The RRC "Cost Effective Maintenance" thread

[ozscott]

I use the stuff and my 4.6 has only done under 60,000k. I believe in keeping it all clean.

Cheers

[Spel1]

For what its worh, I'll add one thing to consider.

I like CEM stuff, especially the Cleanpower and Oil additive, the flushing oil concentrate works well too.
The one thing is with the FTC decarbonizer - if you have ANY issues with your cylinder head like potential cracks, gasket etc, it will bring them to the fore quick smart, which I guess is not a bad thing if you want to be sure. With my Ford courier diesel ute, which seemed to have been running OK, within a week of using FTC it developed a huge (catastrophic) problem with coolant use - it must have exposed all the hairline cracks it had all at the same time, plus blew out any hope of the gasket holding any coolant in with carbon build up - it was a mess, but it was clean. This might have been a coincidence, but exactly the same happened when I ran it in my 300TDI. So unless you want your cylinder head problems to be known immediately, hang off on the FTC decarbonizer, because it works really well.

[Mercguy]

Just thought I'd post an update.

Engine is running smooth, and the FTC appears to be working better than anticipated. The carbon buildup around the exhaust manifold flanges has slowly disappeared, revealing some exhaust leaks at the flanges


What amazed me most however, is that the oil has suffered hardly any discolouration at all since the fill.

I have to say, I was expecting a much darker looking oil when I checked it, but there is hardly any difference at all.

The engine is obviously at it's best when warm, and is running well at highway speeds (110) and like all 3.9's, prefers to sit at about 75mph.

Now that the om606 is being prepared for insertion into the RRC, it will be apparent soon enough how good the product is - because it's going into the 606 as a "prep flush" before it's installed.
The 606 is on a stand with the 722.6 trans, and this gives me room to test the LT230 fitment - I'm still in two minds as to whether or not I keep the cae divorced from the trans or mount it up directly.
I'm keeping the 606 stuff separately on the blog, for the curious..

[Mercguy]

I better update this, since I posted in the other thread in technical chatter.

3 weeks ago, I performed another routine oilchange, without the "flush"

What came out was quite dark, but nowhere near as bad as the first two. In fact, most of the 'discolouration' was the MOS2 liqui-moly additive that I have been using since I commenced this regime. If one is familiar with colouring in oil, then the translucent greyness of MOS2 additive as opposed to the brown-black turbidity of the engines detritus is very apparent. It requires experience and constant checking in the first couple of weeks of commencement, to gain an understanding of how the additives behave in conjunction with each other.

Last night, after posting in the other thread, I went down to check the oil, just out of curiosity, to see how quickly the oil is discolouring. It's still clean as a whistle, and the liquimoly MOS2 can bee seen clearly and evenly distributed in the oil. There is no obvious or noticeable discolouration from fuel/carbon/sludge at this stage.

Obviously I wasn't going to pull the rocker cover again in the darkness and for no reason, so I'll wait until the next change, in approx 6000km. Suffice to say, the product is performing exactly to expectation.

At over 360K and without a rebuild, it's certainly got some valve guide wear and still has a little blowby in the guide area, still runs rich like all old 14cux v8's, but the bulk of wear is from the previous decades of ownership, and nothing I didn't already know about.

At this point I have not had any need to continue any heavy dosing with the FTC decarbonizer. It's still on it's low-dose, but I've extended that to every 3rd tank of fuel now.

All in all, no complaints. I should pull the plenum housing off the top and photograph / get a good idea of the EGR crap that is bound to be clogging the intake, but I really don't want the unnecessary hassle.

[Grumbles]

This is a most informative thread with very detailed recording of the effect of using the C.E.M. additive. It has been terrific of you to share your valuable experience with us Mercguy. Very cool mate!!

Mods - any chance of making this thread a sticky? The information contained herein is just too valuable to be lost in the multitude of threads that AULRO generates.

And maybe the other thread in Technical which Mercguy speaks of too? That's a thread which I was unaware of and will have to find and read.

[barnfindseries3ffr]

Yeah I second the sticky proposal, top stuff mercguy

[incisor]

this might have been a coincidence, but exactly the same happened when I ran it in my 300TDI. So unless you want your cylinder head problems to be known immediately, hang off on the FTC decarbonizer, because it works really well.

Certainly hasnt been my experience with FTC and a 300tdi with 490000 odd klms on it, so i find it had to believe the FTC had anything to do with it...

but you never know i suppose.

[Mercguy]

I'm not going to postulate or provide a hypothetical on another's experiences.

I am using this thread to document the process and note the observations - to which end I'd also appreciate keeping it on topic and not letting the discussion wander.

there is another thread where anecdotal evidence and banal pseudoscience with a healthy dose of conjecture is a regular additive... 'Flushing oil concentrate' - snake oil?

So those who want to perpetuate the relative merits of the sundial versus the antikythera mechanism and whether or not snake oil is an effective colonic lubricant for Kookaburras, the "snake oil thread" has all the answers

[Mercguy]

I had to do swivel / diff and BWTC fluid servicing last week, and it took too much time to plough through, before I could get to engine.
Unfortunately, with all the end of year hassles and commitments, I only had time this morning to do a "quickie" flush (add to existing oil, not add to new oil and flush)

Regardless of the situation, what came out was pretty turbid. AND smelled of fuel. This is telling me that the blowby is obviously causing the lack of power, but it's also telling me the cylinder walls are as clean as the rest of the innards, which is to say, a lot cleaner than they were before this commenced.

I am satisfied with the current routine and had not planned on deviating, until now. I am however changing my oil viscosity and type on this change.

Instead of the HPR diesel oil which I normally use for flushing and fill, I am using the 15-60 full synth, and I am expecting a different colouring at the next change.

Because I'm using a slightly more expensive oil, I will be pushing the drop interval out to 10,000km - IF - the oil doesn't look too bad, or I do not have to do any large top-ups between now and 5000Km.

I will change the filter at 5000 regardless.

If by 5K the oil takes on the same colour as it's sibling and the turbidity is still there as has been previously, then I'll revert to the HPR diesel and drop every 5K as per previous.

No sense in wasting $ on more expensive oils if there is no advantage in longevity.

What is noticeable is the time it takes for the oil to become turbid is far longer than it used to be. I'm quite satisfied of the improvement, yet I believe there is more to be gained and more to be learned.

I've also put the Flushing oil through the 300 coupe and the SL this week and both of those are absolutely spotless-brand new inside. Not difficult, because they've always been exceptionally well maintained tight engines, despite the mileage and are never problematic from a sludging or staining perspective.

I do have to do the ZF fluid and filter this week. would be nice to see if I can get the pan off without having to remove the crossmember though.

[rar110]

I’ve used their engine flush on the 3.6 tdv8. The oil is staying cleaner longer.