Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

I had already bought single lip hub seas but thought the dual lip seals would be better so this morning I ordered a pair and they arrived this afternoon.
However the second lip protrudes from the face of the seal.
Dual lip seal on left, single lip seal on right.
Attachment 194017 Attachment 194018
The hub is deep enough for the dual lip seal to be pressed in until the second lip is flush with the face of the hub and therefore not foul on the face of the stub axle.
Attachment 194020
The tool in the manual gives the impression that this is what the tool would achieve.
Attachment 194019
I think I will use the old seal I removed as a tool to push the dual lip seal in ensuring I don’t push it in too far.
Is this what’s intended for the dual lip seal part no RTC3511.

Phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

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can you post a photo of the diagram.

Phil

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Hi Phil,

Here are the diagrams. The first I didn't look at too closely at first because it kinda matched your description of venting to the air cleaner, which is matched by the (wrong) flow direction of the filter specified in diagram 2.

Of course.............the circulation goes the other way in reality and I still think that after the flame traps the fumes should vent to the intake after the butterflies in the carbs.

I hope you can read them ok.

cheers, DL

Attachment 194039

Attachment 194040

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

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Is this what’s intended for the dual lip seal part no RTC3511.

Phil

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Did the bearings have just oil in them or grease?

It's been a long time now but every RRC front wheel bearing I've ever seen ('74 & '81) was oil lubed, no grease at all. My whole front diff is now County and they're oil lubed too.

There was a changeover point some time after 1980 where the arrangement inside the hub changed and the bearings were greased, may have coincided with one shot grease specced for the swivel housing.

In any case AFAIR the single lip seal is for greased bearings and the RTC3511 is for oil fed bearings.

AFAIR that protruding bit on the walls of the 3511 is where it seats to and the outer lip pushes on the face of the hub flange to give added protection against dirt and water ingress, which is not so necessary for greased bearings.

There were 2 ways of converting later RRC's and Disco's to oiled bearings which I won't get into here, but a search of this site will reveal that info.

Do the swivel housings have oil or one shot grease in them? Do they have a filler plug, level plug and drain plug? If so they would have had oil originally.

It looks to me that the wrong seals have been fitted in the past and that's why they're leaking oil.

DL

After further research I have the following information.
RTC3508 original single lip seal pressed in flush with the back face of the hub.


RTC3511. Dual lip seal pressed in with tool 18G 1349 so that the second seal is flush with the back face of the hub.


See instructions below from KLR Automotive


Overview
This is the only inner hub seal worth using on any Genuine Land Rover. This is a double lip and double spring design made especially for oil filled hubs. Fits all coil sprung live beam Genuine Land Rovers up to and including the Puma Defender. Fits all Range Classic, Discovery 1, 4x4 and 6x6 Perenties. Fits Series III from 1980. Fits front and rear hubs. Use this seal wherever the wheel bearing RTC3429 is used.
The seal is seated so the outer lip is flush with the back of the hub. This seal is fitted dry; no sealant required.


FRC8221 Multi lip seal from July 1985 onwards that has a seal that runs on the face of the stub axle.
See video below.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1e7gRE...dWIgc2VhbHM%3D

So based on the above for the dual lip seal RTC3511, I cut the lip off the original seal and used it as a “tool” to press the dual lip seal into the hub until it was flush with the hub.
Attachment 194059

Phil

I have reassembled both hubs with the dual lip seals.
This is the inside of the RHS hub and the swivel hub assembly.
Attachment 194103 Attachment 194104
They required a fair bit of cleaning and some judicial use of Brake Clean but it all went back together OK.
Both hubs filled with oil and the Hummus has been replaced with real oil in the diff.

Phil

Good that you caught the ''hummus'' before it turned into ''tahini''. [biggrin]

Fitted a Davies Craig thermo fan controller.
Attachment 194212 Attachment 194213
For the time being I have just looped up all the wires and cable tied them until I have it running and tested, then I'll recut them and tidy it all up.

Phil

Well, it's time to repair the drivers door.
I knew it had rust just below the bottom hinge.
Attachment 194316
While annoying, it is something reasonably easy to repair.
I also knew that the quarter vent frame was a little rusty (OK, may be a lot rusty) but this is not a simple fabrication job.
Attachment 194317
I can buy a pair (the left one is also rusty but not as bad) from Machinor.
Products — Machinor
The pair are GBP 220 plus 20 postage (about $497 AUD).
Does anyone know of an alternative?

Phil

Yesterday I removed all of the bolts that hold the window frame in place according to my workshop manual, but I still couldn't pull the frame out as there was something preventing it's removal.
Then I looked at the parts manual and it shows a pressed channel that is bolted to the outside face of the swagged brace that runs between the window channels.
Attachment 194333
Part 392182 is the culprit that has to be removed first.
Access is not great but it's only three 1/4? UNF screws, BUT, these screws are recessed in between the swages of the brace.
Here's a photo of a 7/16? socket on the head of the screw.

Attachment 194332
Because sockets usually have a taper on the inside down to the hex recess, the socket is prevented from engaging on the by the taper and also the swages.
Attachment 194334 Attachment 194335
I had an old spare socket so I ground the face back and the ground a chamfer around the outside to allow it to fit better in with the swages.
Attachment 194336
Then it was relatively easy to remove the rusty screws.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

....................
I also knew that the quarter vent frame was a little rusty (OK, may be a lot rusty) but this is not a simple fabrication job.
Attachment 194317
I can buy a pair (the left one is also rusty but not as bad) from Machinor.
Products ? Machinor
The pair are GBP 220 plus 20 postage (about $497 AUD).
Does anyone know of an alternative?

Phil

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Hi Phil,

I have been down this path many moons ago.

The 81 body I used had a pair in mint condition, which I still have.

The 74 pair were not too bad so I removed them then removed the glass (clear on the 74, factory tint on all the 81 frames).

I got the 74 frames absolutely rust free and applied the best anti rust coating AFAIR then glued the tinted glass in with sika.

One is totally munted now, the other half munted.

When the time comes I'll be using the 81 frames after I get them plated then painted.

The stainless ones are tempting.............. is there a discount for more than 1 pair?

Repair option................ Not my idea, someone on here had the same prob and worked out that early 4 door QV frames could be used with the straight ends extended a little.

He may have just glued the little extensions onto the glass. I pretty sure the info is somewhere in the RRC section if you want to do a search.

cheers, David L