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Thread: lumpy acceleration on LPG between 1000-1500rpm

  1. #1
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    Cool lumpy acceleration on LPG between 1000-1500rpm [SOLVED]

    I have a dual fuel ignition question...

    A while ago I had my gearbox and transfer case rebuilt so I took the RR for a shakedown along the powerlines track here in WA. It was a good rebuild to say the least. It did go through some puddles though.

    Almost immediately after this, I have noticed that when accelerating on LPG (especially at traffic lights) the engine feels quite lumpy/misfiring between around 1000rpm and 1500rpm.

    I have figured out that the misfiring only occurs after the car has warmed up and only when it's running on gas. Since LPG systems need almost perfect ignition systems, and the issue occurs only after the engine bay is nice and warm, I was thinking solid state electronics issue. Do you guys think the ignition amplifier module needs replacing or is on its way out? Or am I barking up the wrong tree. I need to figure this out before Christmas as I'm driving across to Tasmania and I don't want any funny business on the nullaboor.

    About three years ago, I replaced the ignition amplifier with another Lucas one for a similar issue, except that it was happening on both fuels and also stalling at the lights/ low RPM. So maybe this one is on its way out?
    Last edited by gussy; 5th December 2017 at 05:52 PM. Reason: issue resolved

  2. #2
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    Here’s a picture of the Lucas amplifier module that I replaced the third party version with (bottom) 3 years ago

  3. #3
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    I gave up years ago using those modules, they're marginal at best.

    Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

    Not to say that yours isn't working. Try undoing the distributor cap and leaving it to air in the sun for an hour after getting the engine warm. Use a hair dryer if no sun available. There may be slight traces of moisture condensing inside the distributor cap. Polish the cap inside and out with a soft cotton cloth.

  4. #4
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    double post

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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    I gave up years ago using those modules, they're marginal at best.

    Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

    Not to say that yours isn't working. Try undoing the distributor cap and leaving it to air in the sun for an hour after getting the engine warm. Use a hair dryer if no sun available. There may be slight traces of moisture condensing inside the distributor cap. Polish the cap inside and out with a soft cotton cloth.
    Thanks @Beeutey! I'll give it a try after work today. I'll let you know how it goes! Otherwise I'll go for the amplifier module... I was thinking about doing your Bosch conversion a few years ago actually. Maybe this is the opportunity I've been waiting for.

    Does this mean that oxygen & LPG is harder to ignite than oxygen & petrol vapour and consequently needs a cleaner spark? If my problem is failing ignition...

  6. #6
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    MSD Street Fire ignition

    My Rangie left me on the side of the road the other week for the first time. Not a biggy only took a couple of minutes to sort out. It was a bit of water on the ignition module plug. But I don't like people to see a Range Rover on the side of the road with the bonnet up . No good for any of us.

    So prior to that I was having some issues with ruff idle and a miss every now and again that was probably fowled plugs.

    So I didn't want that happening again so I fitted a MSD Street Fire ignition with the Tach adaptor to my RRC and it has sorted the little issues I was having and runns sweet as now. I've still got it on std 0 dec ignition timing but I'll be winding up the advance soon. You know advance till she pings and back off a smidge .

    I don't mind sticking in MSD ignitions on older cars as they work great and it was the best modification I ever did to my sigma years ago.

    Cost $220 for the ignition and $80 for the tach adaptor and took half an hour to fit. All the original stuff is still there so if it does happen to crap itself its a 2 min job to plug in the old ignition.


    I was going to do a write up on it when I get some miles and a couple of tanks of gas through it and give some stats on the conversion.

    Here it is fitted just next to the coil behind the left side headlight.

    IMG_0003.jpg

    and a youtube video on MSDs

    MSD Ignition Controls - Playing with Fire - YouTube
    04 L322 Vogue V8 - Work truck
    07 Freelander 2 TD4 SE - The wifes
    74 Leyland P76 Targa Florio - Aspen Green
    91 Kawasaki GPZ900R


    Previous LRs = 78IIa series - 81, 93, 95 RRC - D2V8

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gussy View Post
    Does this mean that oxygen & LPG is harder to ignite than oxygen & petrol vapour and consequently needs a cleaner spark? If my problem is failing ignition...
    Pretty much. A mixture of LPG and air takes a higher voltage gradient across the plug gap to ionise the mixture and initiate a spark compared to petrol/air. Momentary lean mixtures on LPG can be a real hazard to forwards motion due to less ionisation available. And retarded timing means a higher cylinder pressure at the point of ignition so 10 degrees BTDC at idle assists low to medium speed power.

    Reduced plug gaps (0.7 to 0.8mm) helps a bit. The type of plug lead can cause odd running problems with LPG too due to resonances in the high voltage section.

  8. #8
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    I knew a guy once who swore by MSD systems, gave me one to try in the wife's old P76. Worked well until it left her stranded by the side of a country road miles from home. It got a Bosch module soon after that and that never let her down. No doubt the newer MSD's would be reliable but the Bosch one works well as well under 1/2 the price.


    Quote Originally Posted by FisherX View Post
    My Rangie left me on the side of the road the other week for the first time. Not a biggy only took a couple of minutes to sort out. It was a bit of water on the ignition module plug. But I don't like people to see a Range Rover on the side of the road with the bonnet up . No good for any of us.

    So prior to that I was having some issues with ruff idle and a miss every now and again that was probably fowled plugs.

    So I didn't want that happening again so I fitted a MSD Street Fire ignition with the Tach adaptor to my RRC and it has sorted the little issues I was having and runns sweet as now. I've still got it on std 0 dec ignition timing but I'll be winding up the advance soon. You know advance till she pings and back off a smidge .

    I don't mind sticking in MSD ignitions on older cars as they work great and it was the best modification I ever did to my sigma years ago.

    Cost $220 for the ignition and $80 for the tach adaptor and took half an hour to fit. All the original stuff is still there so if it does happen to crap itself its a 2 min job to plug in the old ignition.


    I was going to do a write up on it when I get some miles and a couple of tanks of gas through it and give some stats on the conversion.

    Here it is fitted just next to the coil behind the left side headlight.

    IMG_0003.jpg

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FisherX View Post
    My Rangie left me on the side of the road the other week for the first time. Not a biggy only took a couple of minutes to sort out. It was a bit of water on the ignition module plug. But I don't like people to see a Range Rover on the side of the road with the bonnet up . No good for any of us.

    So prior to that I was having some issues with ruff idle and a miss every now and again that was probably fowled plugs.

    So I didn't want that happening again so I fitted a MSD Street Fire ignition with the Tach adaptor to my RRC and it has sorted the little issues I was having and runns sweet as now. I've still got it on std 0 dec ignition timing but I'll be winding up the advance soon. You know advance till she pings and back off a smidge .

    I don't mind sticking in MSD ignitions on older cars as they work great and it was the best modification I ever did to my sigma years ago.

    Cost $220 for the ignition and $80 for the tach adaptor and took half an hour to fit. All the original stuff is still there so if it does happen to crap itself its a 2 min job to plug in the old ignition.


    I was going to do a write up on it when I get some miles and a couple of tanks of gas through it and give some stats on the conversion.

    Here it is fitted just next to the coil behind the left side headlight.

    IMG_0003.jpg

    and a youtube video on MSDs

    MSD Ignition Controls - Playing with Fire - YouTube
    those MSD ignition controllers look great. The difference in spark gap is huge. For now I will stick with a Bosch/Lucas replacement though! If I ever decide to restore the sports rover, that will go in! Thanks for the idea Fisher X

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Pretty much. A mixture of LPG and air takes a higher voltage gradient across the plug gap to ionise the mixture and initiate a spark compared to petrol/air. Momentary lean mixtures on LPG can be a real hazard to forwards motion due to less ionisation available. And retarded timing means a higher cylinder pressure at the point of ignition so 10 degrees BTDC at idle assists low to medium speed power.

    Reduced plug gaps (0.7 to 0.8mm) helps a bit. The type of plug lead can cause odd running problems with LPG too due to resonances in the high voltage section.
    Are you suggesting that the issue could also be the LPG converter/vaporiser/reducer giving a lean mix to the engine @Beeutey? What system controls the converter? is it vacuum? or some mechanical part that gets fouled over time?

    Angus

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