Originally Posted by
RaZz0R
Hey Grimace (Hes a Grim!) :)
No offense taken at all mate. Because you kinda spotted it.
Currently as it is - I guess you could call it a tour setup - however, with the way the fuel usage goes out it couldn't tour past 500km with out needing a fuel up. SO yes in one way touring is on the cards BUT.....
One should and must define what "serious" off road is to them and the use case.
Alot of my mates have pootrols and toyota cruisers. So their tour ability is awesome being lamp oil burners. Their off road ability is also good - a little better then my own to be honest.
Use case: eg, This past Xmas as per-normal we were up about the base of the Vic high country, did a few basic tracks, nothing to test my car thats for sure. Until we came across a link track, didn't go down it even tho I reckon I could have. We ended up at the base of it and a guy with a pootrol, sliders and diff lockers gives the link track ago - while I am told I wouldn't have a hope given the pootrol was sitting on 35" tires. After that we headed up to the Barkley river jeep track - where again the guys reckon I'd be having issues - even tho I was pretty sure I would be right.
SO - I want more setup so next time they say that **** I can laugh and walk the car up it - BUT - I also want better fuel, no STABLE fuel usage so I can start exploring more like the Simpson and maybe up in to QLD.
Ok given the above I would definitely class your intended use as a Tourer. I would also have to suggest that you probably would have been fine following the Nissan and Toyota vehicles. The main thing to remember is while you lack the strength of the two other makes, the classic makes up for it by having some actual design put into the suspension geometry. This is something non LR folk generally don't understand.
A classic will drive terrain with better balance then most, better clearance etc.
If you are confident in the vehicle you should give it a go, it's the best test and certainly helps to build your driving capabilities.
If it doesn't work out and you don't succeed it's not the end of the world, you learn from this and make changes to both vehicle and driving style to suit.
Totally agree - so if you review the current setup on page one - you will also note that she's booked in to ARB for a rear locker to be fitted in two weeks time.
The next thing is tires! The current ones I have are the Maxxis Buckshot - have been awesome but they are done. Looking at Mickey T's for the new set - and yes I had planned to get off set rims and the next size up on the 265/75/16's I have now... so I think thats the 33" :p I sux at converting tire size. The Koni heavy track shocks I have I was told (At the time) were the longest travel shock I could get for the rangie anyway - and a few have confirmed that. But I wouldn't mind comparing the travel to the Pro-comp ones listed in the QT packages.
Yeah I noticed the tyre upgrade was on the cards, I was just putting my opinion down to assure your selection.
I have run Buckshots before, and I loved the traction they provided, just unsure about the sidewall strength.
Tyres are very much a personal preference item, everyone has differing opinions. While I personally don't like Mickey T tyres, I don not think they are the worst choice. I have grown my opinion on tyres over many years, I have purchased and wasted a lot of coin on different tyres. I have grown to like the Maxxis brand, along with the cheaper Silverstone MT117s. But I think both these are not beneficial for your intended touring use, and a Mickey T or more importantly a BFG (km2) or Goodyear (duratrac) tyre would be better suited.
As for shocks, you can get 16" travel procomps to suit the range rover so the factory spec'd heavy track konis certainly are not the longest travel shocks you could fit to the rangie but they may well have been the best shock travel to suit the application at the time.
Ashcroft - how do they engage \ get active?? and the 3.5CWP means? Cost diff to the ARB setup?
Decent - ideas on what? ;) Cutting not an issue - altho I did consider as 2" body lift.
Ashcrofts are air operated just like the ARB. The 3.5 CWP is the best strength option. But given your touring application I would not bother with after market CW&P.
Cost wise, I actually think the Ashcroft would be cheaper. But obviously exchange rates and availability would determine thiis further.
Don't waste your time or $$ on a body lift it is simply not required. You can cut the guards to clear the tyres.
Awesome! Qt is the first place I have come across that has parts and kits for the rangie - can you recommend another place to look at??
Heaps of after market suppliers to peruse. I have enjoyed the RTE products, just found their customer service and product quality control to be poor.
Recently I have been very happy to see kits by Devon 4x4, but these are very expensive and personally I think the range rover classic suspension is good enough out of the box.
Pick an after market supplier of rear lower links (any supplier) and get some with a slight crank on them. Thus relieving the amount of stress to the chassis mount bush at ride height, and aiding in just a touch more articulation (assuming your shocks are not already max'd out).
So to be clear - you suggest removing the twin tanks where the stock fuel tank would normally sit - and replace with one big tank... do they carry more in total?? I am not sure of the reason to rip the entire system out - unless you mean to replace it with what Bee Uty mentioned?
No, I changed my mind. Originally I suggest ripping out all the gas and just fitting one big unleaded only long range tank. I suggested the above for a fairly serious off road vehicle, but now that I understand your intentions a little bit more I think sticking with the set up you currently have is fine. I certainly would not go adding large tanks thou. Another 40L sill tank to the opposing side would be a nice touring addition. thus giving you aproxx 120L of unleaded and 60L of gas.
That sounds ok - not sure if the Koni's could take them. What about that 3 link front end kit from QT?
Don't even bother. I have a RRC set up for what I would class as 'fairly serious off road' and I have not even considered such a product. Personally all of the 3 link 'kits' are a compromise, their strength in the rough stuff is debatable and on road under braking some of the kits are simply not even close to satisfactory.
LOL - no problems and thank you for taking the time to post ;)
