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Thread: Phil's 82 Range Rover Classic

  1. #131
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    thanks for posting all of this. the lack of comments is because we are all in awe of your work, and have no suggestions to make

    seeya
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
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  2. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    thanks for posting all of this. the lack of comments is because we are all in awe of your work, and have no suggestions to make

    seeya
    Shane L.

    100%

    Loving watch this progress, and is informing me on how to tackle my/sons resto
    Cheers,
    Stu

    1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
    2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
    1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project

    Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
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  3. #133
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    Front axle offset ?

    From when I bought the RRC, I suspected that the front axle was offset to the left as the left hand wheel “filled “ out the guard more than the right, but I was not able to measure anything definitely.
    Today, while preparing to remove the whole front axle assembly, and with the springs and shocks out of the way I could measure from the brake disc to the chassis.
    Drivers side:- 380 mm
    15462D2C-F30A-4B3F-829C-151BFFB68C2A.jpg
    Passengers side:- 390 mm
    C81A71F0-DABC-49F2-9E50-8BEDAB4EFB57.jpg

    The panhard rod measures 820 mm.
    However, I noticed that the drivers side chassis rail is not perpendicular, so I put a spirit level against it and it is considerably off.
    F1083C32-1262-4583-958A-65552891473E.jpg
    When I adjust the level to be vertical, the movement at the bottom where the panhard rod bolt is visible it moves about ~5 mm.
    01B8B2CC-85EA-4056-A0FD-F956139137B3.jpg
    So, if I pack between the chassis rail and the bottom mount of the panhard rod mounting arm with approximately 2.5 mm of packing it should move the bottom of the panhard rod bracket ~5 mm and therefore pull the axle back on centre.

    Does this sound like an acceptable solution ?

    Regards
    Phil

  4. #134
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    It may be worth checking the width between the chassis rails in several places, just to confirm they are parallel, and also top and bottom distances equate - just to eliminate any possible 'problem'.

    If the measurements between the chassis rails are equal, perhaps the front end is bent from an impact or twisted.

    just worthwhile checking before moving ahead, at least that way you can make a clear determination if your solution will remedy the issue.
    Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
    MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
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  5. #135
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    Thanks Mercguy, yes, today I went through the chassis checking and the best that I could determine is that the chassis seems to have a local twist at the front RH spring seat and the panhard rod bracket.
    Perhaps it’s been hit in the front RH side and pushed the axle across and this has pulled the bottom of the panhard rod causing the local twist.
    I took the plunge and installed a 2.5 mm spacer between the panhard rod bracket and the chassis at the bottom bolt.
    C41F9F66-7BD8-4B07-8D3F-FE933F6A394D.jpg
    As the ratio of the bolt centres to the panhard rod is 2:1, this pulled the axle back 5 mm.
    The axle is now in the centre of the chassis, and as a second check, I plumbed down from the “hat” stiffener on the outside of the inner front guards, and the axle is on centre with them as well now.

    So it looks like it should be all good for the future alignment.

    Phil

  6. #136
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    Drivers floor and sill

    Well, I finally finished repairing the rust in the drivers side floor and replaced a section of the top of the sill
    5268947E-062C-49FB-83A9-27BC932E85DE.jpg CEFDDFA2-70FB-408E-9511-DBA7FA4A7D1B.jpg

    Hopefully this weekend I can fit the body side and the windscreen top rail and the structure will finally be back together .

    Phil

  7. #137
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    I’ Feeling a little euphoric, light headed even

    Well, tonight I fitted the drivers side body side that I recently repaired.
    Finally the body structure is going back together.
    79268810-847A-4B5D-B19F-20323D3AD935.jpg
    While there is still a lot to do, it’s heading in the right direction.
    But let’s not get too excited, there is still one rust/accident repair to be done.
    4BD97225-94A4-414A-A76D-C8AFB83FBBEE.jpg
    Just need to cut a couple of sections out of this and fold up replacements, weld, grind and that’s the last of the rust.

    Phil

  8. #138
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    The last of the rust (I hope)

    Well, I finally cut out the sections of rusted steel in the front inner wheel arch stiffener and replaced them with some sections I folded up.
    CB8E4911-902C-4A91-8D8F-07AE24A1E002.jpg
    Sections cut out.
    17F542A6-C6FA-4D20-B3ED-7F648930151E.jpg
    New pieces test fitted
    6CCFA961-E1A6-4567-93A3-B78701F878B7.jpg
    MIG and grinder work.
    FC477D84-2C37-4F76-9C04-B2FACCA4E9E1.jpg
    Zinc primer
    A1BB53D7-3AA5-45F8-A014-F5407313FBA8.jpg
    Because the drain hole for the scuttle directs the water onto the inner guard stiffener and there is nothing to stop the water entering the stiffener through the mounting holes for the mudguard attachment angle, I drilled some drain holes into the bottom of the stiffener.
    18BC39D0-CA60-4D8F-9B8E-8B87D2DC113D.jpg
    Where the bolts hold the stiffener to the fire wall, the stiffener has diaphragm plates inside of it which then separates the stiffener into individual compartments, so every compartment needs it’s own drain hole.
    I will spray rust proofing wax inside of these and all of the other closed sections of the body and chassis.

    Phil

  9. #139
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    Front suspension

    I have cleaned up and painted the front suspension and installed new Super Pro bushes and it now all back on the RRC.
    Nothing has been tightened up yet until it is at the correct ride height and then I’ll go through it all including the rear suspension and and make sure it is all OK.
    B9541290-B910-4F08-8BB2-E0D44F27738C.jpg CD8EF916-828A-4A37-915C-D81633513DFE.jpg

    The steering damper dust shield rubs on the track rod but I don’t see any alternative!
    8BE02A47-E266-4CE5-B4EC-3F67B226C52B.jpg

    I’m yet to overhaul the front hubs as there is oil on the discs, so I assume the hub seal is leaking.
    Once I pull them apart I’ll see what needs repair.

    Phil

  10. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil 850 View Post
    .........................

    I’m yet to overhaul the front hubs as there is oil on the discs, so I assume the hub seal is leaking.
    Once I pull them apart I’ll see what needs repair.

    Phil
    Hi Phil,

    IME the most likely cause of oil on discs on the front would be an overfill.

    On the earlier (dunno the change over year) there is a fill hole hole on the sheet metal round part of the diff and a vertical level hole in the cast part.

    The correct level is to the bottom of the level hole.

    I got caught out once by filling to the bottom of the fill hole and ended up with oil on the inside of the front tyres and on the discs. There was maybe 500ml too much oil in the diff.

    These days I just put the correct volume in the modded Hills garden sprayer and put that in the fill hole and all is good.

    There was nothing wrong with the seals.

    David L

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