Thread: The best Car Audio/Media in a Range Rover Classic

Originally Posted by superquag

Up-market name for our cell-blocks...



Jazzman and Steve F must be...old, to know the truth behind Watts RMS and 'Music Power' ...

- and NO, to all those who ask... it's Secret Old Bloke's Business! - Just trust us .

Anyway, if you're over 50... any extra high frequencies will help make up for age-related hearing loss !

I didn't think 30 was old until now

Originally Posted by superquag

Now that's an idea... #2 son reckons my sub isn't working... not that you'd really notice with Enya, madrigals or choral music.... unlike the boom-Tissh noise he favours...

I've got a little portable oscilloscope.. may as well see if it is getting signal in/out.

Speakers are good, standard head unit easy to operate... but totally unsatisfactory AM radio. FM isn't much better...

Still have'nt found a car radio as good as our old EJ Holden, "Air Chief" push-button the old fashioned variable inductor tuning. - Could pull in a local (up to 100km) AM station clear-as... Or interstate on a good night. Amazing what good audio came out of a 5x7 oval speaker on top of the dash, driven by a single-ended AD 149.

The Good Old Days...

'95 Classic Vogue SE, softdash, with working Air Suspension...and pathetic AM radio...

Try Kenwood radios. They have very good radio reception, on FM anyway, i assume AM as well.

I upgraded my head unit, speakers and added an amp last year. Best thing since getting the aircon fixed.
Head unit is an Alpine with RCA output leads to the Focal amp.
Remove the factory head unit and bash the transmission tunnel down (small bar or large hammer) to give enough room behind the head unit for RCA leads to fit without excess squashing. (There is plenty of room between the tunnel and the transmission).
I mounted the Amplifier on a cargo barrier in the back. Run power down one side of the Rangie, and the speaker wires down the other side, to stop electrical interference. Where power and speaker wires need to cross each other, try to do it at a 90 degree angle.
Speakers are 6.5 inch Focal splits. Mounted to bottom of door card with home made plastic spacer rings screwed to the metal door inner (stops vibrations and rattles) Carved foam out of the door card to fit over the spacer rings. Speakers screwed through door card to plastic spacers. Tweeters placed flush above on carpeted section of the door card (carve a hole for a snug flush fit and hot glue) Whole door inner and outer covered in Dynamat and closed cell foam. Rear speakers are disconnected and not necessary. 10" Subwoofer in custom box where the spare used to be (fits nicely beside drawers).
The sound quality is great. Any tuning of tweeters or sub can be done roughly with the crossovers and fine tuned with the head unit.
All up about $1500.00 for everything doing it yourself. Well worth it if you love your music. Good quality sound that rocks when you want it to.
the whole interior has been covered with pieces of Dynamat and closed cell foam (sleeping mats on special). Very little road noise .

Originally Posted by Paul Ziebarth

I upgraded my head unit, speakers and added an amp last year. Best thing since getting the aircon fixed.
Head unit is an Alpine with RCA output leads to the Focal amp.
Remove the factory head unit and bash the transmission tunnel down (small bar or large hammer) to give enough room behind the head unit for RCA leads to fit without excess squashing. (There is plenty of room between the tunnel and the transmission).
I mounted the Amplifier on a cargo barrier in the back. Run power down one side of the Rangie, and the speaker wires down the other side, to stop electrical interference. Where power and speaker wires need to cross each other, try to do it at a 90 degree angle.
Speakers are 6.5 inch Focal splits. Mounted to bottom of door card with home made plastic spacer rings screwed to the metal door inner (stops vibrations and rattles) Carved foam out of the door card to fit over the spacer rings. Speakers screwed through door card to plastic spacers. Tweeters placed flush above on carpeted section of the door card (carve a hole for a snug flush fit and hot glue) Whole door inner and outer covered in Dynamat and closed cell foam. Rear speakers are disconnected and not necessary. 10" Subwoofer in custom box where the spare used to be (fits nicely beside drawers).
The sound quality is great. Any tuning of tweeters or sub can be done roughly with the crossovers and fine tuned with the head unit.
All up about $1500.00 for everything doing it yourself. Well worth it if you love your music. Good quality sound that rocks when you want it to.
the whole interior has been covered with pieces of Dynamat and closed cell foam (sleeping mats on special). Very little road noise .

Sounds like a great sounding system and well thought out, any chance of some pics of the custom bits? :thumbup:

Originally Posted by Paul Ziebarth

I upgraded my head unit, speakers and added an amp last year. Best thing since getting the aircon fixed.
Head unit is an Alpine with RCA output leads to the Focal amp.
Remove the factory head unit and bash the transmission tunnel down (small bar or large hammer) to give enough room behind the head unit for RCA leads to fit without excess squashing. (There is plenty of room between the tunnel and the transmission).
I mounted the Amplifier on a cargo barrier in the back. Run power down one side of the Rangie, and the speaker wires down the other side, to stop electrical interference. Where power and speaker wires need to cross each other, try to do it at a 90 degree angle.
Speakers are 6.5 inch Focal splits. Mounted to bottom of door card with home made plastic spacer rings screwed to the metal door inner (stops vibrations and rattles) Carved foam out of the door card to fit over the spacer rings. Speakers screwed through door card to plastic spacers. Tweeters placed flush above on carpeted section of the door card (carve a hole for a snug flush fit and hot glue) Whole door inner and outer covered in Dynamat and closed cell foam. Rear speakers are disconnected and not necessary. 10" Subwoofer in custom box where the spare used to be (fits nicely beside drawers).
The sound quality is great. Any tuning of tweeters or sub can be done roughly with the crossovers and fine tuned with the head unit.
All up about $1500.00 for everything doing it yourself. Well worth it if you love your music. Good quality sound that rocks when you want it to.
the whole interior has been covered with pieces of Dynamat and closed cell foam (sleeping mats on special). Very little road noise .

Sounds like you put a bit of effort into this. Well done. Dynamat is for those who REALLY love their music as it is expensive and a car is no the most acoustically suitable place for music, hence the need for dynamat in the first place.

How much do you think this system would have cost you minus the Dynamat and foam?

Has anyone replaced a Eurovox 9280R head unit with the amp and sub in a soft dash before? I knew the wiring was.... different. But after just getting the factory head unit out of the dash WITHOUT breaking the centre fascia, I am a bit stumped. After the stacker stopped working I've only got 2 FM stations to listen to so I bought a Pioneer bluetooth multimedia headunit to put in with no CD player, and the difference in wiring is frightening. Pioneer is obviously extremely simple.

The Pioneer also has a signal wire that has to go to the booster box for the glass antenna, up in the roof, without having to take the headlining out I was hoping the wire from the booster was already inside the dash somewhere.

Any help with a wiring diagram or pin printout of the Eurovox 9280R would be highly appreciated. The speaker wires are easy to find on the Eurovox plug but there is a orange, grey, pink, red and earth in the middle of the plug which is where I think I will get stuck. Someone has had a go at doing something to the headunit wiring before, there are a few crimped wires running off down the left side of the dash.

I can get photos if it will help anyone.

I've purchased a Sony MEX XB100BT CD head unit for my RRC. This comes with stated 100W per channel rather than more typical 50, so should minimize requirement for a separate power amp. Front speaker for doors, tossing up the choice is huge but will think it will be Alphine/Focal etc in 6.5" splits, into front doors. For sub, been looking at integrated smaller units to maybe fit under front seat, as my car has zero under there unlike later models For rears, am actually going to try some Bose powered desktop units (I own them so why not?) we have run power there and RCA leads. And yes there is Dynamat extreme/Dynapad etc going all over the place. To help when we open the exhaust dump pipe

Following up from before, I've finished installing a Pioneer MVH-295BT Bluetooth/USB/Aux headunit in my soft dash. The factory sub and amp are not connected and I believe it isn't worth finding a way to connect them to the new headunit. The Pioneer headunit has a 2 ohm RCA out so once I work out what sub and amplifier I will get I will post that in here too, with some photos of anything interesting.

Currently I've got the Pioneer MVH-295BT headunit with Pioneer TS-C171PRS 6.5" component speakers in the front doors and crossovers using the factory A pillar tweeters and some Pioneer TS-G1045R 4" speakers in the roof. In total that's only a $240ish stereo that has Bluetooth calling, Bluetooth streaming, USB, Auxiliary input and sounds much better than the factory stereo did. I'll make a box to suit whichever sub I get and mount it and the amp in the factory subwoofer location. I'll also replace the tweeters and roof speakers.

Until then I now need to find and remedy all of the places the front door trims and internals are vibrating as the old component speakers are loving some extra juice.

This colour coding was completely accurate for the factory headunit I removed, may help some.