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So I got it started again. Had to plug the old ecu in and get it sort of running/firing, then reconnect the new ECU.
It ran rough. And then pow.. stalled.
Checked everything again, turns over with no fire. Swapped ECUs again, nothing.
Wound engine over to TDC, lifted the dizzy cap and the rotor was pointing a quarter out! WTH is going on with this car?
I'm just looking at Rave now and see how it's driven and try and work some thing out.
never mind
Nope, just the drive gear, it bolts on in front of the timing chain. Not a big job to whip off the timing cover and replace. Failure is sometimes caused by previous mechanic fitting the timing gear and spacer incorrectly, there is an oil slinging groove that only works with the gear fitted the right way round. I suppose the distributor gear is badly worn too. That's even easier to replace of course.Quote:
Originally Posted by Konradical
So yeah I pulled it and this is what it looks like. From what you were saying it seems to be around the right way, but could have been filled with old solid oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Distributor gear doesn't seem to have any wear on it, other than what I would consider normal.
Timing chain feels a little slack and from what I can currently see, the timing gears have a slight bit of wear on the teeth.
Now I'm this far into the pits of hell (this engine) is there anything else I should look into and maybe just do while here.
Even though money is tight, I want this thing to get me to Adelaide towing a trailer and for the sake of two mores hours labour on this fine 40 degree day, should I pull it back to the cam and see what the lines are like? Or just do the minimum and wait out for when it does eventually need a rebuild.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a5ee139db4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...52cf945943.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2e9766d02.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c857fcad71.jpg
Cams don't fail catastrophically, so just ignore it for now. Just found a couple of previously uploaded pics describing the oiling problem.
Attachment 145196Attachment 145197
The maximum allowable timing chain slop is 4.7mm at the top of the top gear, bottom gear locked. Occasionally you'll find one worn enough to skip teeth, runs kinda funny when it does. Gears run for 500K so a bit of wear is no biggie.
What was the oiling problem caused by? There is a bit of solid black oil in the groove, so maybe it wasnt getting proper lubrication. I'm a little paranoid about the oil pressure, especially when hot and at idle. It will barely hover above 20Psi at idle and can drop off sometimes.
Wondering if this has caused the issue with the drive gear..
Still not convinced this is the sole reason the car doesn't run properly.
This is the list of stuff I have chosen to do;
Distributor drive gear
Rebuild oil pump (relief valve and pump gear)
Sump gasket
The two heater hoses being the water pump/timing cover
Rebuild power steering pump
Distributor O ring
Front main seal
And cover gasket.
Will check the chain tension as per bee utey and that may also be on the cards.
I have been using Penrite HPR 30, was thinking of heading back down to the HPR15 or something.
Let's hope there is a Land Rover god or spirit or whatever and they help guide this thing back to awesomeness..
HPR30 is fine. Don't go overboard on the oil pump, just gently face the cover plate and fit a new gasket. These things don't need huge oil pressure to survive. Plan on fitting some new bearing shells some time in the future. Lubrication failure is often a sign of missed oil changes in the past, not a lot you can do about it now except maybe drop the sump and clean it out thoroughly.
My wife's old P76 (similar engine) did over 350K on HPR30 and when it got a little slack ran on HPR40 instead. New shells at 420K and it was like new again.
So after nearly three weeks, working when I can and only getting it finished this morning, the Rangie is back together again..
And guess what?
Same old story!
It took me ages to get oil pressure up, no matter how many times or ways I tried to prime it.
Then, the same old ECU swap challenge. Will run without fuel pump connected on one ecu and then will not run at all on the other.
Any other ideas for things to try test that I haven't already covered?
The best way to get up oil pressure on those things is to spin the oil pump with a power drill and a suitable adaptor, before fitting the dissy. You can't damage the bearings that way. Sorry I have no idea about the running though.
