Thread: recommisioning LSE EAS - WIP questions

You have my sympathy... even before you start.

Yes, fitting is 'generic', but if/when you buy more of them, don't buy el-cheapo. All hoses and fittings are 6mm, metric size, NOT Imperial 1/4" Your local compressed air specialist will become a friend...

It's generally held that the rear bladders can be used on the front. Folk have fitted them in the field, so you only need ONE spare bladder.
The 'genuine' ones shorten with age, so this is not a bad thing. The aluminium mountings are differant Front to Rear. You pic is of a FRONT. Fitting is a Push-on, for 6mm OD hose held and sealed by an O ring.

Do you know the condition of the pump? Air filter? Dryer? Valves in the Valve Body ? Does the ECU and valve driver work ? Wheel height sensors ???

Your first job should be a 'self-rescue' valve setup. This consists of a Schrader (tyre) valve and an in-line tap. A few bits of hose and fittings completes the unit. You need four, one for each bag/wheel.

The beauty of this arrangement is that you can isolate each bag from the system, and manually inflate to whatever height you want. A cheapie pump from SuperC**** can be used.
- Most importantly, it allows you to take off or work on the rest of the EAS whilst still driving the car.

The 'WOW' factor is worth the pain that lies before you...

James in Gosnells, '95 Vogue SE (100") with working EAS...

Here's a pic of mine... I went for the ARNOTTS complete bag/metalwork units.

No, I did'nt use enough sealant around the threads... Windex is as good as anything else for finding leaks.

The original pipe to the bag can be seen on the left, now it's in a joiner which takes it around the front where the Schraeder valve and tap live. Then the pipe returns into the air-spring. - Into the leaky fitting....

Second pic is the car at... 'Go-Kart Height' -Takes less than overnight to automatically do this, but only on one side.

I'd be ringing and checking that ab001can be used in the front, as they will fold over further down than the bottom of the mount. Don't know if you'll be fussed by it, but putting a rear bag on the front will make the spring rate at the front slightly softer than factory, and at hwy height you could get a really 'dumpy' spring as it rolls down onto the flared bit of the bottom piston.

Yes, superquag is on the money, avoid the platic and tin collets.

Have you got any software for it? You'll need it.

Good on you for reverting it, I've had eas for 8 years now and it's amazing.

Originally Posted by benji

I'd be ringing and checking that ab001can be used in the front, as they will fold over further down than the bottom of the mount. Don't know if you'll be fussed by it, but putting a rear bag on the front will make the spring rate at the front slightly softer than factory, and at hwy height you could get a really 'dumpy' spring as it rolls down onto the flared bit of the bottom piston.

All the info and pics you want are here: School me on EAS Airbag Replacement?

Yes the rears work fine on the front. It's ~10mm difference in bag length which means they roll ~5mm further down the cones than intended.

Thread on getting EASunlocksuite to work here: Anyone running EAS Unlock Suite on a Classic?

In a nutshell, the cable schematic had a wrong resistor value which I was able to fix and get it working. I'm not sure if the official schematics have been updated or not.

thanks for the replies. struggling to get off first base at the moment. thought i would start at the compressor and work my way outwards if that makes sense.

in this process of recommissioning i am assuming i will have to put a kit through the valve block and compressor.

so to start,. unclipped ecu connector under passenger seat and shorted pins 1 to 8 just with the beyond optimistic expectation i'd hear the compressor kick in! naive i know. nothing happened. so check pin 1 and there are no volts even with the ignition on. have got a disco/rr classic rave cd back home but will probably get another one as likely won't be home for few months.

however, in the here and now would at least like to get off the starting line with some power to pin 1.

any pointers? had the eas disable switch under driver seat in both positions too.

thanks.

The diagnostic lead under the drivers seat needs the cap on for the system to function.

Only 10mm... I though 2.5 inches was the difference, as that is what the new bladders measure - though they're different in operation, I haven't measured used ones.

The innhibit switch needs to be off also.
I bought my lead off mr Storey, so couldn't tell you the resistor value im sorry. I think they're on ebay though, or they were a few months ago.

Originally Posted by benji

Only 10mm... I though 2.5 inches was the difference, as that is what the new bladders measure - though they're different in operation, I haven't measured used ones.

The innhibit switch needs to be off also.
I bought my lead off mr Storey, so couldn't tell you the resistor value im sorry. I think they're on ebay though, or they were a few months ago.

Yes 10mm between new front and new rear bags. It's such a small difference you'd wonder why they bother. Old ones shrink in length as they swell in diameter. As my pictures show:

Interestingly the stock EAS system only has ~160mm of stroke. I want more and one day I'll find a good way to get it. Longer airbags appear easy, it's the shocks I need to hunt down.

I couldn't find any RRC leads on ebay or through Mr Storey so I built one to his schematic. I emailled him the change in resistor with a donation when I was done.