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Thread: Should I change this or give it a buff and dust?

  1. #1
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    Should I change this or give it a buff and dust?

    The temperature gauge has been reading low since I bought the '75 2 door.

    On investigation...
    Wadaya rekun, is is stuffed or should it buff up? ;-)




    Actually turned into a l o n g day.

    Tried to drain the radiator at the drain plug, down the bottom of the left side, it had been turned from a brass hex into a brass circular jobbie.
    It was so tight, it ended up turning itself out of the radiator, including the soldered,threaded sleeve.

    Grouse, one cream crackered radiator. Hope I can have it repaired, the bung will not come out. Someone certainly tried hard in the past, with the wrong spanner.
    It seems to be a 5/16"BSF or 1/4" Whitworth, not AF or Metric.

    As an aside, what's the easiest way to capture the coolant, the bung outlet is not quite convenient and I would've thought a tap with an outlet hose to be a much saner solution. But I digress.

    As luck would have it, the one worthwhile spare I received with the car was a radiator, from a 1980 air cond. equipped car. It had a sticker on it saying rebuilt by Natra. The car had been off the road 10 years when I salvaged the radiator.
    After cleaning, testing under pressurised heated water on the roof of the dog house, then painting satin black, it looked like my troubles should be over.

    The thermostat outlet housing didn't look "too" bad, some pitting after being cleaned off.

    I put it all together, fresh coolant, again, then started her up.
    Bugger, there was a leak, coming out from the back of the motor.
    !! ahh, the thermostat or housing perhaps became slightly out of line, I could see water dripping from from the bottom of the housing and traveling along the valley over and spilling out down the back of the bell housing.

    So I took off the thermostat housing, made a new gasket from suitable material and tried again. Bugger. Same leak. Couldn't be the housing to inlet manifold face, having made a new gasket and for good measure checked the sealing surfaces with bearing blue.

    If you've followed this far, you've probably guessed the corrosion from the radiator inlet hose connection at the outlet was the culprit. I used some epoxy and changed the position of the hose clamp.
    Fortunately this has solved the problem and now the temperature gauge reads just below the centre range of the gauge.
    A quality laser thermometer confirmed the efficiency of the system, 94C at the top inlet and 72C at the bottom outlet of the radiator. This was after a 6km steep, steady climb.

    My new speedo and a few other bits are a ripper, but that's another story.

    Cheers,
    Richard

  2. #2
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    Bin the thermostat, but with that much crud on it I'd be concerned about any radiator that had been running with the same coolant.

    For capturing coolant before breaking up the coolant chain, I've found that nothing beats a siphon hose through the filler cap. It drops all the way down into the side tank and allows 80% of the coolant to be captured in bottles without spilling a drop. It all you need to do is get to the thermostat it's the best way. If more than that, remove as much coolant as you can with the hose and then drop the bottom hose off the radiator.

  3. #3
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    Bin it.... would need way too much scraping/sanding/compounding before you get to buffing.....

    Seriously, I'd be looking sideways at your heater matrix, along with the rest of the pipework etc....

  4. #4
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    To hold up a new thermostat while you're fiddling with the bolts nothing beats a couple of drops of superglue against the housing recess. A smear of Master Gasket or similar on both sides of the gasket deals with imperfections in the housing face.

  5. #5
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    Came up wonders!

    Gave it a light buff, don't think it would handle a serious one ;-)




    Yes, I'm looking at other aspects of the system. At least the heater works, which shows there is still flow.
    I didn't like what I saw and will be putting some stocking over the inlet to see what it captures in the future.

    I used Loctite#515 initially, then when I saw the first leak ran the outlet on a surface plate with 600 wet and then a known flat steel piece with the #600 across the inlet manifold face, all good there. Yes, it's probably overkill, but doing the same job twice annoys me.

    At least the engine doesn't show any signs of having been overheated.

    Cheers,
    Richard

  6. #6
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    Did you have any troubles finding a thermostat. From memory they had to order in a 78degree high flow thermstat when I replaced the one here.

    You did rod the replacement radiator out ... Not just flush it right

    I find the range rover heater so effective, after 5minutes I'm turning it down/off. Even in the middle of winter!

    seeya,
    Shane L.

  7. #7
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    ...My heater is disconnected due to PO's lack of care (or intelligence?) but I have'nt missed it..

    Enough heat comes up through the firewall and floor to keep the inside warm !

  8. #8
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    No trouble finding a replacement thermostat, bought an 82 degree jobbie and gasket from a sponsor of this site.

    Did not rod the replacement radiator, after close inspection and straightening of a few fins, pressure and flow testing, it was fitted.
    Now with the new temperature gauge the needle sits a little under halfway, reaching that point in only a few minutes.
    After idling the engine for 25 minutes on a warm day, the needle didn't move further to the right by its own width, the radiator is working effectively.
    Temperature difference between inlet and outlet is 24 degrees, with no hot spots in between, at optimal engine operating temperature.

    I've since separated the errant bung from its threaded flange and will solder in place, keeping that radiator as a spare, after some straightening out...

    Fortuitous, as the original a near miss in the past, not apparent with the shroud in place!
    Perhaps it was serendipity, or the car sending a message.




    The complete system will be flushed over the coming weeks, as both time and funds coincide.
    Last edited by jackafrica; 4th November 2013 at 04:28 PM. Reason: clarity

  9. #9
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    Update, if anyone wanted to know.

    The perforated thermostat still opened, and closed at very close to the designated temperature; amazing.

    The radiator has now has all those fins straightened and will have it rodded. it is definitely dirty inside.

    The system in the car is being flushed this week and new coolant.
    works a treat so far.


    Cheers,
    Richard

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackafrica View Post
    The perforated thermostat still opened, and closed at very close to the designated temperature; amazing.

    The radiator has now has all those fins straightened and will have it rodded. it is definitely dirty inside.

    The system in the car is being flushed this week and new coolant.
    works a treat so far.


    Cheers,
    Richard
    Yeah you have to rod them out, flushing does nothing except make you nice and wet and waste your time. I've pulled apart a couple of DS heater matrixes and radiators. They get so blocked you can't even feed a ground down hacksaw blade through the tubes, you split and puncture the tubes before you clear the deposits from them The amount of crap you get out of them is incredible! The deposits can be rock hard crystallised crap ... harder and tougher than the brass core.

    seeya,
    shane L.

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