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Thread: Will a '83 model dizzy be a drop in fit for a '75?

  1. #1
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    Will a '83 model dizzy be a drop in fit for a '75?

    Looks like trying to find a correct replacement vacuum advance unit in good nick is a little tough for the 1975 2 door.
    The rest of the '75 distributor is worn.

    I have a 1983 distributor with a Crane XR700 box attached which is in lovely condition and has a working vacuum advance.

    Will this be a drop in fit for the 1975?
    If it is a drop in fit, are there any tips for the replacement or pitfalls for the unwary?

    Thanks in advance.

    Cheers,
    Richard

  2. #2
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    The oil pump drive changed somewhere in between. You may need to swap the drive cogs over but study the later dissy carefully to see that you retain the oil pump drive. Failing that fit the later oil pump gear and short drive shaft that matches the 83 dissy. You need a 3/16" pin punch to drive out the roll pin. Be careful how you support the dissy while driving out the pin. Not too hard.

  3. #3
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    Changing the Oil Pump Dist. Drive, when did the factory do it?

    Today I drove down to visit DiscoPete who has a 1977 2 Door.
    Pete kindly removed the distributor for comparison, finding the same drive as the (actually) 1982 model intended donor.

    Now, if someone could answer, when did the changeover of the oil pump drive gear on the end of the distributor occur? Hopefully before the SuffixD 1975.
    My engine is a 356 series, original to the car.

    Pete's pretty sure the '77 is original (sure looks to be), it even has what is supposed to be the earlier of the vacuum advance units, which is non-operable.
    The 1982 distributor is the same body casting number, but does that mean anything?

    Here are some images showing the 1977 and the 1982 distributor.
    For all intents and purpose, they're the same.

    Note the early vacuum advance unit. Disregard the Crane pointless conversion on the 1982.



    Oil pump drive bases the same.


    From the top they look similar, apart from the slotted screw in the top of the 1977.



    Will the '75 be the same? I'd just like to know before removing the distributor from the 1975.

    Thanks again.

    Cheers,
    Richard

  4. #4
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    I am firmly convinced that it would have taken you less time to remove your '75 distributor and check it, than the time it took you to take the photos and put up a post about it!

  5. #5
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    Perhaps so.
    However, my experience and familiarity with RR is not quite 4 weeks old.
    Perhaps I should've known better without realising. No biggie.

    Maybe, this information will assist another novice in the future.

    Removed the '75 distributor, it had a different oil pump drive at the base, no drop straight in. Doesn't fit at all. The difference is the base of the distributor shaft.

    The change between the drive types can be narrowed down from between 1975 and 1977.

    Back to the hunt for a working vacuum advance. Perhaps a new one.
    Then the farnarkling with the disassembly of the top plate to attach the unit.

    Unless I could use the vacuum advance unit from the later distributor, which does work. Anyone know?


    Cheers,
    Richard

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackafrica View Post
    Perhaps so.
    However, my experience and familiarity with RR is not quite 4 weeks old.
    Perhaps I should've known better without realising. No biggie.

    Maybe, this information will assist another novice in the future.

    Removed the '75 distributor, it had a different oil pump drive at the base, no drop straight in. Doesn't fit at all. The difference is the base of the distributor shaft.

    The change between the drive types can be narrowed down from between 1975 and 1977.

    Back to the hunt for a working vacuum advance. Perhaps a new one.
    Then the farnarkling with the disassembly of the top plate to attach the unit.

    Unless I could use the vacuum advance unit from the later distributor, which does work. Anyone know?


    Cheers,
    Richard
    Why don't you just whip it out and check I'm sure you can get it all to work. The later dizzie is pretty simple ( don't ask me how I know ). I'm sure if you dismantle both, you'll be able to assemble something out of the two of them that works (infact I'd just use the vacuum advance and crane unit in yours .... even if I had to drill different mounting holes for the advance unit in the dizzie body).

    seeya,
    Shane L.

  7. #7
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    POWERSPARK RANGE : Electronic Ignition, Home of the Powerspark electronic ignition and electronic distributor

    Check out this place. This is where i purchased my replacement dizzy from. They also sell the vac advance for a reasonable price.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    POWERSPARK RANGE : Electronic Ignition, Home of the Powerspark electronic ignition and electronic distributor

    Check out this place. This is where i purchased my replacement dizzy from. They also sell the vac advance for a reasonable price.
    Thanks for the link and trying to help. I looked at their Lucas vacuum advance units, but not quite the same as the early Range Rover one. The linkage arm appears different.

    I've ordered a correct one according to part number from another mob in the UK and it will arrive in due course, hopefully correcting the problem with the advance.

    Cheers,
    Richard

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Why don't you just whip it out and check I'm sure you can get it all to work. The later dizzie is pretty simple ( don't ask me how I know ). I'm sure if you dismantle both, you'll be able to assemble something out of the two of them that works (infact I'd just use the vacuum advance and crane unit in yours .... even if I had to drill different mounting holes for the advance unit in the dizzie body).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Shane, the challenge is in the oil pump drive gear between the two units. The difference is the shaft and the slot, as well as the depth of the oil pump gears, early 22.5mm v late 27mm.
    In short, they don't fit.
    My 1975 is NOT the same drive as the 1977, nor interchangeable, as I've worked out.
    It has been suggested that perhaps pressing the gear off the shaft I need for the later drive might work. Could also involve machining the oil pump gear drive shaft.
    Only trying to replace a non working vacuum advance unit, not re-invent the wheel and build a car around it ;-)

    Whilst you might drill into the original body, I won't.
    Like my stuff as original as I can where possible. I'm probably deluded by the notion that these early 2 doors, before 1979 are worth saving in their original state.
    Certainly the year or suffix specific parts for them are difficult to locate if they weren't used on something else. But I digress in the dream bubble.

    The advance plates and points mounting plates are also different between the two units, even though the bodies share the same casting number. They have different model numbers, for a number of reasons. The linkage arm on both units is also different.

    I don't live only a few minutes from a choice of parts sellers and people who salvage Range Rover parts.
    There aren't any people wrecking 1975 model 2 doors that I've been able to find, anywhere. Locally (50ks distant), there is but one bloke and he's difficult/quirky most times.
    I've already driven 130ks today looking for a new or decent oil pump gear.

    Will stick with what I have, replacing the vacuum advance unit with the correct one.

    Cheers,
    Richard
    Last edited by jackafrica; 17th November 2013 at 07:44 AM. Reason: not goin' crook at yer Shane, you know me.

  10. #10
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    Taking this a step further

    Does this work?

    1975 Suffix D Early oil pump gears and drive currently fitted.

    Change the oil pump gears and replace with one of the high volume kits for the later engine. In addition, use the bottom plate from a later (up to 1985) oil pump.
    Then change the main oil pump distributor gear and shaft for one with the later top to mate with the drive from the later distributor.

    Can I see from here the best of both worlds (better oil volume and spark) happening without changing the original look, or taking it too far from simple reversal?

    I look forward to hearing the experience of others.

    Cheers,
    Richard

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