Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: First Range Rover

  1. #11
    Murray500 Guest
    Hi Guys


    Thanks for the welcome Chivalry, and I gather I'm in for a Land Rover learning curve lol




    Grumbles , I was pretty surprised with the car myself lol, saying that I know the fella who bought the car brand new, so have a good knowledge of the cars history, once it was purchased by my father the car was pretty well looked after, I know the service history and maintenance its had over the years so was pretty confident all would be well on the trip.




    Superquag, it was a lot better than I thought it would be on fuel, I certainly didn't give it a hard time, just sat on 100-110kmh on the bitumen and 70-80 on the dirt sections.

    The under bonnet heat issue adds up for me, I think it was mid to low 40's around Cobar and Bourke when it started missing and I'm starting to suspect the ignition module even though it was replaced a couple of years ago, I've ordered new rotor button, distributor cap, plugs, leads and coil, all Bosch, I'll see how it runs after I get them fitted.

    And your rite, they are just damn nice to drive lol, I do a lot of km's for work and haven't actually enjoyed a big drive like that in years, I'm a huge fan of older cars and I've started quietly wondering if a few mods and well thought out accessories might turn the old girl into a capable tourer.

  2. #12
    Murray500 Guest
    Hi Guys


    Thanks for the welcome Chivalry, and I gather I'm in for a Land Rover learning curve lol




    Grumbles , I was pretty surprised with the car myself lol, saying that I know the fella who bought the car brand new, so have a good knowledge of the cars history, once it was purchased by my father the car was pretty well looked after, I know the service history and maintenance its had over the years so was pretty confident all would be well on the trip.




    Superquag, it was a lot better than I thought it would be on fuel, I certainly didn't give it a hard time, just sat on 100-110kmh on the bitumen and 70-80 on the dirt sections.

    The under bonnet heat issue adds up for me, I think it was mid to low 40's around Cobar and Bourke when it started missing and I'm starting to suspect the ignition module even though it was replaced a couple of years ago, I've ordered new rotor button, distributor cap, plugs, leads and coil, all Bosch, I'll see how it runs after I get them fitted.

    And your rite, they are just damn nice to drive lol, I do a lot of km's for work and haven't actually enjoyed a big drive like that in years, I'm a huge fan of older cars and I've started quietly wondering if a few mods and well thought out accessories might turn the old girl into a capable tourer.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gosnells
    Posts
    6,148
    Total Downloaded
    0
    To be sure, - To Be Sure....

    Your post ended up twice, several minutes later. Probably a bad earth...

    Go to the SHOP at the top of the banners, 4th from RH side, wander about and buy the RAVE manual for your BottomLess Pit. Best few dollars you'll spend for a long time. No, I have no idea why it's called "RAVE" so don't ask .

    The last time I got a reasonable MPG out of Sarah, was on cruise control, speed limits or less, and running on 95 / 98 RON. Oh yes, I've got 225 /75 - 16 BFG A/Ts on the front, so the lower rolling resistance would have helped. They are a wonderful all-round tyre, no pun intended.

    Whilst you're fossicking around Dave's shoppe, have a look at the Headlight Kit, which will quadruple the life of your beam-switch, and brighten your headlights a bit.

    The Lady Sarah, 95 Classic Vogue SE with working air suspension and cruise control.
    Don't mention the BW's viscious coupling....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
    Posts
    3,859
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Murray500 View Post

    And your rite, they are just damn nice to drive lol, I do a lot of km's for work and haven't actually enjoyed a big drive like that in years, I'm a huge fan of older cars and I've started quietly wondering if a few mods and well thought out accessories might turn the old girl into a capable tourer.
    I find it interesting that everyone wants to "upgrade" the old rangies too make them "more capable". I reckon 99.9% of travel would be on a sealed road ... or gravel a standard sedan would easily travel on at speed (unless of course it's your weekend bush basher). I can't understand why anyone would ever "lift" a daily driver. No matter how well it's done, it'll drive worse 'cos the center of gravity is higher. Big tires ? Noisy, hit the bodywork, look stupid and stuff up the gearing. Especially people heading inland ... er, why would you want giant sized mud tires ... to drive in dust and corragations ....

    My idea of "upgrades" would be putting everything back too "new/standard" for reliablilty. New fan clutch, recored radiator, new water pump .... a car that overheats in the middle of nowhere is no good to anyone. New standard tires so it drives the best it possibly can. If I find a bit of ground that would actually require the departure angles of a lifted 4wd ............... I'd find a way around it!

    Also I'd make sure it's fitted with the soft and squishy standard springs so it rides the best it possibly can ... and make sure the leveller is working so it doesn't drag it arse up the road like a dog with worms

    If it's a weekend bush basher where you head for the local mud hole ... or creek to go rock climbing in .... well then modify away

    I find it quite bizzare that everyone "lifts" there modern land cruisers too... I asked one guy why he would lift his land cruiser... "you need it for towing offroad so your towbar doesn't hit the ground when towing through dips. And they told me at the place that did the conversion they drive a lot better when lifted "

    He just didn't get it when I asked how something with a higher center of gravity ... and stuffed up caster angle could drive better, especially if it has 3tons swinging off the back of it .... Obviosly the "suspension specialist" is going to insist it'll drive better with a set of chinese made aftermarket "lift springs" fitted I'll be dammed if he wasn't back on the same forum a few months later saying the cruiser was downright scary onroad when it was wet and slippery when towing and windy.

    I dont' get why anyone would buy a 3.5ton offroad caravan either .... How far do you think you'll be able to pull something that weighs 3.5ton offroad unless you have something like a bulldozer too pull it through the rough stuff with As soon as you drop the wheel of something that weighs 3.5ton into a hole .... you'll just sit there spinning the wheels of the towcar.... especially if it's muddy.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gosnells
    Posts
    6,148
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'm also a fan of standard or tall-skinny tyres for road and track. The other side of the coin is, whilst bomber wheels might give a bit more floatation, they also put enourmous stresses on the suspension bits and pieces.. stress they were not engineered for, IMHO (another story!)

    I've got BFG 225/75 R16 AT's on Sarah's front, and am mightily impressed with their sealed road performance and quiet, and their off-road suitability is well known.

    They look good and fill the wheel arches nicely.

  6. #16
    Murray500 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    I find it interesting that everyone wants to "upgrade" the old rangies too make them "more capable". I reckon 99.9% of travel would be on a sealed road ... or gravel a standard sedan would easily travel on at speed (unless of course it's your weekend bush basher). I can't understand why anyone would ever "lift" a daily driver. No matter how well it's done, it'll drive worse 'cos the center of gravity is higher. Big tires ? Noisy, hit the bodywork, look stupid and stuff up the gearing. Especially people heading inland ... er, why would you want giant sized mud tires ... to drive in dust and corragations ....

    My idea of "upgrades" would be putting everything back too "new/standard" for reliablilty. New fan clutch, recored radiator, new water pump .... a car that overheats in the middle of nowhere is no good to anyone. New standard tires so it drives the best it possibly can. If I find a bit of ground that would actually require the departure angles of a lifted 4wd ............... I'd find a way around it!

    Also I'd make sure it's fitted with the soft and squishy standard springs so it rides the best it possibly can ... and make sure the leveller is working so it doesn't drag it arse up the road like a dog with worms

    If it's a weekend bush basher where you head for the local mud hole ... or creek to go rock climbing in .... well then modify away

    I find it quite bizzare that everyone "lifts" there modern land cruisers too... I asked one guy why he would lift his land cruiser... "you need it for towing offroad so your towbar doesn't hit the ground when towing through dips. And they told me at the place that did the conversion they drive a lot better when lifted "

    He just didn't get it when I asked how something with a higher center of gravity ... and stuffed up caster angle could drive better, especially if it has 3tons swinging off the back of it .... Obviosly the "suspension specialist" is going to insist it'll drive better with a set of chinese made aftermarket "lift springs" fitted I'll be dammed if he wasn't back on the same forum a few months later saying the cruiser was downright scary onroad when it was wet and slippery when towing and windy.

    I dont' get why anyone would buy a 3.5ton offroad caravan either .... How far do you think you'll be able to pull something that weighs 3.5ton offroad unless you have something like a bulldozer too pull it through the rough stuff with As soon as you drop the wheel of something that weighs 3.5ton into a hole .... you'll just sit there spinning the wheels of the towcar.... especially if it's muddy.

    seeya,
    Shane L.













    Definitely horses for courses indeed isn't it, being one who likes a challenging drive I don't think I've had an unmodified 4wd lol, saying that I've never needed huge lifts either, I'm a fan of a couple of inches of lift, a pair of lockers and a winch, if that wont get me where I want to go I'll turn around and go home lol


    I agree the with keeping the centre of gravity as low as possible, especially whilst towing, we may tow a camper trailer but don't have the inclination to buy a caravan as yet, way to much hassle for where my wife and I like to go, Cape York , Fraser Island, local beaches etc, if we do put our energy into the old Rangie firstly it would indeed be checking and replacing/reconditioning those important items, cooling system brakes suspension bushes etc, as you say.


    If we go further then we may look at lockers axles tyres draw system water tanks compressor etc but fundamentals first lol

  7. #17
    Murray500 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by superquag View Post
    I'm also a fan of standard or tall-skinny tyres for road and track. The other side of the coin is, whilst bomber wheels might give a bit more floatation, they also put enourmous stresses on the suspension bits and pieces.. stress they were not engineered for, IMHO (another story!)

    I've got BFG 225/75 R16 AT's on Sarah's front, and am mightily impressed with their sealed road performance and quiet, and their off-road suitability is well known.

    They look good and fill the wheel arches nicely.




    No idea how I posted that twice, my computer hates me lol




    I'll definitely grab the Rave manual, thanks for the tip could come in handy indeed lol, I ran 98/95 fuel when I bought the old girl home as well and its on 235/70-16's Maxxis AT tyres, I've run Maxxis MT's on my Hilux for the last 6 years and honestly can not fault them, 2 trips up the Tele Track, numerous trips to Fraser Island , Teewah Beach , Moreton Island and 4wd Parks around Brisbane when we lived there and have never had a problem at all, not even a flat lol Love them.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gosnells
    Posts
    6,148
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I run 95 / 98 RON in the Daily Driver (have'nt named her, - yet...) Mazda 323 Protege and she gives a better mileage than 91. - Feels like it's running smooother too.
    Sarah likes it as well,and she's partial to 100 RON E10 as well,gives her a bit more get-up and go. (anecdotal evidence only) Since I've advanced her timing to 12 degrees, it seems only fair to feed her a better drink....

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!