Thread: Standard or +1" Spring Options

LRA

Originally Posted by Tombie

LRA

Thanks..

I checked their website out and will have to give them a call.

Have you considered rear airbags in the springs, to allow for adjustment depending on what you are doing?

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Have you considered rear airbags in the springs, to allow for adjustment depending on what you are doing?

I might consider them if I can't get a constant load spring in the height I want.

Not heaps keen on them though, experienced them with my commodore ute and the set up a family friend has in their Jackaroo.

What would be nice is a air spring set up, then could adjust to meet the need.

Fair enough. Very happy with our airbags.
Also, have you considered progressive rather than constant load springs? Progressives give a softer ride over small bumps, but then firm up as the spring compresses.

No I haven't. Thanks for the tip. Il add that to the questions I will ask LRA. Might be able to match them up with some airbags.

I have noticed so far that not many spring makers that I have come across so far will take the time to talk through these options. Don't think they get too many people talking about old Range Rovers to often.

Originally Posted by Konradical

No I haven't. Thanks for the tip. Il add that to the questions I will ask LRA. Might be able to match them up with some airbags.

I have noticed so far that not many spring makers that I have come across so far will take the time to talk through these options. Don't think they get too many people talking about old Range Rovers to often.

You might find something useful on here, although I haven't searched Range Rover on it myself.

Official Site

Sent from my A1601 using AULRO mobile app

take your vehicle to a weighbridge fully fueled, fully laden with your 'travelling' items (all of it)

Get both axles measured individually and the vehicle.

While you are there, get your tape measure, measure from the CENTRE of the hub flange (hub cap) to the top of the wheel arch on each corner, write down the measurements.

Go home.

unload your vehicle. sit down. have a cuppa.

Look for a suspension specialist (not a generic shopfront) and enquire about custom springs.

You may need to go to their workshop with the vehicle laden, if they wish to measure the trapped height at full load.

What they most likely will do, is pull the springs and measure the free length and the compressed length and the rate (kg/cm)

With your arch measurements and your axle weights and GVM figure, you now have the correct baseline to select a spring or have a set manufactured (which actually costs no more than a normal set off the shelf in my experience).

What you may not have realized, is that you more than likely will have to change your dampers.

If the fully extended damper length and the free length of the spring don't match, you're going to need to replace the dampers.

Regardless of whether or not you need to do that, you almost certainly WILL have to revalve them, unless you happen to have adjustable Koni 88's or Raids at the correct matching length - in which case you still may have to revalve them, or maybe change the viscosity of the dampers hydraulic fluid.

This is actually the only "proper" way to correctly match suspension to your load carrying requirements.
Any engineer will tell you the same thing, and any true suspension specialist will also likely recommend you change your rear antirollbar to cope with the fully-laden condition.

ALL of this work has drawbacks.

when the vehicle is completely unladen, the suspension will ride firmer in the rear. That is regardless of whether or not you use progressive or linear rate springs.

The rear ride height at unladen condition will be more than your 1"

If you haven't already, swap the a-frame balljoint out for a maxidrive adjustable one, so your trailing arm geometry is corrected.

Consider rotating your swivel housings (slotted & pinned or buy new replacements with the caster altered rotation)

Get rid of the master vac unit on your brakes and replace it with a hydroboost. (for load safety and performance with larger diameter tyres than standard)

Chucking in springs is cheap.

Doing it properly isn't - and never has been I might add. It's not the springs, it's all the other stuff that has to be changed to get them to work as intended.