Thread: Rangie Suspension / Tyre Ideas

Lowered bumpstops would be a good idea. 31x10.5R15's on +13 offset rims rub on rear guard lips on mine. 1 inch bumpstop extension fixed that.

235/85's on std rims rub on the rear of the front wheel arch on a mates RRC. Minor trimming would fix this i think.

2" lift and 235/85-16's on standard offset works really well.

No need to do a body lift of extend bump stops unless you change the shocks.

The tyres will rub on the rear door jambs but that's about it.

That combo works really well in my experience...

For what is worth this was my old mans classic.
2" lift
31x10.5 on 0 or +10 ( was a while ago) sunnies.

Only had to fold the lip over on the rear doors.

PSI250 ... your old man's Rangie is sweet

Agree with Rick1970 ....I had 31x 10.5 on my 2 Door classic with. 2in lift and had no issues with rubbing on guards ...tyres are reasonably cheap ther're equilivent to std 16 rims so no issues with speedo error.

Ive put them on a recently purchased 92 Classic which has had the guards cut.
92 had 16 inch alloys which I've put on the 2 dr while it's parked up awaiting engine transplant / rebuild as they were worn.

I'll post photos of both later

Baggy

OK experts, answer me this...

Why would you raise the suspension height by 2", if you could install a 2" body lift and achieve the same result, without significantly increasing the issues of CofG change and the subsequent change in diff pinion angles, caster etc...

I can only think of one reason, $.

Possibly 'easier' though I doubt it, as the additional work req'd with a suspension lift to maintain correct driveline operating angles is arguably more of a pita than lifting a body off a chassis.....

I'm just wanting to understand what people's logic is.

For me it would be pertinent to understand the reasoning for a decision, than to blindly follow without understanding what that reasoning is.

Much easier to fit lifted springs than a body lift. Springs are very easy to change on a RR
Body lift requires a hoist and you need to change quite a few bushes.

Should also factor in that if the car is still on original springs, they would be sagging big time.

Originally Posted by Mercguy

OK experts, answer me this...

Why would you raise the suspension height by 2", if you could install a 2" body lift and achieve the same result, without significantly increasing the issues of CofG change and the subsequent change in diff pinion angles, caster etc...

I can only think of one reason, $.

Possibly 'easier' though I doubt it, as the additional work req'd with a suspension lift to maintain correct driveline operating angles is arguably more of a pita than lifting a body off a chassis.....

I'm just wanting to understand what people's logic is.

For me it would be pertinent to understand the reasoning for a decision, than to blindly follow without understanding what that reasoning is.

They don't achieve the same result. Pro's and con's for both i guess.

Suspension lift can give some more compression room before it hits the bumpstops, if thats desirable. But may also loose some suspension droop, exp in the front of a landy. Also won't allow extra space for larger dia tyres without bumpstop spacing.

Body lift alone may gain you some extra tyre room, but not much else.If suspension if left as is, your stuck with the factory stuff, which may or may not suit.

Moderate sized tyres.....spring/shock/suspension to suit needs.
Larger sized tyres.....suspension to suit + bodylift / guard cut to fit tyres at full compression without fouling.

Make it as low as you can get away with, rather than as tall as you possibly can....

Originally Posted by Mercguy

OK experts, answer me this...

Why would you raise the suspension height by 2", if you could install a 2" body lift and achieve the same result, without significantly increasing the issues of CofG change and the subsequent change in diff pinion angles, caster etc...

I can only think of one reason, $.

Possibly 'easier' though I doubt it, as the additional work req'd with a suspension lift to maintain correct driveline operating angles is arguably more of a pita than lifting a body off a chassis.....

I'm just wanting to understand what people's logic is.

For me it would be pertinent to understand the reasoning for a decision, than to blindly follow without understanding what that reasoning is.

So when I hit speed bumps at 80km/h it doesn't bottom out!

2" works quite nicely on these things, castor is only just becoming an issue.

Chassis clearance doesn't hurt either, helps with approach and departure.

Truth be told you don't need the lift, I ran mine stock height on 235/85's for several months.