Thread: Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

The rangie had been backed (or dropped off a ledge) and bent the back right corner of the bumper up and the cap into the rear corner panel.
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With some formers cut out of 30 mm ply and my pipe bender, I managed to improve the shape of the bumper.
Adjusted the mounting bracket in the right hand cap, bit of satin black and it looks a lot better.
Not perfect, but better.
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Thought I’d start cleaning it out.
Removed the spare wheel, rear seat belts and tool cover.
Folded the back seat forward and removed the carpet and wheel arch covers. All were decrepit and went in the bin.
The floor mats and backing are in pretty good condition so I gave them a hose and scrub down.
Swept out all of the back and a quick vacuum and it looks pretty tidy.
Only a couple of small surface rust spots.
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Now the scrubbing starts and the removal of the contact adhesive from the wheel arches

Took the aluminium door treads off to have a look at the door seal channel.
As expected, the channel has rusted away in a few places.
Rimmer Bros have the and reasonably priced but I would have to add postage.
Sill Beading Strip - 390629P - Aftermarket | Rimmer Bros

Are these available in Australia at a reasonable price.

Phil

I need those as well for both sides, so let me know if you find any…

Howdy Phil,the lads at M.R Automotive near Brisbane may have stock of that profile,as they produce awesome alloy tailgates.the track is not normally included with their kit, but they did send me one as had asked if they had anything to suit.
Having ordered that same lower door seal track from famous four,comparing the profiles,they look very similar,worth a crack
Cheers Westy

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Given the channels would have been originally spot welded in, how would one go about attaching new ones? Drill holes and weld in, then grind down…?

Yes true,they were spot welded along the channel,usually the only places still holding on after 20+ years of water

An option is to drill and rivet them in,but the narrow channels are too small to accomodate a standard hand held rivet gun nose,so used a 10mm drill bit to widen the channel track enough to punch a rivet flush in 5 spots along rail.




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Hi Stu
Yes, initially I was going to drill holes in the channel and then MIG it on, but I was concerned about the welding burning the paint off and then having a new rust problem in the future.

However I think I’ll rivet them on as Westy has suggested.

I also have to make the curved channel section at the front as well.
May be a bit tedious, but they are riveted on.
Thinking about that, I could weld little tags to the top of the channel and rivet it on. The door sill rubber would cover them over