Well the splines cleaned up well with the Metal Rescue.
Attachment 193753 Attachment 193754
Now on to find a seal.
Phil
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Well the splines cleaned up well with the Metal Rescue.
Attachment 193753 Attachment 193754
Now on to find a seal.
Phil
The front shaft should have a tubular rubber bellows that goes over the joint and is secured to each piece of the shaft by a hose clamp, i.e. totally sealed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil 850
From memory the service procedure involves unbolting the diff end of the prop shaft, removing the bellows, marking the two pieces of the shaft so it will go back together spline wise exactly the same, unscrew the seal retainer, separate the prop shaft and greasing the splines. Re-assembly is the reverse, taking note of the marking.
LR used a bellows on the front shaft coz the 'seal', splines and the joint are very exposed, facing into the direction of travel and all the grit and water that entails. From memory the 'seal' in mine is felt.
The rear shaft only has a grease nipple coz it faces the other way.
It was pretty common to fit aftermarket complete prop shafts back in the day it the UJ's and splines were worn coz they were relatively cheap so variations on the original layout can be expected.
DL
I rang Hardy Spicer today to order the seal for the spline.
They are $44 for the “kit” (DCK 30A) which includes the seal and the metal screwed retainer.
As I have the retainer, I would be paying a lot for a simple neoprene seal.
So, if cork was originally acceptable, I thought that felt may also be acceptable.
I cut out a ring of felt and slipped it over the spline and into the retaining collar.
Attachment 193778 Attachment 193779
I think I will soak it in oil then grease the spline and assemble it all.
The classic will unlikely ever go off road so it should be good for many years.
Phil
Phil, you're an absolute champion — thank you so much for documenting your restoration journey here. I'm new to this forum and new to Rangies (I acquired my own late last year) and I'm right at the start.
Great to be among such a helpful, thoughtful and experienced community.
I have now installed both front and rear universal shafts.
I didn’t fit new universal joints as they were moving smoothly without any stiffness so just pumped some fresh grease into them.
The splines with fresh grease and the felt seal slides very smoothly.
Attachment 193873 Attachment 193874
Another job ticked off the list.
Phil
When I bought the RRC it had a 350 Holley installed which I have retained.
The vent line from the fuel tank is connected to the bottom of a Charcoal canister (well I think that’s what it is) but the other connection was not plumbed to anything.
I have read through the Emission section of the workshop manual that I have and my RRC seems to be a bit of a “bitser”.
So, I have connected the rocker cover vents with a piece of copper pipe and then placed a tee at the end.
One branch of the tee goes to the air filter and the other branch has a Flame Trap and then connected to the charcoal canister.
With the engine running, fumes from the engine crankcase should be sucked into the engine and any fumes from the fuel tank should be sucked through the flame trap and into the engine.
As fuel is consumed from the fuel tank, air can flow from the engine air filter back through the flame trap and into the fuel tank.
Attachment 193948
Does this sound like a sensible approach.
The classic is supposed to comply with ADR27, and I think this does (or near enough).
Phil
Hi Phil, that doesn’t look like the charcoal canister on my 80 Rangie, or any I have seen in ads or photos of others. Mine is black plastic with three connections on the top, think the connections may be marked indicating what they connect to, will check in daylight tomorrow.
Cheers, Woolly.
Hi Phil,
Woolly is right, that's not the original canister which has 3 spigots on top. I have the diagrams for it and will take a pic and post all the relevant info over the weekend.
There is a known risk of spontaneous combustion of the original canisters if something is 'awry', they contain activated charcoal.
DL
Hi Phil, The top of mine is marked T, P and C, which according to the manual, stands for connections to the tank, the purge line, and the carby vent. The hose from the rocker cover, I believe, should feed into the air cleaner via a flame trap. Don't know about RWC inspections in NSW, but the place that did mine wanted to see them all connected. If you need the correct canister, I think All Fourx4 have an old Rangie camper in their wrecking yard.
Cheers, Woolly.
Thanks Woolly for doing the legwork on the canister and markings.
My POS isn't stock but the crankcase vent line from the rocker cover goes into the carby immediately before it mates with the intake manifold, AFTER the butterflies.
If you hook it up earlier in the inlet path than that it will fill the throat of the carb with an oily residue.
DL
