Wet your finger, will look smooth and won't stick to all your digits! (Plumbers trick)
Hi guys,
My rear window seals have dried out and cracked so much they let water into the boot every time it rains, so I decided to fix the issue.
First off I cut off all the old rubber from around the outside of the glass and put a small bead of sikaflex 255+ to seal/hold the glass in place.
I then taped up the glass and body work where I didn't want the sikaflex to go. I then build up the 'seal'
I left this to dry a fair malleable but not tacky.
I then put a final layer of sikaflex down and used my finger to smooth out the sikaflex to look like a seal.
unfortunately I ran out of sikaflex half way through the job, so some of it looks dodgy as it had bean to set before I got back with another tube.
From a distance its looks good, up close some of it is a bit dodgy, but I might give it another crack this weekend. but on the plus side it now sealed (passenger side only driver side is this weekends job)
where it went dodgy cause it had set...
still trying to get the sikaflex off my hands.
if anyones got any tips for making the sikaflex look smoother let me know before I give the other side a crack.
thanks
Wet your finger, will look smooth and won't stick to all your digits! (Plumbers trick)
I thought & tried that but it seemed to make it tackier maybe its had cured too much by then. I'll have to do some more test runs
Depends on the base product. For silicon and sika flex type sealants, you can get away with spit if doing a very small amount (in a pinch) most contract caulkers use soapy water in a spray bottle, but mineral turps works best. Just rememeber once you have whiped over it you with any of these you cant lay up more until dry as it wont bond properly. Mineral turps will "wash away" as you whipe so dont use too much. You can use water on acrylic based products like "no more gaps" These mostly are not proper sealers though.
Funny that - I did exactly the same thing a couple of years ago on my Rangie, which is the same colour as yours, with the same interior and the same rear bumper. One of the windows was actually rattling around! Anyway, I wear rubber gloves when I work with this stuff, and I used something like a pop stick to smooth it out. Next time I'll make a proper plastic or wooden tool. And if you don't know already, those plastic vents next to the window can let in a lot of water and will rust out that whole area underneath. I just covered mine up.
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
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