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Thread: Rebuild a 3.5 a 3.9 or something else?

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by aRRon View Post
    Whenever I read these 3.9 liner stories the fear comes back. I read one not long ago that said 50k after a recondition if you're lucky, before a slipped liner will occur due to weakness in blocks, cracks and leaks behind the liner wall etc. So I'm right on 51k since a rebore and new pistons, bearings, valve gear etc inlcuding a new liner in No1 cylinder. The original liner got deeply scored by a piece of tin head gasket that failed. Hadn't slipped or suffered cracking/corrosion behind it. Now I'm sure a head asket has gone again after a mild overheat about six weeks ago (broken fan belt and gauge did not reach maximum before stopping - no loss of coolant). Gobs of cream under rocker covers, water in intake plenum, steam from exhaust.
    Heads off tomorrow! Expecting the worst.
    I read somewhere that the liners are marginal sometimes due to manufacturing techniques and tolerences of the parts and the ones that were measured up well went into the 4.6.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  2. #12
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    Fonfe,

    The little 3.5 is a beauty, the most reliable of all the Rover V8s IMO.
    Hi compression pistons, some port matching and careful camshaft and gearing selection makes this a good option still in my books.


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #13
    d@rk51d3 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Fonfe,

    The little 3.5 is a beauty, the most reliable of all the Rover V8s IMO.
    Hi compression pistons, some port matching and careful camshaft and gearing selection makes this a good option still in my books.


    JC
    Depends on the block though. I wouldn't waste time and money on the early, thin web/ lightweight bearing cap blocks.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by d@rk51d3 View Post
    Depends on the block though. I wouldn't waste time and money on the early, thin web/ lightweight bearing cap blocks.
    It's an 87 flapper Efi jobbie so block should be ok?

  5. #15
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    My preference would be a high compression 4.6 seasoned block fitted with top hat liners, a bit of head work and a high torque cam. Turners can supply exactly that ready to drop in. I'd add a Scorcher dissy too.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by d@rk51d3 View Post
    Depends on the block though. I wouldn't waste time and money on the early, thin web/ lightweight bearing cap blocks.
    Yes I should've clarified THAT, but as the OP has an EFI block I didn't bovver mentioning it
    I certainly wouldn't waste time with any block prior to 1985.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  7. #17
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    Same Position

    The motor in my '88 RRC is in a similar condition. Worn cam, noisy lifter and blowing smoke.

    If I buy a 3.5 (Flapper) motor from a Disco or RRC I'm guessing fitting the replacement motor should be straight forward? The Fuel Lines, Throttle linkage, exhaust manifolds, etc should all line up and connect in the same way?

    Is that also true if I buy a 3.9 motor?

    Lastly if I was lucky enough to find a 4.6 then I think I need to do more work? Will the exhaust system from my 3.5 bolt up or are mods required there?

    Almost forgot. My 3.5 is dual fuel. A cheap mixer system plumbed in before the flapper. With a 'new' 3.5 or 3.9 motor am I Okay to keep the old flapper and connect to the new plenum on the replacement motor?

    Paul
    Last edited by lidvii; 8th January 2016 at 07:48 AM. Reason: LPG

  8. #18
    Join Date
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    Regardless of whichever (later) motor you fit to your vehicle you will need to transfer the inlet manifold and injectors off your current engine to your replacement engine, not exactly a difficult job. That is so all your wires and EFI computer work as before, the later engines use different systems. No Disco used a flapper based EFI. You could upgrade the whole EFI system to a later one but that involves some wiring challenges.

    The exhaust outlets on the heads are exactly the same for all the different engines but there are differences in the equipment bolted to the front and bottom of the engine block. Once again, you will probably have to transfer some parts off your engine to make it work. This has been done many times so the information for whatever donor engine you find is easily searchable.


    Quote Originally Posted by lidvii View Post
    The motor in my '88 RRC is in a similar condition. Worn cam, noisy lifter and blowing smoke.

    If I buy a 3.5 (Flapper) motor from a Disco or RRC I'm guessing fitting the replacement motor should be straight forward? The Fuel Lines, Throttle linkage, exhaust manifolds, etc should all line up and connect in the same way?

    Is that also true if I buy a 3.9 motor?

    Lastly if I was lucky enough to find a 4.6 then I think I need to do more work? Will the exhaust system from my 3.5 bolt up or are mods required there?

    Almost forgot. My 3.5 is dual fuel. A cheap mixer system plumbed in before the flapper. With a 'new' 3.5 or 3.9 motor am I Okay to keep the old flapper and connect to the new plenum on the replacement motor?

    Paul

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