Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

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Originally Posted by Woolly

Hi Phil, that doesn’t look like the charcoal canister on my 80 Rangie, or any I have seen in ads or photos of others. Mine is black plastic with three connections on the top, think the connections may be marked indicating what they connect to, will check in daylight tomorrow.
Cheers, Woolly.

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Hi Woolly
I only called it a charcoal canister based on the picture in the parts book.
Attachment 193965
The diagram on the left is for Europe but it also references Australia in the table at the bottom.
Ultimately, all charcoal canisters do the same thing in collecting the petrol fumes from the fuel tank and carby float bowls and then purging the canister by sucking the contents into the air filter with carby vacuum.
The engine “blow by” is also plumbed into the air filter.
I just connected the two together to save an additional fitting on the air filter base.
I put the flame trap in the outlet of the canister so the a carby backfire wouldn’t go back to the fuel tank.

Phil

Hi Phil,

The genuine owner's manual that came with my POS shows the flame traps (one on each RC, connected then teed to a single line) and a breather filter in that single line before it enters the intake system.

Breather filter to be replaced as a service item every 24,000 miles.

That would keep oily residue out of the intake.

DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

Hi Phil,

The genuine owner's manual that came with my POS shows the flame traps (one on each RC, connected then teed to a single line) and a breather filter in that single line before it enters the intake system.

Breather filter to be replaced as a service item every 24,000 miles.

That would keep oily residue out of the intake.

DL

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Thank you
I did buy the filter based on the part number in the parts book but what I received was a simple in line fuel filter with 5/16” nipples that are too small for the 1/2” breather lines.
I might have to adapt something so I can install it.

Phil

As suggested by 350RRC I have installed an in line filter.
The end fittings were only 1/4” so I fitted some 1/4” fuel line to each end.
Attachment 193995
This was then a neat fit inside the 1/2” vent hose.
Attachment 193996

Strangely, after all the faffing about to ensure fuel and engine fumes are recycled back into the engine, there is a vent elbow in the back of the block with a hose connected that vents engine “gases directly into the atmosphere.
Attachment 193997

Phil

Both front wheel hubs are leaking oil so I am going to replace the rear seal in them and while doing this I will also replace the gasket between the stub axle and swivel hub just to eliminate that this may also be the culprit.
First step is to drain the differential housing.
The PO must have been Middle Eastern as the diff was filled with Hummus.
Attachment 193998 Attachment 193999

On the the positive side though, he/she had attached a small magnet to the end of the drain plug to catch any ferrous material in the housing.
Attachment 194000
This is after I cleaned it up a bit but there wasn’t much metal attached to it. Perhaps it’s all suspended in the Hummus [bighmmm]

Phil

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

As suggested by 350RRC I have installed an in line filter.
The end fittings were only 1/4” so I fitted some 1/4” fuel line to each end.
Attachment 193995
This was then a neat fit inside the 1/2” vent hose.
Attachment 193996

Strangely, after all the faffing about to ensure fuel and engine fumes are recycled back into the engine, there is a vent elbow in the back of the block with a hose connected that vents engine “gases directly into the atmosphere.
Attachment 193997

Phil

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My bad, got a bit confused by your original description about it venting out to the air cleaner.

From the owner's manual.............. That is the engine vent INLET, goes from a spigot on the air cleaner to the back of the engine with an inline filter. Yes the hose out of the block has an elbow in it.

The owner's manual describes it as a circulation system ............ air in from the air cleaner, via the filter to the back of the block then out via the rocker covers to the carbs. The diagram matches this now I have my glasses on.

The manual's description of the direction of flow through the filter is wrong.

There

DL

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

Both front wheel hubs are leaking oil ...................

Phil

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How much oil came out of the diff? Overfill is the most common cause for the hubs to leak.

F&R diffs each take 1.7 litres. A lot of 2 door F&R diffs have a separate level plug that comes out vertically from the side of the cast housing of the snout, the correct level is to the bottom of the hole the plug sits in.

This level is a fair bit lower than the fill hole on the front of the diff.

I'd just put 1.7 litres in it and do some k's and see if the hubs still leak. The fact that both hubs are leaking at the same time says there is one common reason for both to do that.

I have had this exact same problem with the 81 diff I put in my POS and that was the cure.

cheers, DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

How much oil came out of the diff? Overfill is the most common cause for the hubs to leak.

F&R diffs each take 1.7 litres. A lot of 2 door F&R diffs have a separate level plug that comes out vertically from the side of the cast housing of the snout, the correct level is to the bottom of the hole the plug sits in.

This level is a fair bit lower than the fill hole on the front of the diff.

I'd just put 1.7 litres in it and do some k's and see if the hubs still leak. The fact that both hubs are leaking at the same time says there is one common reason for both to do that.

I have had this exact same problem with the 81 diff I put in my POS and that was the cure.

cheers, DL

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Dave, about the right amount of oil came out of the diff by judgment of the level in the container I transferred it to.
I pulled the right hand hub off this afternoon and inside the disk and the outside of the swivel housing is very dirty and relatively wet oil near the hub seal.
The oil that I drained from the swivel housing was dirty but not beige (Hummus) like was in the diff, so the seal at the end of the axle housing is doing its job.
I pre bought single lip seals for the hub but now that I have it off, it looks like a dual lip seal.
I might see how quickly I can get the dual lip seals tomorrow.

Phil

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

My bad, got a bit confused by your original description about it venting out to the air cleaner.

From the owner's manual.............. That is the engine vent INLET, goes from a spigot on the air cleaner to the back of the engine with an inline filter. Yes the hose out of the block has an elbow in it.

The owner's manual describes it as a circulation system ............ air in from the air cleaner, via the filter to the back of the block then out via the rocker covers to the carbs. The diagram matches this now I have my glasses on.

The manual's description of the direction of flow through the filter is wrong.

There

DL

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Presumably the vacuum at the carbs must be greater than the vacuum in the air cleaner otherwise no air would move at all.
I thought the whole idea was to suck the “blowby” out of the engine and burn it through the carby So it doesn’t leak to atmosphere or build pressure and cause engine seals to weep.

can you post a photo of the diagram.

Phil

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Originally Posted by Phil 850

Presumably the vacuum at the carbs must be greater than the vacuum in the air cleaner otherwise no air would move at all.
I thought the whole idea was to suck the “blowby” out of the engine and burn it through the carby So it doesn’t leak to atmosphere or build pressure and cause engine seals to weep.

can you post a photo of the diagram.

Phil

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It also keeps the engine far cleaner inside. I have been watching some of the youtube shows like junkyard digs and vice grip garage. The sediment, wear and crap in old engines that don't have a PCV valve is amazing. Fitting a PCV to any old car (rather than a road tube) is probably a good move :)