New project 89 vogue

**aRRon** · 8th April 2016, 08:38 PM

Jezza, if you're replacing the camshaft and followers you'll need to set the preload on the (followers) hydraulic lifters. It's involved, being tricky for the home mechanic to measure and requiring shims under the rocker shaft pedestals to make any adjustments.
You can put everything together, measure the preload on each lifter and if you're lucky and they're ALL within tolerances (0.020" to 0.060" from memory) then you're set. If not you'll need to order a shim set from UK suppliers.
Last time I did it, even with reco heads, all new rocker shafts, cam and lifters, preloads were out - had to go new rockers and fit shims to get it right. Even valve wear where some of the valves have recessed into their seats and thus increased their protrusion above the top of the guide can send their lifter preload out of tolerance.
If you don't ensure preloads are within tolerances you risk noisy tapping lifters or worse, some riding valves that don't seat fully/long enough and burn out.
There are a few sites that illustrate and explain the procedure. I found using the extension arm of an electronic vernier caliper the easiest and most acurate way to measure preload.

**Meccles** · 8th April 2016, 10:28 PM

V8Tuner.com in UK sell's the shims. I found them real helpful and quick. Plus cams/followers etc. I use spark plug gap tool to measure the pre load at the lifter, that work's ok too. Just used a 30 thou wire. And yes, 20 -60 is pre load. Same site has good link to their old site with all details on how to measure etc.

**jezza89** · 10th April 2016, 04:27 PM

Will be interesting to see state of pre load then. 1mm seems to be a lot of tolerance, so I hope it hasn't seen more wear than that!

**jezza89** · 11th April 2016, 02:23 PM

This arrived today...

**aRRon** · 12th April 2016, 09:33 PM

What does Britpart mean by a "tappet adjuster" - no such thing in the original. Is this a new term for hydraulic lifter?

**Vern** · 13th April 2016, 05:50 PM

Ooooooh thats a lotta britpart there, hope it works

**Pacemaker** · 14th April 2016, 11:33 AM

Hi Jezza,

I'm at the same point as you with my softdash. I bought a rusty 97 d1 for the engine. Its coming out this weekend and I'll be pulling it down for a reseal and what ever parts it needs.
I'm assuming you have purchased a standard cam from LR? Would you mind telling me what you paid for it?

Thanks.

**jezza89** · 14th April 2016, 11:49 PM

Originally Posted by Pacemaker

Hi Jezza,

I'm at the same point as you with my softdash. I bought a rusty 97 d1 for the engine. Its coming out this weekend and I'll be pulling it down for a reseal and what ever parts it needs.
I'm assuming you have purchased a standard cam from LR? Would you mind telling me what you paid for it?

Thanks.

I'm pulling mine apart this weekend also

The parts from LR Direct were around $200 to my door. That's a standard cam, lifters, seals, timing chain, sprockets and bottom end gasket kit. Not genuine but Britpart copies.
I bought a composite head gasket kit from ebay a week before for about $80

I've used a fair bit of Britpart gear in the past, and for the most part, it's been very good value. Genuine LR is just exorbitant price!

I'll be sure to post up plenty of pics of the progress, maybe even a video.

**jezza89** · 16th April 2016, 07:59 PM

Got most of it pulled apart this afternoon. The engine actually looks quite clean, no buildup to be seen. Also had a composite head gasket already, putting another one on anyway.

Will be interesting to see this camshaft when I can get it out.

**jezza89** · 16th April 2016, 08:57 PM

The spark plugs could probably still be ok with a cleanup and re gap, but just going to throw all the new gear in and see what kind of results it gets!

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