Thread: Paint

Personally I wouldn't use Protec paints if they were the last company on earth as we used to use their paint exclusively at work - after corporate did a study on why machines were being painted so often they came to the conclusion we all knew to start with - the paint was garbage. Not sure if they have a budget range and a premium range but once bitten...

I've noticed Protec are hooked up with Dulon (acrylic), which I've used for 40 years (embarrassing) with great success.

Dunno what type of paint they were supplying your company Gav.

The most important thing if acrylic is used is to gradually blend in a high quality clear with each coat, with STRONG UV inhibitors, with solid colours. Metallics just need it on top.

Acrylic is so easy to use.

DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

I've noticed Protec are hooked up with Dulon (acrylic), which I've used for 40 years (embarrassing) with great success.

Dunno what type of paint they were supplying your company Gav.

The most important thing if acrylic is used is to gradually blend in a high quality clear with each coat, with STRONG UV inhibitors, with solid colours. Metallics just need it on top.

Acrylic is so easy to use.

DL

I've started using urethanes. I found the the old acrylic dulon didn't last very long (bird ****, sun ... everything damages it ). It sure is easy to touch up though! Metalics suck for ease of repair. Maybe I should find a "flat" blue of some sort and hit it with some "single shot" 2part urethane (ie: base and clear in one). I'll have a look around the bodywork forums and see what they think.

If I make it look to nice .... and spend to much money on it .... It'll really annoy me the next time it does something like rub against the scenery .... Or fall on its side

Originally Posted by 350RRC

I've noticed Protec are hooked up with Dulon (acrylic), which I've used for 40 years (embarrassing) with great success.

Dunno what type of paint they were supplying your company Gav.

DL

I've got a mate that ran a spray booth big enough to fit a semi in (Literally) and has used almost every brand and type of paint - don't ask him about Protec, his opinion is worse than mine. UV protection in their paint is almost non existant. It's not an issue any more as we don't use it now. It's coverage is also terrible.

I'll use Dulon next time the POS gets a makeover.

DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

I'll use Dulon next time the POS gets a makeover.

DL

absolutely spectacular finish ... glass like if you colour sand it.





This is hand sanded and polished Dulon with PPG clearcoat (acrylic) over the top. I painted it about 15years ago. It still look ok ... until you look closely. Within 4 years it was quite stained where tree sap and bird **** had touched it (I did colour sand it again a few times to bring the finish back). Its also very soft and easily damaged.

But hey .... I've had a car that looks ok for 15years now (rather than clearcoat pealing off in sheets). It also only cost me about $500 all up to paint the thing at the time ( Oneday I will have some money to spend to do something nicely ............... Maybe in another 20years ).

I was hoping the world had moved on a bit from Acrylic laquer. I know its illegal in a lot of countries these days due (due to the VOC's and overspray). It must still be available here though. Its actually best for the home tinkerer.... as anything with an activator is horrendously toxic.... Really, far to poisonous to even dream of using (I have an air fed mask I feed from a compressor running where there is no overspray. You also have to wear painters goggles, and cover every bit of exposed skin). I have also noticed 2pack (activated) paints make me feel really crook in the guts if I'm around them while they are curing ... ""or "gassing offf" ... this can take a couple of weeks. Even POR hardnose made me feel crook in the guts to use (it is activated). Hardeners are really nasty stuff.

Hmmm... I've almost convinced myself to use Dulon again

seeya,
shane L.

Killrust epoxy enamel in rattle cans.

Why bother spending more than you really have to on the POS?

If you want to thin it down and use stuff in the tin, dulux metalshield or killrust pretty much cheapest way to go for a rock-hard protective finish.

or thinned down u-pol (bedliner)

Originally Posted by Mercguy

Killrust epoxy enamel in rattle cans.

Why bother spending more than you really have to on the POS?

If you want to thin it down and use stuff in the tin, dulux metalshield or killrust pretty much cheapest way to go for a rock-hard protective finish.

or thinned down u-pol (bedliner)

Well... If I use something a little better..... The car should look quite nice.... But not too nice. I dont' want it to look to much of a ****box or it'll start to attract police attention (boss women is getting to the point where she doesn't want to get into it).

I've just found this one ...



1982 Land Rover Range Rover for Sale | ClassicCars.com | CC-1107010

tuscan blue .... that looks to be a nice flat non-metalic colour. Way nicer than "faded pale blue metalic" most early 90's classics seem to be.

seeya,
Shane L.