Thread: dizzie springs

FIX THAT RETAINER!!!

See the dissy fix thread referenced below.

It can only slot down into two positions

Not true, It can go in any position so long as you rotate the oil pump shaft to the correct position before you push down the dissy.

Originally Posted by bee utey

FIX THAT RETAINER!!!

See the dissy fix thread referenced below.



Not true, It can go in any position so long as you rotate the oil pump shaft to the correct position before you push down the dissy.

Yeah, I'm assuming the oil pump drive won't move. No big drama either way Certainly I can keep myself entertained for hours either way

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Yeah, I'm assuming the oil pump drive won't move.

Assumptions don't fix anything. Long nose pliers or a bit of steel tubing partially flattened at one end to move the oil pump. Hand force only. It's oil not cement your pump has to handle.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Assumptions don't fix anything. Long nose pliers or a bit of steel tubing partially flattened at one end to move the oil pump. Hand force only. It's oil not cement your pump has to handle.

Yeah I know that... I've worked on cars with the same setup in the past (ie: oil pump driven from the bottom of the dizzie).

Oh well, if you can't laugh at yourself, who can you laugh at. I guess I'd be seriously p!$$ed with myself if I didn't have other cars to drive... I haven't left the drivers door open twice now overnight ('cos it's dark when I've been looking at it) and flattened the battery twice either

Anyone need some help working on there cars .... I'm well experienced at doing everything the wrong way 15times before I get it right

seeya,
Shane L.

gee's that was bloody easy That's a ripper of a tip using hose to check for it's being on compression. I usually shove a finger of the plug hole or pull the rocker cover and see if the valves are rocking. I'll be buggered if I could pick this one though. I found a length of fuel line fits perfectly into the plug hole (yep, it's now put aside for that purpose on all cars). And I was on the exhaust stroke .. I could have sworn it was compression given my highly accurate "finger over the plug hole" check

I sure do have this down to a fine art. It only took 10minutes to whip the dizzie out, pull it apart, re-assemble those springs, drop in back in, lift the front wheel, chuck it into 5th to roll the motor over ............. sigh ... yes the diff lock is in .... it rolls straight off the jack. ok.... unplug coil, spin engine over, cross fingers the diff lock has dropped out. Find the dizzie has dropped in, in the exact position by sheer chance Lined up the nearest tooth on the chopper wheel .... And I'll be damned if it didn't roar to life first grunt of the starter ... Which was entirely unexpected... so I did a mad dash for the drivers seat to make sure the oil light was out (yep it was) and were all sweet.

I'll move it into the shed and set the timing with a light now. I reckon it's way over advanced. It's really revvy unlike before. It is however entirely possible the advance weights weren't assembled correctly or seized before I went and tore the advance springs off

What's a good timing setting for the 3.5 high compression carby motor. It runs on 98octane (All my cars HATE 91, so I don't bother using it and nowhere sells 95 any longer).

I sure they got the Citroen engineers to locate that bloody dizzie bolt and bracket though. It sure it painful to get at. This must be the first car I've owned .... well ever, that hasn't had a moron at it before I got it. The sparkplugs were barely nipped down (ie: perfect for an alloy engine)... Everything I've touched so far is nicely tightened, greased and lubricated... rather than %#@%ed with, trashed and butchered by 1/2 dozen different people (sadly usually marque specialists ).. It sure is a nice change.

seeya,
Shane L.

Glad to hear you finally got there. Nothing like a bit of practice to make it look easy....

The dissy hold down bolt is easier to get to if you undo the alternator tensioner bar at the alternator and swing it up out of the way. The alternator shouldn't even move if the lower bolts are tight enough. Timing around 5-6 degrees BTDC should work well on a high comp motor.

Sounds good to me ... I just set it by the light to the white mark painted on the pulley ... Then climbed under and found the white mark is painted at zero degree's after a bit of cleaning (why would anyone mark zero ?) So it looks like I still need to set it back to minus 6degrees I guess .... I'll scratch that white paint off and paint a white line at the right place.

strangly with it a zero, if you give the motor a rev, it holds the revs at about 1500rpm and doesn't want to drop the idle back down.

I think both carbies to do with a kit thrown through them myself. I reckon there is vacuum leaks past the internal seals in them (eg: giving either of the dashpots on the carbies a pump brings the idle straight back down 800rpm).

seeya,
Shane L.

Hmmm,

it's the vacuum advance, now it works I can't get the idle low enough. It wants to idle at 1500 -> 1800rpm. If I unplug the advance it drops back to 800....

I thought I'd drive it to work today and just sneak up the timing to the point where it runs the nicest. I look up to see my wife bashing on a house window as I'm driving down the drive .................. The old V8 in the Rangie is a "touch" noisy, so I jump out and go over to see what she wants ..... "WHAT ARE YOU DRIVING THAT HEAP OF **** FOR ..... IT SOUNDS SICK FROM HERE........... Don't expect me to come rescue you AGAIN"

Anyway, I assured her the old Rangie would be fine ... ( ie: ..... I hope it doesn't bloody stop now, it's gonna be a **** day for walking home ).

Any suggestions on high to bring the idle back down to about 800rpm ?

seeya,
Shane L.