Thread: Instrument housing rear cover removal

The cover slides forwards towards the front of the vehicle away from the binnacle as its edges slip inside the the front/face housing.

yeah, use your hands to gently push it forward, and from memory, twist down a little too so the top comes off first then lift away.

I used to do this so many times. Only way to remember how many klms I was getting up.
speedo only had up to 100,000 klms, so every 100K klms I'd place a a mark to show where it was at.

Got it up to 6 marks, so 660K klms in the end.

IME the manual is right..............you have to pull the bottom of the rear of the back cover towards you using one finger each side to disengage the two clips, which are located about 30mm from each bottom corner. You need to lift at the same time less than 10mm to disengage them.

Remember all the plastic has lost its flex.

Can't remember if you can see the clips through the windscreen, will look tomorrow.

Then you can gently lean it back to disengage the flange on it that sits inside the face and lift it to unscrew the odo reset cable. Hold the inside end with your fingers and use pliers or your fingers to undo the outside collar.

The rear cover can then be just lifted over the fascia to clear it. Take your time........ it's not obvious.

Everything will be very fragile including the flexi printed circuit for the warning and dash lights. Don't touch it or fiddle with it. The globe holders press in from memory.

I can pull mine out easily enough tomorrow to check all this.

cheers, DL

You can see the clips through the windscreen, as described. They're quite small.

DL

re "I have a few lights that don’t work so I need to check the bulbs (or even there is a bulb and holder) for operation." I have been attending to this very matter on my '88 over the last week. You may already be aware of this, but the ignition warning bulb is the only one of the lot that can be replaced in the conventional manner, ie., it has a 2w T5 wedge bulb that fits into a (red) plastic bayonet fitting that you twist out of the back of the binnacle. All the other warning lights in the cluster are complete 'units', in that the bulb and their plastic bayonet fitting (white) are a single unit. In other words, you can't just buy bulbs for them. I was actually missing a few and some had blown. An easy job to do, although I found the ones along the bottom of the binnacle a bit difficult to manipulate in and out - only because of my Andre the Giant size hands. I also found using a mirror on a stick very handy for being able to see what you're doing. Good luck.

Well, Graeme and Arthur, as the top of the binnacle wasn’t a tight fit I was able to gently push it towards the windscreen and pivot it back at the same time and it came off nicely.
I then undid the trip reset and all I had to do was gently slide it over the front of the instrument housing.
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Fragile/brittle are not words that adequately describe this

Looks about the same as mine was at one stage.

Glued it back together then sanded and fibreglassed the inside in epoxy, no probs since.

Thanks for the idea 350RRC, I have glued it back together and I have some epoxy resin and fibreglass so I might give that a go.
I pulled a couple of lights out and they are complete units with a bulb soldered in. It looks like an LED. To check that it was working I connected it across the battery and nothing happened. Reversed it and on it came, so they must be polarity sensitive, but there is nothing to ensure you fit it back in the right way around.
According to the parts book the holder uses 3W capless (wedge) bulbs, but clearly not in my RRC.
Best I could do with my phone.
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