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Thread: RRC Headlight Relays - or is it D1's?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Hi All,

    Interesting post ....

    AK83 - 1) what brand of LED globes did you buy as replacement for the front and rear globes.

    ......
    Philips(s) both.
    Very expensive Ultinons up front($200+) .. but I still think worth the $s.
    you can get cheaper still nice looking appropriate LEDs H4s .. note the shielded LED chip design ... I got some cheapos off ebay for my father's Ford Exploder work OK too. With the D1, there's not a lot of room behind the headlight for heatsinks and stuff, and they all seem to have rather large bulky heatsinks. Main reason I got the Philips(back then) was that they had diagrams indicating physical dimensions, and I was certain they'd fit. I reckon about 10mm of space between heatsink and rear of front panel behind the light.

    for rear lights just whatever philips branded dual filaments. I also got another pair (from brightlights or some such website) and they're way too bright on the taillight circuit, and hence don't differentiate enough between tail and brake! Philips are perfect. Other than the immediacy of how the light comes on/off, you wouldn't know they were leds. globe brightness is just about perfect.

    I've posted some images of the globes that were too bright, as well as the philips globes in some thread somewhere.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #12
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    RRC definitly for sure with relays or melty melty will happen at some point for sure

  3. #13
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    With the old std globes that desperately needed updated wiring, I used to see about 13.5v on the volt meter prior to changing headlights and tailights to LEDs(in fact LEDs all round other than the high mount brake light .. only to keep the cruise control operational!)

    Does this mean that if the Hi level bulb fails one doesn't have Cruise Control, or am I misunderstanding the situation?

    I'm not that over familiar with LR D1 electrics, or even familiar.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Does this mean that if the Hi level bulb fails one doesn't have Cruise Control, or am I misunderstanding the situation?

    I'm not that over familiar with LR D1 electrics, or even familiar.
    More likely i think you will find is your cruise will not cancel when you tap the brakes due to the bulbs not having enough resistance

  5. #15
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    Cruise will not activate due to the lack of resistance from the LEDs.

    I don't mind the filament bulb in the highmount, as it's easy to change, but I was having blown brake light bulb(mainly RHS) seemed like every other week, and they are painful to change.
    Fitted all three brake globes with LEDs and of course cruise wouldn't work!

    Doh! moment came .. most cruise controls work off the brake light circuit to cancel when brake are applied .. LED is a diode, so incomplete circuit on one sense.
    I bought some resistors to fit in parallel, then thought (doh! me dufus! .. fit globe back into highmount .. 2 sec job!) .. resisitors now just sitting looking shiny and new.

    Now the lack of operation of the cruise control will be down to one blown bulb, or a fuse.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  6. #16
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    Thank you AK. Have had no problem with the light in 23 years (original bulb) which is a bit remarkable seeing as how it's on a door that usually gets slammed quite hard, so LR evidently got something right in it's design.

    Seems a weird setup when other non-pertinent things may not work because of blown bulbs.


    Did have intermittent probs for years with malfunctioning Bumper lamps, red & amber, until one day I got fed up with it & made a concerted effort to see wots wot under there. A small twist of the cable would seem to rectify the problem

    There are two connectors per bulb & I reckon the inner ones were dodgy from day 1 in '95 in that they appeared "just plugged in". Cleaned & WD 40d' all & made sure connectors were clipped back & not had a problem since. Union Meeting at Land Rover Plant probably & was an incompleted/uninspected job.

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