Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 29 of 29

Thread: swivel grease

  1. 7th January 2019, 08:59 AM #21
    DoubleChevron's Avatar
    DoubleChevron
    DoubleChevron is offline YarnMaster Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
    Posts
    3,855
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Moreys is pretty ordinary, its just a high molecular weight oil with little if any EP additives.
    It's not something I'd use.
    You are much better off using a GL5/6 diff oil. The point loading of a CV ball is bloody high and diff oils have a decent EP add package.

    Ideally CV's need lubricating solids like moly, but Landy CV's have survived for years on diff oil alone.

    One Shot is a 00 grease with minimal moly, IIRC is only around 2% so not particularly robust either.

    This is all interesting. Given the suckers seem to last until they get rusty ... or a locked borg warner TC shatters them..... They must be quite robust. I image the fact its such a clean environment with no rubber boots that split is one of the reasons they last so well in oil (even when the oil is left empty for extended periods of time ). I'm going to give the liquid grease a go. If I end up rebuilding the swivels and seals, I'll just run oil (oil is so much simpler than messing around with everything else).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 8th January 2019, 11:34 AM #22
    Rick1970's Avatar
    Rick1970
    Rick1970 is offline Master Subscriber
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dungowan
    Posts
    915
    Total Downloaded
    0
    My D1 swivels are filled with a moly based grease and 80/w90 GL5 oil mix atm, no problems and leak free, atm anyway
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 8th January 2019, 05:07 PM #23
    DoubleChevron's Avatar
    DoubleChevron
    DoubleChevron is offline YarnMaster Supporter
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Ballarat,Vic,Aus
    Posts
    3,855
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Man I suck .... I purchased new output shaft seals for the transfer case (as they obviously forked the the damn car around at the place that did the repair quote from its tailshaft, trashing the seal in the transfer case). So I ordered new seals on sunday through roverlord on ebay. I sent mario a message asking if he had the felt seals .... and he chucked them in as well..... And they were here this morning at 8:00am .... Amazing!

    I ordered two seals to change both while its out ........... Fortunately I ordered two as I suck at this like everything else ... I just could get the seal to push straight in cleanly and evenly .... so I'm unsure if I damaged it (so I'll keep the 2nd incase it leaks and I have to change it again). I usually push seals in with either the old seal, or a perfectly fitting socket. However in this case even the largest 3/4" socket I have wasn't big enough.

    Oh ... BTW: Finally some quality with Land Rover parts. The seals have "England" cast into them and they are a lovely soft feeling brown rubber type material that appears to have a double sealing lip with a fine coating of grease pushed between the two seal lips. Nice!

    Does everyone else turn up seal insertion tools ? It always amazing that I stuff up everything that no-one else seems to have a problem with

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 9th January 2019, 06:19 AM #24
    Rick1970's Avatar
    Rick1970
    Rick1970 is offline Master Subscriber
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Dungowan
    Posts
    915
    Total Downloaded
    0

    swivel grease

    Yep, usually make seal insertion tools if necessary. I find a bad fitting socket is the best way of stuffing a new seal up.
    '93 D1 V8 auto
    '93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
    '95 D1 V8 auto......gone
    '86 V8 RRC.....gone
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 9th January 2019, 07:33 AM #25
    4bee's Avatar
    4bee
    4bee is offline Cynical Moi?
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
    Posts
    13,349
    Total Downloaded
    0
    FWIW.


    I have found that the Series Hub Nut Tube spanner in reverse can make a good seal 'pusher inner' but not had to try it on the D1` With an appropriate rubber washer or soft material in between of course.

    Am I generalising? Dunno.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 11th March 2019, 04:19 PM #26
    Baggy's Avatar
    Baggy
    Baggy is offline Master
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    511
    Total Downloaded
    0

    swivel greese

    Hi All,

    just following on from Shane's post I looked at my swivel housings in my 92 RRC.

    I used 80 - 90 gear oil and mixture Morley's oil stabilizer.

    I couldn't get oil to fill in it just kept flowing out no matter how gentle on the hand pump I was.

    I tried filling from halfway (where you check oil level) but no better luck.

    Landrover manuals say holds approx 350mm (from memory) but I know nowhere near that amount got in there.

    Is there a trick .... or I'm just missing something obvious.

    thanks Baggy
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 11th March 2019, 07:36 PM #27
    Bradtot's Avatar
    Bradtot
    Bradtot is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Two Rocks WA
    Posts
    1,361
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Did you have the steering either far left or far right to open the fill hole bigger?
    Range Rovers Have Charactors inside them
    LROCWA Ex member 23 years
    1971 Series 2A
    2004 Discovery2a V8 Auto
    2003 Discovery2a TD5 Manual
    1982 4door man (sadly now gone)
    1989 Vogue auto
    2011 TDV8 Vogue
    What would life be without a Rangie?


    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 12th March 2019, 05:59 AM #28
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,519
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yes - turn to full lock, to bring the hole as close as possible to in line with the line of the axle. On the RR that would be right lock for the right hub, I think.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 14th March 2019, 03:53 PM #29
    Baggy's Avatar
    Baggy
    Baggy is offline Master
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Bradtot & JDNSW

    That's why we have brains trusts on this EXCELLENT site.
    Honest answer .... NO .... and I had a Haynes manual that did not mention that fact as well.

    I've a meeting tonight and will check them properly tomorrow.

    Thank you to both of you .... may have saved me an expensive bill as I am planning a little trip down south and
    am doing some pre maintenance work prior to trip

    Cheers

    Baggy
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
« 3.9 V8 Popping and Rattling under load | Temperature gauge on dash not working »

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!