yeah bring on the pics Nick!
I like the 7100 remote resevoir shocks because of the larger oil volume and better gas pressurisation, overall less fade particularly with corrugations. The resevoirs can take a bit of work to fit but I can send some pics of how I did mine. The 100/400 figure relates to the compression and rebound damping of the shock. This one works well on the rear of my RRC given the springs and its loaded weight. I think I used the next lighter one for the fronts, I'll chase up the numbers for you if you want them. These shocks can be rebuilt and the damping characteristics can also be adjusted if need be. Just remember that you will need pin to eye converters to fit them to a RRC. I changed my rear upper mounts to Rovertyme ones so didn't need the converters there.
Cheers
Nick
yeah bring on the pics Nick!
OK FIXR7 I'll get some on the weekend
Nick
And the specs, too, so that the rest of us can learn from the money you spent!
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
OK FIXR & Davo here are details as requested, hope the pics work as I’m a bit of an amateur at posting pics .
The shocks are Bilstein 7100 as mentioned before, all are 10" travel.
Serial Nos are:
Front AK7100SB99 360/80 - (SB = Short Body and 360/80 is the damping rates)
Rear AK7100SB99 400/100
I bought the shocks from Great Basin Rovers at about $180 each, can't remember what the postage was but not expensive. I got them with Polly bushes instead of the Heim joints that they come with as stock. Heims are great for racing and look slick but the Polly bushes are better for a tourer like mine.
I made the eye to pin converters that you can see in the pics (four for the front and two for the rear lower mounts. I used Rovertyme upper rear shock mounts as these fit the eyes for the shocks. The front shock turrets are the usual tubular aftermarket ones that I have raised these with 2" spacers but you can buy these turrets in +2”. You can see the remote canisters mounted in the engine bay on some alloy brackets (getting a bit crowded in there!) the rears are mounted from the rear body one pic shows the canister hanging off the fillers for the sill tanks.
Overall really happy with the shocks and the performance. I've used gas Konis in the past (Toyota 80 series length) but they didn't last and were overpriced for what you got in my opinion. I managed to wear out two sets when I was living in WA but I guess 15,000Ks in the Kimberly will do that.
Let me know if you need more info
Cheers
Nick
Bloomin Marvellous, Thanks Nick!
So what's the rest of your vehicle spec so I can understand the suitability of the shocks you bought? Mine is for touring too. It currently has King springs replacing the Air springs with a slight lift of, I suspect about 50mm.
With the extra weight of my 351 would you suggest a slightly different damping spec for the front?
Having said all that I'll probably just buy std. Bilsteins from Famousfour because I need to hurry the **** up and get it going again!?
Cheers,
Pete.
Hi Pete
I'd go 400/100 on the front as well as the rear given the weight of the 351. I don't know if you can get that damping in the standard Bilsteins. Shipping from the States only took about 10 days, I'd get the 7100s given all the work you've done so far. Mine is a 4.6 with top hat liners and ARP studs and it runs on an MS2 Extra injection & ignition computer. I also put a GQ gearbox in it which weighs about 3 times as much as the old R380 so that plus bullbar,winch and sill tanks adds up. I run LRA springs which are about +2" and a 2" body lift. Let me know if you need extra info, been loving watching the big Ford going into the Rangie
Cheers
Nick
Cheers Nick,
I know you're right but the problem is I tend to go too far sometimes and there has to be some things that I do later when the car is going.
I wish I hadn't destroyed the original front shocks now...those ****ing woodhead things have shafts made of case hardened lead!?
I suppose I could buy the 7100's and fit the fronts and worry about fitting the rears later.
Of course I have even less room with ABS on my rangie. As for weight, I don't have a winch or sill tanks(yet) but that steel ARB front bar sure ain't light.
Is the GQ box bolted to a 230? I read about a Landy recently that had an entire GQ driveline, diffs and all.
Glad you like the conversion btw.
Pete.
Yes know what you mean Pete these projects can become never-ending sometimes. The GQ box mates up to the LT230 but it moves it back about 10" so on mine I've got an EX brake disc instead of the LR drum hand break. The set up also uses the GQ bell housing which bolts up to the 4.6 with a ring type adaptor. There are lots of pics on Cal415s thread on his LS powered County. A nice byproduct of the GQ box is that you end up with lower low range gearing with the LT230.
Nick
Yes and it's particularly bad when there's another more important project languishing in the shed.
I was thinking of one of those disc hand brake kits for mine too.
The 4R70W I'm using has good ratio advantages too. I'm just worried about diffs and axles with all that low end torque...
1st 2.84 vs 2.48
2nd 1.55 vs 1.48
and a slightly taller 4th; 0.70 vs 0.728
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