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Thread: wont start

  1. #1
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    wont start

    I have just finished rebuilding my 1990 classic 3.9 put new high comp. pistons, new big end and main bearings new liners block shaved and just put the bosch amplifier on and have a big fat spark but it wont go checked the timing 6 btd. put a compression tester hose in number 1 cyl. and turned it over by hand till it blew lots of bubbles then checked timing again still 6 btd
    tries to go but wont run plenty of fuel gas and petrol any Ideas?

  2. #2
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    My ute was always difficult to start until it got both a new starter and battery. now it starts instantly. Your battery and starter may be overcome by all that new found compression!

    Anyway, they are easy to flood and you should try pulling the fuel pump fuse to clear it, and try for a restart after its cleared.

  3. #3
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    wont start

    I have tried clearing all fuel ,But found good spark coming from the coil lead but a tiny spark or no spark to the spark plug leads. the car was running when I pulled it apart and the distributor wasn't touched untill it wont start after the rebuild

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by malcolmjeffries View Post
    I have tried clearing all fuel ,But found good spark coming from the coil lead but a tiny spark or no spark to the spark plug leads. the car was running when I pulled it apart and the distributor wasn't touched untill it wont start after the rebuild
    Your rotor button may have decided to burn through or your cap is damaged or full of moisture. You can use a XF Falcon rotor button (Bosch GB864) if you can't get a genuine Lucas one. Chinese/aftermarket ones are a waste of time.

    To test a rotor button, crank the engine with the cap off, hold the coil lead over the rotor button and see how strong the spark is to the rotor centre compared to engine metal. Use plastic pliers of course.

  5. #5
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    - Do you mean that the GB 864 is as good as or better than the 'genuine' LUCAS ?

    Or only suitable to get you going again...

    Never tried the chinese IGN components...and certainly not keen to try.

  6. #6
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    After years of working on these I have seen MANY non genuine rotor arms the cause of many a failure, Either genuine of the Bosch equiv suggested are the ONLY option IMO.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    To test a rotor button, crank the engine with the cap off, hold the coil lead over the rotor button and see how strong the spark is to the rotor centre compared to engine metal. Use plastic pliers of course.
    Could be what you`ve typed and what i`m reading are not the same thing .

    If a spark on the rotor , be a reason for no starting .

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLR View Post
    Could be what you`ve typed and what i`m reading are not the same thing .

    If a spark on the rotor , be a reason for no starting .
    Basically you should see a fine spark to the rotor if its good and a strong spark if its bad, ie burnt through.

    The GB864 is (or has been until now) a factory OEM quality replacement rotor actually made in a Bosch factory, not a funny foreign garage somewhere west of Kowloon. I would have no hesitation in fitting one, I actually prefer it as it is less that 1/2 the price of the Lucas and easier to get and a better design to boot.

  9. #9
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    [QUOTE=bee utey;1881563]Basically you should see a fine spark to the rotor if its good and a strong spark if its bad, ie burnt through.

    G`day ,

    so what you`re saying is that is that a rotor that is in good condition will show a spark but not as big as a rotor in bad condition ?

    Peter

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLR View Post
    G`day ,

    so what you`re saying is that is that a rotor that is in good condition will show a spark but not as big as a rotor in bad condition ?

    Peter


    YES!!!


    Like the touch of a feather compares with a hammer blow, you should see a fine (accent on fine) discharge to a metallic object insulated from the metal around it. High voltage isn't like low voltage DC, you are in effect charging a capacitor formed of the rotor button strip and the surrounding metal. Because it's in the open this charge leaks away quite rapidly so each coil firing will give a similar spark.

    You probably won't see it in broad daylight but the effect is there if you look for it.

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