Thread: Touring Classics

I'm assuming your EAS is working perfectly... do you own a 'Kicker' or re-set device for it ? Will be embarrassing if something upsets it and you're down to the bump stops... Trust me, not comfortable! See Blackbox Solutions.

Either way, you need to have a 'Self-Rescue/bag isolation system' in place. This can be simply a tap, Tee-piece and Schraeder valve set for each 'bag, dangling somewhere near, or to be fancy, plumbed back to one spot to look Very Neat . Or you can simply take enough fittings and parts etc, to make one up if disaster strikes.
You have an air pump with you? Suspension inflation as well as tyres... which is why you have the Schraeder (tyre) valves on the Self-Rescue.
And, I hope you've cleaned the EAS air filter.... Take out the subwoofer assembly to find the little hatch. Check RAVE.

Being Super-Prepared will make a Favourable Impression on the future (?) SWMBO

Regarding bags, I would steer clear of the (supposedly better) USA / ARNOTTS units, simply as they're not repairable, as is the OEM setup.

I had the ARNOTTS on my late Classic and they worked well, but, if/when the rubber perishes, then the whole unit gets tossed.

Another thing, I understand that the REAR bladders, which are longer, can be used on the fronts.
Makes sense, as doing so would allow ONE 'universal' spare to be carried, instead of needing two. (one of each) Check before you jump!

There were articles here on how to change bags in the field, as well as the discussion of using REARS on the FRONTS. Shop around for prices on them... they can vary up to 100%. Last time I looked, around $90 each, from UK

Best of luck!

A critical review of the cooling system might be in order including having the radiator rodded and fitting a new viscous cooling fan hub might be worth thinking about along with an auto tranny service.

Enjoy your trip......

Originally Posted by superquag

I'm assuming your EAS is working perfectly... do you own a 'Kicker' or re-set device for it ? Will be embarrassing if something upsets it and you're down to the bump stops... Trust me, not comfortable! See Blackbox Solutions.

Either way, you need to have a 'Self-Rescue/bag isolation system' in place. This can be simply a tap, Tee-piece and Schraeder valve set for each 'bag, dangling somewhere near, or to be fancy, plumbed back to one spot to look Very Neat . Or you can simply take enough fittings and parts etc, to make one up if disaster strikes.
You have an air pump with you? Suspension inflation as well as tyres... which is why you have the Schraeder (tyre) valves on the Self-Rescue.
And, I hope you've cleaned the EAS air filter.... Take out the subwoofer assembly to find the little hatch. Check RAVE.

Being Super-Prepared will make a Favourable Impression on the future (?) SWMBO

Regarding bags, I would steer clear of the (supposedly better) USA / ARNOTTS units, simply as they're not repairable, as is the OEM setup.

I had the ARNOTTS on my late Classic and they worked well, but, if/when the rubber perishes, then the whole unit gets tossed.

Another thing, I understand that the REAR bladders, which are longer, can be used on the fronts.
Makes sense, as doing so would allow ONE 'universal' spare to be carried, instead of needing two. (one of each) Check before you jump!

There were articles here on how to change bags in the field, as well as the discussion of using REARS on the FRONTS. Shop around for prices on them... they can vary up to 100%. Last time I looked, around $90 each, from UK

Best of luck!

G'day mate, yes the previous owner had already installed a 'get out of trouble' kit for the suspension, he also installed a "rocket launcher" switch under the drivers seat to isolate the entire system if need be.

It is very possible that this particular female could become the SWMBO. She was very jealous of the soft dash after it came home and still refers to it as my 'younger girlfriend'.

I was looking at the LRA bellows, they are $100 each, I planned to take 2. I very much appreciate that the previous owner persevered with the EAS and kept the car so well. I believe the EAS to be a very important part of the last of the RRCs and would never want to do a coil conversion.

Originally Posted by Grumbles

A critical review of the cooling system might be in order including having the radiator rodded and fitting a new viscous cooling fan hub might be worth thinking about along with an auto tranny service.

Enjoy your trip......

Yes, the radiator currently in the car needs attention but I have a good spare and wanted to make the engine oil and transmission fluid have their own radiators with fans. I also have a service kit for the transmission that was included with the car upon purchase from it's previous caretaker.

I was wondering though if it would be worth my time to fit thermo fans and remove the viscous fan whilst doing the radiator (which will be done at the same time as cam replacement/top end refresh). As I never want to take such a nice example of a soft dash offroad or through rivers or mud, I was thinking that a viscous fan is not really essential for what I need from the car. Having said that though, the fan is working well.



Thanks for your replies so far!

I too have a soft dash, lse actually, but it is extensively modified for offroad and touring with 210L of fuel available, diesel engine, and eas in the bin, one less thing i don't have to deal with.
But also look at getting bellows from airbagman, they are cheaper and a little taller. Bilstien apparently do an eas compatable shock, or look at koni.

If you plan on taking a pair of spare bellows, then maybe you should check the current bellows/ airbag units... make sure they are OEM, and not the ARNOTTS, that quite a few Classics sprouted.

(Betcha they're ARNOTTS.... in which case you'll need the OEM alloy end-mounts and don't lose the little clips that hold them in place.)


Hint:- have a close look on the Dampers (common cars have 'shocks', Range Rovers are above such crude descriptors...) - see if you can find a mileage and/or date scribbled on them. Some intelligent owners write such info on parts they replace.

I'd look seriously at a total radiator replacement as being the easy way out.

My advice from a LR radiator expert is... the standard radiator can cope with Anything, as long as it's clean. Too many owners have a cheap after-market core fitted, instead of the more expensive "OEM-Equivalent" Problem with the cheapy is... poor quality and insufficient metal to solder onto the (original) end tanks, so they tend to pop off in time.


Top end overhauls are always a good idea, funnily enough, I've got a (European made) head gasket set for a 3.9, sitting on top of my wardrobe, just need to locate the safe place where the head bolts are hiding... ? No good to me as I don't own one anymore.

Quite a few folk have replaced the VC fan with a pair of Ford Falcon thermo-fans. This may be a viable option, cost-wise and I'm told they work well. Wait a day or three and the info will surface here.

A new radiator or a good-quality recore, no question about it. Rodding isn't good enough. Look at where I live and you'll see why I've learned a lot about Rangie cooling systems.

Thermo fans are good, but not before a big trip. It takes a bit of experimenting to figure out the best way to mount them, and best way to wire them up, and the best way to switch them on. I'm onto my third try and hopefully have got it right.

We drove down to Augusta and back over the New Year holidays, and didn't see a single Classic! So you'll have no trouble spotting your vehicle in a carpark.

Originally Posted by Chivalry

The car still has working EAS and I would like to retain this, I will fit new bags but wondering what to do about the shocks.

From the PO of my LSE with EAS

The Koni (adjustable) shocks are almost too stiff when empty, but come into their own when loaded or towing.

After driving a 94 softdash and 88 hard dash in very stock form on quite a few nice holiday trips I can only recommend a new radiator rather than trying to refresh the cooling system, stick with the stock viscous fan - make sure it works, its worked this far and on how ever many classics around the world, and just ensure your EAS is leak free and has a pump up point or two added in so you can pump up the tank at the servo or with a compressor. if your really worried about it install a switch on the AC fan's, as mine don't seem to come on when the car was getting hot and the ac wasn't on.

I wouldn't bother carrying too many large ticket spares, there is not allot of space in a classic if your going away for a few weeks or more, especially if you have the fridge, bedding, camp gear, etc, and in all seriousness if you need a drive shaft or trans kick down cable (as happened to me in the Victorian otways/strzelecki track) or something and your not going far from civilization the worst case is one being overnight'd from where ever.

I would put some effort into making sure all the suspension bushes are good and things like tie rod ends and the steering box are good, makes it nice to drive and no unexpected strange tire wear in a place where tires aren't cheap, and carry two spares depending on where you plan to go.

Ensure you have a good cargo barrier and if you have lots up top maybe use the strength of the cargo carrier to ensure some safety in the event off a roll over. I have seen a few pancaked classics and it does worry me, particularly with the two door.

Sounds like SWMBO's a good one mine hates the big TJM roof rack, so it had to come off, she said it made the car look like a tip top bread truck.

If your doing shocks go the oem boges - they ride like a cloud, if your loading up with weight go the red koni's, they are great but harsh if not loaded up as allready pointed out earlier in the thread. just my 2 cents