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Thread: Brake pedal height

  1. #1
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    Brake pedal height

    Hi Guys,

    the brake pedal on my '85 Rangie engages at about 50% of it's travel. They work well and it pulls up straight..... But it still gives you a fright if you haven't driven it for a while. Is there any adjustments possible? Eg: if it had rear drums, adjusting the shoes out to just touch the drum would lift the pedal up considerably.

    It doesn't pump up higher at all either, so it's not air!

    seeya,
    Shane L.

  2. #2
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    Got any pad left?

  3. #3
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    I'd say your pads and/or rotors are worn. What is happening is when you put your foot on the brake pedal you are tacking up the "slack" before engaging the brake pads with the rotor.

    The adjustment is new brakes.

  4. #4
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    I'll have a look. Discs aren't like drums though. There isn't a spring to return the pads. The pistons will press out taking up the pad wear, and stay put. Do Rangie brake calipers pull the pistons back in mechanically I haven't struck that before on any disc braked car ie: pad and rotor wear should not effect pedal height with 4 wheel disc brakes.

    With drums you adjust a stop point for the pads out so the springs don't pull the pads way back off the drums causing huge slop in the pedal.

    seeya,
    Shane L.

  5. #5
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    I would have thought that pads don't pull back like shoes so there's no slack to take up to give excessive pedal travel.

    Don't early Rangies have four spot calipers on the front and dual spots on the rear ? with a complex dual hydraulic system ?

    I'd be having a look underneath for fluid or check to see if one half of the master cylinder was empty.

    Perhaps you're only running on one brake circuit , this could give the symptoms you describe.


    Deano

  6. #6
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    The Pistons won't pull back, but if there is no Pad left you will be pushing harder, OR it will feel lower.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    I would have thought that pads don't pull back like shoes so there's no slack to take up to give excessive pedal travel.

    Don't early Rangies have four spot calipers on the front and dual spots on the rear ? with a complex dual hydraulic system ?

    I'd be having a look underneath for fluid or check to see if one half of the master cylinder was empty.

    Perhaps you're only running on one brake circuit , this could give the symptoms you describe.


    Deano
    Yep, twin pistons up front, single on rear.
    No not a complex system, fairly common system.

  8. #8
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    G`day ,

    try it on some gravel , low speed , lock up the brakes to a stop get out and see the gravel piled at the fronts and not rears.

    Primary is 2 on the front and 2 on the rear , secondary is the other 2 fronts .

    Check the proportional valve for a leak( in the primary) , rubber pipes ballooning , ETC

    If there`s fluid pad wear has little to do with pedal height .

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by discovery39 View Post

    Yep, twin pistons up front, single on rear.
    No not a complex system, fairly common system.
    I'm pretty sure my old '86 Classic had Lockheed 4 spots on the front and 2 spots on the rear with dual circuit hydraulics. The 'complex' bit was that both hydraulic circuits fed each front wheel with the rears on one circuit only. A little bit different from a 'normal' dual hydraulic system.

    Deano

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLR View Post
    G`day ,

    try it on some gravel , low speed , lock up the brakes to a stop get out and see the gravel piled at the fronts and not rears.

    Primary is 2 on the front and 2 on the rear , secondary is the other 2 fronts .

    Check the proportional valve for a leak( in the primary) ETC

    In there`s fluid pad wear has little to do with pedal height .
    Perfect, sounds like I need to download the manuals so I can understand how the primary and secondary systems work.

    I'm pretty sure it's leak free (well leak free for any car I own ) The engine weeps a little (not really any drips), marginal leaks from the gearbox and transfer cases ( not worth worrying about ... top up every 5years type leaks), and the rear diff tailshaft seal slings oil around it.. There's no other "patches" of wet under it if it's parked on concrete.

    I'm going to chase up a bleeder and change the brake fluid either way (it'll be very old no doubt). To save asking SWMBO to pump the pedal like I normally do. I might grab one of these.

    Rytool ONE MAN Brake Bleeder Hose | eBay

    nice brass fittings, shouldn't blow off the nipples (maybe) Has anyone tried one? I can't really be bothered with the bleeders that pressurise the reseviour (unless there is a good reason to use them over a quality one way valve off the nipples).

    seeya,
    Shane L.

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