneath+trim and you'll most likely find more rust. Mine only had a few spots on the left pillar but the bottom frame shagged.

    Can't remember how much I paid for my kit, I thought it was the late $300's delivered to my door? mmm the freight was nearly the same as the frame kit.
    I gave my alloy frame to O'briens to fit the glass as I wasn't to sure about sealing it.

    I had to cut my steel frame in the corner to remove the glass.

    Ahhhh the joys of Range Rover ownership

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by milld View Post

    Ahhhh the joys of Range Rover ownership
    Tell me about them !!!

    Rusting top tailgate,
    Bitten by BW viscious coupling,
    Sunroof now fails to proceed rearwards...

    The "Event Horizon" -'95 RRC Vogue SE

  6. #6
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Fisholene works great also
    I used "deodorised" fish oil in a spray can. Deodorised my fat butt! The car smelled like a disused fish shop for weeks. Though I'm sure it stopped the rust for a while.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  7. #7
    Heyujimmy Guest

    upper tailgate

    You can purchase the aluminium kit from the UK costs about $375 delivered.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    perth
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    At those prices i'll be suffering a rusty tailgate for quite a while.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    The tailgates come apart with a lot of gentle persuation, and a lot of patience!

    Take off the pannels covering the latch rods
    Undo the 4 screws securing the latches (I had to drill and later tapped one of these)
    Undo the 2 latch rods.
    Undo the four flat head screws on the sides on the frame (again I drilled and later tapped two of these)
    Soak the corners, and the bottom glass channel in wd40 (may take a few days).
    Gently tap the bottom channel out. I used a rubber mallet, tapping gently from the inside of the frame, this took about 4 hours.

    The two side channels, and the top one are one piece, I left the glass in place, though there may be rust in the glass channel of the side frame.
    I've had a frame rust out on me before, and they're a mess! With this one I removed all the rust scale (luckily no holes that went right through the channels), put rust convertor on it, gal primed it, painted it with KBH rust seal paint, then filled the stupidly designed thing with body wax. I drilled 7mm holes down the sides, and at the lowest point of the bottom channel (which is inside the car, but i've had no water drip in yet) to let the frame breath a bit, and any water drain out, and painted the holes. I coated the lower glass channel, and the rubber strip it sits in with body wax before I assembled it all. I had to re poprivet the lower sealing strip channel back too.

    Mine seemed to be rusting pretty badly, and looked like it was just about to explode with it. This was done about 3 years ago, and it's still like it was when I re-assembled it.

    Getting the bottom channel rubber to sit properly when assembling it was a right royal PITA!!!!!! I ended up buying a lot wider rubber strip than needed, and trimmed the sides off when all assembled. From memory it was .8mm thick, and 60mm wide.

    Also, feeding the lower seal back into the c channel was a similar effort. Coating both in WD40, and feeding it in from one side was the most effective, and then glueing the ends back on.

    To get the rust scales off, I managed to find a bottle cleaner with wire bristles, and used a body wax spray gun with a tube extension to spray the rust inhibitor, and wax. With the paints I tipped about 350ml in the side channels, and 'flowed' it around the sides (really messy).

    Put aside a whole weekend if your going to do this.

    I took me a bit longer as I took the oppertunity to blow out, and wax all the body channels too.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Thanks heaps Benji for your detailed info - this is exactly the work what I anticipated I'd be doing. Fortunately my bottom rail is close to perfect. Your experience in removing the bottom rail is most helpful.

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