thanks for posting all of this. the lack of comments is because we are all in awe of your work, and have no suggestions to make
seeya
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Cheers,
Stu
1993 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9lt - languishing
2 x 1981 3.5lt V8 2dr Range Rover
1958 Series 1 109" - "Bob" - COVID project
Who wants another politician as Head of State? Not me:
http://www.monarchist.org.au/
From when I bought the RRC, I suspected that the front axle was offset to the left as the left hand wheel “filled “ out the guard more than the right, but I was not able to measure anything definitely.
Today, while preparing to remove the whole front axle assembly, and with the springs and shocks out of the way I could measure from the brake disc to the chassis.
Drivers side:- 380 mm
15462D2C-F30A-4B3F-829C-151BFFB68C2A.jpg
Passengers side:- 390 mm
C81A71F0-DABC-49F2-9E50-8BEDAB4EFB57.jpg
The panhard rod measures 820 mm.
However, I noticed that the drivers side chassis rail is not perpendicular, so I put a spirit level against it and it is considerably off.
F1083C32-1262-4583-958A-65552891473E.jpg
When I adjust the level to be vertical, the movement at the bottom where the panhard rod bolt is visible it moves about ~5 mm.
01B8B2CC-85EA-4056-A0FD-F956139137B3.jpg
So, if I pack between the chassis rail and the bottom mount of the panhard rod mounting arm with approximately 2.5 mm of packing it should move the bottom of the panhard rod bracket ~5 mm and therefore pull the axle back on centre.
Does this sound like an acceptable solution ?
Regards
Phil
It may be worth checking the width between the chassis rails in several places, just to confirm they are parallel, and also top and bottom distances equate - just to eliminate any possible 'problem'.
If the measurements between the chassis rails are equal, perhaps the front end is bent from an impact or twisted.
just worthwhile checking before moving ahead, at least that way you can make a clear determination if your solution will remedy the issue.
Roads?.. Where we're going, we don't need roads...
MY92 RRC 3.9 Ardennes Green
MY93 RRC LSE 300tdi/R380/LT230 British Racing Green
MY99 D2 V8 Kinversand
Thanks Mercguy, yes, today I went through the chassis checking and the best that I could determine is that the chassis seems to have a local twist at the front RH spring seat and the panhard rod bracket.
Perhaps it’s been hit in the front RH side and pushed the axle across and this has pulled the bottom of the panhard rod causing the local twist.
I took the plunge and installed a 2.5 mm spacer between the panhard rod bracket and the chassis at the bottom bolt.
C41F9F66-7BD8-4B07-8D3F-FE933F6A394D.jpg
As the ratio of the bolt centres to the panhard rod is 2:1, this pulled the axle back 5 mm.
The axle is now in the centre of the chassis, and as a second check, I plumbed down from the “hat” stiffener on the outside of the inner front guards, and the axle is on centre with them as well now.
So it looks like it should be all good for the future alignment.
Phil
Well, I finally finished repairing the rust in the drivers side floor and replaced a section of the top of the sill
5268947E-062C-49FB-83A9-27BC932E85DE.jpg CEFDDFA2-70FB-408E-9511-DBA7FA4A7D1B.jpg
Hopefully this weekend I can fit the body side and the windscreen top rail and the structure will finally be back together.
Phil
Well, tonight I fitted the drivers side body side that I recently repaired.
Finally the body structure is going back together.
79268810-847A-4B5D-B19F-20323D3AD935.jpg
While there is still a lot to do, it’s heading in the right direction.
But let’s not get too excited, there is still one rust/accident repair to be done.
4BD97225-94A4-414A-A76D-C8AFB83FBBEE.jpg
Just need to cut a couple of sections out of this and fold up replacements, weld, grind and that’s the last of the rust.
Phil
Well, I finally cut out the sections of rusted steel in the front inner wheel arch stiffener and replaced them with some sections I folded up.
CB8E4911-902C-4A91-8D8F-07AE24A1E002.jpg
Sections cut out.
17F542A6-C6FA-4D20-B3ED-7F648930151E.jpg
New pieces test fitted
6CCFA961-E1A6-4567-93A3-B78701F878B7.jpg
MIG and grinder work.
FC477D84-2C37-4F76-9C04-B2FACCA4E9E1.jpg
Zinc primer
A1BB53D7-3AA5-45F8-A014-F5407313FBA8.jpg
Because the drain hole for the scuttle directs the water onto the inner guard stiffener and there is nothing to stop the water entering the stiffener through the mounting holes for the mudguard attachment angle, I drilled some drain holes into the bottom of the stiffener.
18BC39D0-CA60-4D8F-9B8E-8B87D2DC113D.jpg
Where the bolts hold the stiffener to the fire wall, the stiffener has diaphragm plates inside of it which then separates the stiffener into individual compartments, so every compartment needs it’s own drain hole.
I will spray rust proofing wax inside of these and all of the other closed sections of the body and chassis.
Phil
I have cleaned up and painted the front suspension and installed new Super Pro bushes and it now all back on the RRC.
Nothing has been tightened up yet until it is at the correct ride height and then I’ll go through it all including the rear suspension and and make sure it is all OK.
B9541290-B910-4F08-8BB2-E0D44F27738C.jpg CD8EF916-828A-4A37-915C-D81633513DFE.jpg
The steering damper dust shield rubs on the track rod but I don’t see any alternative!
8BE02A47-E266-4CE5-B4EC-3F67B226C52B.jpg
I’m yet to overhaul the front hubs as there is oil on the discs, so I assume the hub seal is leaking.
Once I pull them apart I’ll see what needs repair.
Phil
Hi Phil,
IME the most likely cause of oil on discs on the front would be an overfill.
On the earlier (dunno the change over year) there is a fill hole hole on the sheet metal round part of the diff and a vertical level hole in the cast part.
The correct level is to the bottom of the level hole.
I got caught out once by filling to the bottom of the fill hole and ended up with oil on the inside of the front tyres and on the discs. There was maybe 500ml too much oil in the diff.
These days I just put the correct volume in the modded Hills garden sprayer and put that in the fill hole and all is good.
There was nothing wrong with the seals.
David L
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks