Thread: My 86 Rangie Hiline

Think it will just have to be a mystery but I’m happy I found it and that isn’t there any more. I have a new water pump and idler bearing I’ll fit in the next day or two then I’ll know if all is right with the engine after that.

Originally Posted by Homestar

Think it will just have to be a mystery but I’m happy I found it and that isn’t there any more. I have a new water pump and idler bearing I’ll fit in the next day or two then I’ll know if all is right with the engine after that.

Oh .... you don't have the bearing number handy do you I have two noisy serpentine belt tensioners here. I'll whip upto ballarat bearings and grab another if you can remember the bearing number

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Oh .... you don't have the bearing number handy do you I have two noisy serpentine belt tensioners here. I'll whip upto ballarat bearings and grab another if you can remember the bearing number

I use a 6204-2RS (2 rubber seals) on a serpentine belt V8, but there may be a bigger one on a tdi. (6304), not done one.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Oh .... you don't have the bearing number handy do you I have two noisy serpentine belt tensioners here. I'll whip upto ballarat bearings and grab another if you can remember the bearing number

Here’s a pic of the invoice - saves me typing it out again. Apparently it’s actually a specific idler bearing with a light weight grease in it - common across a range of OEM’s. CBC had several on the shelf at Airport West this arvo.
679578E5-9AC1-4C1D-9AAB-8E6846C4065B.jpg

On another note, I think I’ve sorted the hard starting when cold but won’t know until I get everything back together. After reading up the link OF posted I went to check the temp sender as if this open circuits the ECU will default to 40 degrees which makes it hard to start when cold (yes) and over fuels it when warm (exhaust is quite smelly and I was thinking this was the case). Anyway, when I checked it and found the connector had popped off - the spring clip nowhere to be seen, so guessing that was the culprit...

Originally Posted by Homestar

On another note, I think I’ve sorted the hard starting when cold but won’t know until I get everything back together. After reading up the link OF posted I went to check the temp sender as if this open circuits the ECU will default to 40 degrees which makes it hard to start when cold (yes) and over fuels it when warm (exhaust is quite smelly and I was thinking this was the case). Anyway, when I checked it and found the connector had popped off - the spring clip nowhere to be seen, so guessing that was the culprit...

Oh, now that is interesting. I woudn't have picked that. My assumption would have been an unplugged sensor would lead the car to think its minus infinity degrees, so would flood so badly it would barely run. Assuming its 40degrees will allow everything to work ..... very poorly leaving you tearing your hair out in frustration

Thanks for the bearing specs

Oh just to prove my luck is holding out .... The gasket set arrived yesterday. 2 bent head gaskets, and a kinked valley cover gasket .... sigh.... gotta love australia post!

I knew the ECU temp sender could cause issues but only when reading up on it I found out about it reverting to 40 degrees when it sees an open circuit - this was chosen to allow the car to start under most circumstances, even if hard and to run well enough at normal temps to get you home although running a bit rich, so actually quite a good design IMO.

Hopefully have the rad back in this arvo all going well...

Well it’s back together and I’m hopeful it’s all better but still have some testing to do. Hard starting is still an issue when cold so will have to look elsewhere other than then temp sender now. Will chuck a BIM024 ignition amp in - it’s been on my to do list anyway and see what that brings.