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Thread: Aftermarket fuel and water gauges

  1. #1
    The Mutt Guest

    Aftermarket fuel and water gauges

    Not much has been left original on our 1988 RRC binnacle, after we did the 4BD1-T conversion our binnacle got a new speedo, the tacho was removed for the EGT and Boost gauges, now I'm finding the fuel and water temp gauges have started to play up, the, I've replaced the MFU/Voltage Stabiliser, the fuel tank sender was a new part less than 12 Months ago, I've also checked the wiring from nose to tail visually and by probe ... very frustrating at the moment.

    I'm sick of the original gauges and would like to put in a couple of 52mm aftermarket units.

    Has anyone replaced there RRC water temp and fuel gauges?

    Cheers
    Glenn

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Not yet but I'm about to be replacing my gauges as well. I found a guy in vice that does them, although I want all mine to look original, I'm replacing the temp and fuel in the hand side of the cluster with a tacho and fitting 52 mm temp and fuel separate.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Kiwiland
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    I'm considering ditching all the stock drivers for the water and fuel, using an arduino to check sender ohms and drive needle to the correct position.

    That way I can calibrate then to whatever I want.

    My fuel and water gauges have always been poo. They even follow each other.

  4. #4
    The Mutt Guest
    Programming an Arduino is my other choice as well Dougal, I have a few spares in my electronics box, do you have any max and min sensor values for the initial calibration as my gauges are out of sync with the real world I don't trust what I have at the moment, a full fuel tank shows under 1/4 on the gauge and the low fuel light stays on.

    V8Mitch, I gave up on looking original years ago for a developing personality ... it also helps that I work as a plastic welder, I've been modifying the duf duf cars to the owners ideas for over 20 Years, making dashes, grills, bumpers, etc as I have been told "looks sick man", our RRC instrument panel has had a basic redo already, must rebuild to the console soon.

    Cheers
    Glenn

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
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    I have temp sender values in here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-ra...nsor-ohms.html

    For fuel tank, best just to pull the sender and move it by hand to check.

  6. #6
    The Mutt Guest
    Thanks Dougal, I realized that I could read values off the fuel sender, I can't pull it out until I go through enough fuel, our fuel sender is on the side of the tank.

    At the moment I'm trying to work out why fuse 13 keeps blowing only when I put the boot in, started last night, no other fuse blow, I can't find a short in any of the wires so far ... sometimes I thing this car is cursed then I remember it's a Range Rover.

    Cheers
    Glenn

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