Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Thermo's and switches

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dungowan
    Posts
    916
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Thermo's and switches

    My 'spare' rangie has a larger radiator and twin shrouded thermos, so was thinking about swapping this into my driver ('86 3.5 efi manual). Since i have removed the A/C compressor to fit a second alternator, i will ditch the condensor as well.

    Questions
    What temp switch setting to use? I am running a 88' thermostst atm. I have an adjustable switch, the ones that slip in under the top hose, that i don't want to use. I was thinging of either using the the spot in the thermostat housing or fitting a socket to the 'hot' side tank of the radiator. Std fan switch in the thermostat housing appears to be 102-97' 22x1.5mm thread, other temps are available. If fitting a switch to radiator, could make a socket to suit whatever thread.

    A/C fans, remove them or leave them as a just in case back up? Switched either manually or with a second temp switch at a slightly higher setting maybe.

    Rick

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,169
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I would have a switch triggered by the temp of the heads or manifold rather than the radiator, although lots of cars have them in the radiator,

    I posted a thread called something like "cheap temperature gauge" for $25 which has a relay control for fan switching.
    I have one in mine and it has been great though I do not have it switching a relay.

    My RRC 3.9 with viscous fan runs at about 92-94C on a 30C plus day so I would switch at say 96 in say 92 out, if you do not want them cutting in ands out all the time .

    I have never had my a/c fans come on for temp, although heat soak after switch off adds about 5C and I have seen 100C on a hot day by my gauge, but I do know what that is at the thermostat
    .
    I would keep the A/C fans but you should be aware that they draw about 8amps each and the bigger fans will be 12amps each plus. during hot slow work or at idle it won't take long to drop the battery, as most alternators only put out about 15amps or so at idle.
    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dungowan
    Posts
    916
    Total Downloaded
    0
    yeah, mine behaves much the same. Normal is just below 90, push it hard up a big hill and it mite get to around 93-94. I do notice that the guage reads low (80deg) in easy driving at low, 10-15deg, temps and down to near 60 in sub zero ambiants. Guage is in top radiator hose which i know is not ideal.

    I'm guessing the sensor location may play a part in the switching temp range required, ie a lower setting if fitted to the radiator tank than if fitted to the t/stat housing. Maybe i should run the heat gun over the tanks and see what it reads compared to the guage.

    So maybe a 95-90 (available in M22x1.5 thread) to switch the main fans and the std 102-97 for the condensor fans. Could maybe even switch the main fans in 2 stages.

    I do have dual batteries and dual alternators, so not overly worried about the amp draw, but its something to keep in mind.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Kalamunda WA
    Posts
    327
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You may find your original condenser fans a hindrance to actual airflow. So maybe better to remove them. I'm using EL Falcon fans on mine and still have AC but also a trans cooler with its own fan. Although this covers approx 1/3 of the frontal area the EL fans draw results in the trans cooler fan spinning at considerable speed even when stationary. It maybe that the original condenser fans will be too much drag?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dungowan
    Posts
    916
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by FIXR7 View Post
    You may find your original condenser fans a hindrance to actual airflow. So maybe better to remove them. I'm using EL Falcon fans on mine and still have AC but also a trans cooler with its own fan. Although this covers approx 1/3 of the frontal area the EL fans draw results in the trans cooler fan spinning at considerable speed even when stationary. It maybe that the original condenser fans will be too much drag?
    Good point.

    The fans that i have are Ford, guessing falcon but no idea of model. The shrouding looks differant to the cut and shut AU fan i fitted to my Suzuki Sierra tho.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,169
    Total Downloaded
    0
    But because the aircon condenser on a RRC is small it will build a lot of pressure without condenser fans, as I found .

    My viscous did not give enough airflow to have the pressure at reasonable levels and I had a couple of hoses fail..
    Maybe Falcon electric fans will suck enough, but you would have to be sure that you have a very good seal between the radiator and condenser.
    Prados have a nice big condenser and don't have any electric fans at all , just viscous. Now that I like.
    Regards Philip A

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!