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8th January 2013, 12:31 PM
#1
93 Faults
I have recently acquired #1 daughter's 93 classic, (my 87 along with my almost complete 85 will be on the market place in the next few days) it's a very, very neat & tidy unit, EAS has been removed and the coil/shock absorber suspension is superb.
Like all Classics it has a few problems, minor front screen leak, interior lights don't work from door switches, no cruise control (Superquad gave me some insights into this prob), rear windows sometimes refuse to close, hazard lights only work on the right hand side, (found this can be overcome by engaging the left blinker at the same time) and of course the aircon needs re-gassing. Read with interest the posts on HiChill, spoke to the guy who runs my old workshop he reckons they can't use it as it does not comply with the ADR's???
All these I think I can handle with a little patience and probably the loss of what little hair I have left, but one I need the help of the many Sages on this site is the alarm/immobiliser. Had problems with it just after she got the car, a post here, a new fob battery and the correct procedure on batt instillation, success, the only thing I noticed was the blinkers only flashed once on unlocking and not at all on locking, figured it was just a Classic idiosyncrasy, all was fine until recently, suddenly when she tried to lock the car it locked and unlocked immediately, if you opened the door the alarm sounded and the engine was immobilised, close the door, hit the fob, same scenario with blinker flash and off you go, #1 daughter's solution, don't lock the car. Fine for down here but SWMBO and I may like to go to the big smoke sometime and feel it a little unwise to leave her open. On reading the hand book they say that when the blinker only flashes once on unlocking it is a sign of a flat battery, trouble is they don't tell you which battery, both the vehicle battery and the fob battery are new, waiting for a new dvd drive so can't open Rave to check out if there is a battery in the immobiliser system, any help with this problem will be greatly appreciated.
I am going to change the brake fluid, are there any traps that the unwary may fall into, from memory the instructions in Rave seem pretty straight forward, but nothing like obtaining first hand knowledge from those who know.
Thanks Fellas
Jhonno
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8th January 2013, 01:32 PM
#2
Highly recommend HiChill, been running it in my 1984 RRC and it's great. A guy from Monash Uni did tests and said there is not enough gas in the system to cause problems but it's up to you. My compressor stopped rattling and the A/C is as cold as when the car was 15 years newer. R134A has killed people in aeroplanes so I am not sure how safe it is either!
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8th January 2013, 01:55 PM
#3
My 93 handbook states that the hazard lights should flash 3 times on arming the system. If batteries are low the hazard lights flash once for 3 seconds. On disarming the hazard lights flash once only. No mention of flat battery in disarming instruction.
My Vogue SE works this way whether armed/disarmed with key, in either front door lock, or using the handset.
Regards,
John
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8th January 2013, 02:57 PM
#4
Have'nt heard that one... (HyChill not complying with ADR's.) - especially as R134a is very damaging to the enviroment... and is likely to leak out of a good system let alone an older one.
Don't take my word for it, spend some time on the 'net... and have a chat with HyChill and the others. - HC gasses have been used in Europe for a while now. The replacement for R134a is...hang on, why would you want to replace a "perfect" gas with another brew, unless 134a is being phased out... - a great unknown, but comes with similar assurances (from the manufacturers, of course) that it is the Ant's Pants and Safe As Houses...
Speaking of 'houses' , and houses being burned in the intense heat of bushfires... I wonder if this new, Improved and Whiter-Than-White gas will also produce hydroFLOURIC acid as a combustion by-product...
Propane / Butane mixtures don't. Or any other poisonous substances.
What makes you think I don't trust Big Government or Corporations ?????
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8th January 2013, 05:38 PM
#5
Same as my handbook, just curious as to which batteries they are referring, the only ones I know of are new. the hazards have never flashed using the key, had to give up using the key as sometimes it would remain armed when unlocked, then you had to use the fob, sometimes tricky as the fob was quite moody and only worked when it felt like it. new batt and reprogram the fob and all seemed sweet (though only the single flash on disarming and didn't use the key for fear of upsetting her) until this present little dummy spit.
Cheers
Jhonno
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8th January 2013, 06:04 PM
#6
Sorry Jhonno. The reason I replied with the details from my handbook is that you said in your original post that it blinks once on unlocking. That is what it is supposed to do, and does not indicate a flat battery. It is only when it blinks once on locking (not unlocking) that it indicates flat battery.
Regards,
John
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8th January 2013, 06:18 PM
#7
I thought R134a was brought in because it wasn't detrimental to the environment, or was it just ozone depletion on their mind, silly me, I keep forgetting, only one problem at a time.
Sort of suspected something was afoot when I learnt of the massive price hike of R134a. Don't know about the ADRs, not my worry anymore, you're right can't have something cheap, abundantly available and seems to do the job as well or better encroaching on their niche market.
Apologies for the Superquad instead of Superquag
Cheers Jhonno
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8th January 2013, 06:26 PM
#8
Thanks John guess I will have to pay more attention to the old axiom if all else fails read the instructions.
Cheers Jhonno
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8th January 2013, 07:12 PM
#9
Hi
Regarding the 17VT immobilizer there is no battery in the unit
I have completely removed the unit as the cost to repair was not
worth the trouble, also removed the central locking, now just lock
and un lock with the key
All the immobilizer dose is remove the power from the signal wire
to the starter solenoid
The vehicle 93RRC works perfectly with out it.
Mocky
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9th January 2013, 09:20 AM
#10
fob lock
Hi Jhonno,
My 93 classic displays the same symptoms as yours re the fob and locking proceedure, alarms etc...
Here is what I do. When I press the fob to unlock, 99 times out of 100 it relocks itself within a couple of seconds. If the door is opened before it relocks itself then the alarm will inevitably go off pretty soon
.
To get around this, stand next to the drivers door, hold your tongue slightly to the left and out a bit (that part is optional!) and press the remote fob once-you hear the doors unlock-then press it again. This will keep the doors unlocked and the alarm off.
Timing is important, if you leave the second clik too long it won't work but with a few goes at it you get the rhythm.
Mine has been working like this for well over a year now and it is second nature to me now.
Some interesting observations I have made that I think are related to this issue are:
1.Some times the unlock sequence works perfectly as it should-but generally only when the inside of the car is hot from being in the sun a few hours.
2.When the car relocks itself straight away, the lock on the passenger side front door stays locked all the time
3.Closely related to the last point, when the double cliking method is used the passenger side front door always remains locked
4.Generally the tailgate lock (which is part of the central locking system) stays locked using double clik BUT when the car unlocks with one clik the tail gate lock opens. Seems to be whatever the passenger front door does, the tailgate does the same.
Thoughts that I have about the root cause of the problem are that the problem lies possibly with an intermittent fault in either the tailgate lock or the passenger door lock and that the relocking issue is some sort of tell tale sign informing you of a problem (obviously there is a problem...) and perhaps the Land Rover technicians from 1993 simply forgot to write up the code in the hand book???
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