Thread: Meet Max

Ah, the seat bases - they are a royal PITA. Yes, there are nuts underneath that are hard enough to get at even without the sill tanks there, so you could have some fun there. personally, I would probably just cut the old ones off then figure out the rest later on...

Not sure if the rear seat is the same as the 4 door but if it is, there should only be a couple of 13mm bolts holding it in. Does it fold forward at all? Mine folds down, then forward, which gives you access to the boots that hold it in. It stays folded and is removed through the back door - which you don't have, so the whole arrangement may be different.

Originally Posted by grey_ghost

but I really don't want to repaint the rest of the car...


Question: What have other people done, other than seek a professional panel beater / spray painter? I certainly can't afford to re-spray the entire car!

Why not? You have a compressor. I have a spray gun.
I've always wondered how to use it.

Hi Mick,

To do it properly I should sand back the entire car first, then possibly use some body filler if I find any imperfections, then spray a primer, at least 2 top coasts and a clear coat.

While not impossible - it is certainly a big job to do in my driveway (or garage) and pray for no rain!

It's one of those jobs - once you start it's a big job to do it properly.

Doable - but scary for this little black duck!!!

Cheers,
GG.

No electric windows, they might be to control the transfer pumps for the sill tanks. Follow them under the car and you will find the transfer pumps, most likely quite small inline pumps.

Seat bolts are captive nuts nearest the centre hump and bolt and nut on the outside. Cut them off and deal with it when refitting.

I have painted many cars in the driveway, sand it all down ready for the weekend, etch prime (because it's aluminium) in the morning, after lunch sand and then do the top coats. If you use acrylic you don't need clear or you could use enamel, all you do is wait for the solvent to evaporate (4 weeks), then polish.

I agree with CC above
Don't be scared of doing the re spray yourself
Remember that a good finish is all about the prep work. The more time you spend on that the better the finish will be. Sand, fill, sand and spray primer. Sand again and inspect under a bright light or sunlight. Any scratches or dents that show in primer will stand out like dogs balls in finish coat. Refill, sand and reprime until you get it right
I would use acrylic paint as it dries immediately, is easy to spray and is cheap. See you local car paint supplier for advise on mix ratios, thinners and colours, they can match existing (faded) colours.
Enjoy it
Phil

Originally Posted by bumper

The 2 switches on the steering column one is for the interior lights and the other is the dash instrument lights. the short stick leaver is for the fog lights

Correct! Brain Fade on my behalf.

DL

As others have stated respraying it yourself is not as expensive as you may think.
Google is your friend and there is plenty of Youtube videos on spray painting and polishing ....do some research

Autopro here in Perth for example will tint / mix automotive paint colours, they will also put them in spray packs for touch up.

As Phil B, grey_ghost and Mick Mash have suggested its prep that counts plus having a reasonable compressor.

I resprayed my RRC about 2 years ago now, minimal prep and I didn't do any filing ?..bugger
I sprayed it under a lean to and in the open late on a Sunday with temperature dropping quickly.

Here's a few photos ?.it did come up better than expected.

No reason not to give it a go ??

Cheers

Baggy

Go to your local auto-paints store and get them to match the existing white colour. You'll never pick a match yourself, there is an endless number of shades of white....... If it was dark/black. just about any black would match

Failing htat, buy a bucket of white paint and re-colour the entire car

seeya,
Shane L.