Wizard
SupporterG`day ,Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
Wow ... your going to annoy other drivers with all those light when you constantly flash them frantically trying to get low beam to work again ....
It got to the point where I refused to use high beam because 80% of the time when I flicked it back to low beam .... the damn lights would go out and low beam would refuse to come on ....
So I did something most unlike me .... I lashed out and bought a brand new switch .............. To find a good 25% of the time ...
The lights still go out .... and low beam refused to come on .... with a brand new bloody switch
I think I'm going to modify the wiring so if the parking lights are on ... low beam is always on unless high beam is on (it'll just take a relay out on the headlights).
seeya,
Shane L.
around 20 yrs ago i replaced the switch and at the same time fitted relays , one for each light because there are 2 circuits .
Mid last year low beam was working and not and then not at all , because of the relays the switch only switches and doesn`t carry what lets the smoke out , but as i have another new switch .
To get to the point , all a i did was clean the contacts in the old switch still fitted and have had no problem with low beam since .
The new switch sits in the shed with the other spares that stop things failing .
Master
See rangieman ..... you knew exactly wot i was talking about
I upgraded my bulbs in my headlights .....now the battery light on dash glows fairly brightly at night
Something I'm working on ....awating arrival of new multimeter hence my comment on number of spot lights ..... mine dosent have any spotties and struggles to keep battery charged.
Additional photos' would still be nice.....
Cheers
Baggy
YarnMaster
SupporterHow does anyone survive without a multi-meterSee rangieman ..... you knew exactly wot i was talking about
I upgraded my bulbs in my headlights .....now the battery light on dash glows fairly brightly at night
Something I'm working on ....awating arrival of new multimeter hence my comment on number of spot lights ..... mine dosent have any spotties and struggles to keep battery charged.
Additional photos' would still be nice.....
Cheers
BaggySounds like your alternator has dropped a phase or two. Why don't you whip it off and see if the rectifier has dropped a diode or two.
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Fossicker
Dang, that thread sure exploded.
Yeah, they are US spec indicators & parkers (I don't know if having orange marker lights are legal or not, trucks can have them so why can't I lol).
I have some COB light strips under the headlights but they were too bright so I moved them so they now stand vertically between the headlight and the indicators.
I have also ran a white LED strip which comes on as DRL's, so hopefully the jacks will be nice to me.
The other day there were 2 Highway Patrol cars, occupied with their windows down... now my exhaust is a tad loud so I had to creep past them on idle haha
Anyways...
Headlight bulbs have been changed to COB LEDs, nice bright light and they pull 1/2 the current (50w for both).... running all spotties (which are all wired with fuses on every one just in case and the lightbar on the roof makes the idle drop but the alternator looks like it's OK as both battery meters say over 13v on idle.
My alternator was brand new when I bought the car but I don't know the output of it.
Am pretty sure it's a high current variant as when I start the car when it's warm you can see that the field hasn't energised as the battery light is on (this is running no extra current drains) until you give it a slight rev then it goes out and everything is normal again. When it's cold there is no issue as the cold start thingy works
Baggy: my spots all have 50w halogens (which will be changed to LEDs in the future)
so that's just over 16 Amps there alone, the lightbar draws about 15 Amps (I haven't checked that to make sure though so am going of general bars) , both LED headlights on is another 50w so call that 4 Amps so if I do this right then full high beam with everything on is a pretty substantial 35 Amps.
Hope I've covered everything lol
Cheers guys
Dave
35a is hardly substantial
Fossicker
I reckon that's a fair current draw at idle if you have other accessories (like the heater fan) too35a is hardly substantial
Quick video of the rangie:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k30tAxOy2y4[/ame]
Dave
Yes. But that is one of the purposes of the battery.. and at idle why would you usually be running driving lights
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