Reply With Quotefound all the relevant stuff i need now.
knew i should have looked tried different key words before asking.
I know this has been covered previously but i cant find the right key words in the search engine to get me exactly the info I need.
I have my 83 rangie and I recently put in a new cam (heaps better lots more low/mid range power - will do a review in good time when i get some more data back on it)..I've also had the LT230 and R380 rebuilt recently (just standard- nothing special)
I'm now planning on turning my attention to the rest of the driveline. I already broke the rear once within a few months of owning it, haven't been on and (real = rocks) 4x4ing since only playing on sand/mud so haven't put much pressure on the driveline.
I do drive with a heavy foot and enjoy stirring up the ricers, so just babying it is not a sensible option cause thats not me...
I'm currently running ~30" tyres but eventually want to end up with 33s at most, might step up in stages within next 6 months is 31s.I'd like to keep the housing rover, as having a smaller pumpkin seems to me like a good idea unless other benefits heavily outweigh this.
some research suggests:
rovertrack (toyota/longfields) conversion:
seems to be the strongest of the bunch but not sure if I need that much - also I heard alot of people snapping longfield stuff at willowglen on the weekend (thought that is comp stuff).
maxi, ashcroft, jaymac, coff harbour 4x4 HD or other HD options:
convert to patrol or cruiser or mog (that's just crazy talk):
simple, strong but bigger pumpkin and ill need new rims.
ideas, suggestion.
sorry i know this stuff is covered all over the place, its jsut hard to collate the relevant information for my needs
Master
found all the relevant stuff i need now.
knew i should have looked tried different key words before asking.
Install a defender 110 diff in the rear. Thats what I have done with no issues.
Master
Supporterexcept for newfound lack of ground clearance......Originally Posted by tebone
1986 Range Rover Hiline
2004 D2 TD5
Wizard
Maxidrive in the rear axle and have fun would be my suggestion. You can worry about the front later if you get serious.
Rovertracks stuff won't fit your axles.
Master
I'm on 35s, rear maxi with axles and I haven't been able to break it. Really good setup, easy to do and yes you can still get them (MR Automotive I believe).
Do the rear first, and learn how to drive it. Otherwise you'll get yourself in all sorts of bad situations!
I would rather have a lack of clearance with the 110 defender diff than blowning up crown wheel and pinions all the time especially running larger tyres.except for newfound lack of ground clearance......
Lockers strengthen the spider gear set up but the weak point is the crown wheel and pinion. I pegged the crown wheel on my front diff (installed a thurst plate agianst the crown wheel so it wouldn't flex under heavy load which is the problem).
If you handy in the shed one option is pegging the crown wheel and installing a locker to strengthen the spider gear setup.
I paid $750 for the defender rear and cost me $50 to shorten the tail shaft. This is the way to go if you have large tyres and don't mine using the accelerator.
OldBushie
Ahh why won't rovertracks stuff fit? I have it in the front of mine. and rear but thats a sals. Unless your talking about keiths toy conversion? And still no reason why that won't fit either.
Wizard
The OP is talking about an 83 RR, which has the earlier, larger CV joints. Keith's stuff was only for the later model axles.
Of course, he no longer sells the 24 spline CV package..
Moderator
Dead easy to take 20mm off the bottom of a Sals without really tryingexcept for newfound lack of ground clearance......
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