Just for info stock bump stop clearance on a RRC is 50mm front and min 67mm at the rear with the Boge having a rest. Minimum 87mm when the Boge pumps itself up.
Should give you an idea of where you're at with new springs.
DL
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Just for info stock bump stop clearance on a RRC is 50mm front and min 67mm at the rear with the Boge having a rest. Minimum 87mm when the Boge pumps itself up.
Should give you an idea of where you're at with new springs.
DL
Now I have a set of springs where do I start with a set of shock absorbers. I do a bit of off-roading but nothing too serious. I figure with the small amount of lift I will end up with standard length shocks will be suitable. Would like to hear others opinion on this subject otherwise I will just get a set of standard length heavy duty shocks. Would like to hear which brand I should look into, or do I just get a Land Rover replacement set.
Put your new springs in with the shocks you have, see what the bump stop clearance actually is and go from there. There's no other way of doing this unless you are happy to potentially waste money.
The old RRC community has left a mountain of info about aftermarket springs / lifts / shocks, etc and there are sheds full of stuff that was purchased and didn't give the desired results because every one of those RRC's was unique like yours is.
cheers, DL
Try One Meal A Day... or cutting carbs... (Sort of ) Works for me... Usually... - Did last time I tried...[bigsad][bigsad][bigsad][bigwhistle][thumbsupbig]Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Kaye
I got the new springs in. Forgot to measure the front before fitting but measured the back. So before fitting the rear measurements from the ground to the top of the wheel arch were 790mm on the left and 779mm on the right. After fitting I measured 850mm on the left and 846mm on the right, so a gain of 60mm on the left and 67mm on the right or 2.4 inches and 2.6 inches for the rear.
The front with the new springs measures 845mm on the left and 848mm on the right. That gives a range of 845mm to 850mm across all four corners. I have a bullbar and winch on the front and two LPG tanks under the rear.
The overall length of the new springs compared to the old were practically the same but the coils were a lot thicker material on the new ones.
It took 2 1/2 hours to fit all four springs. The fronts went in pretty easy, but needed spring compressors for the rear. It turns out my shock absorbers were ok and didn't need to be replaced. They look like original Land Rover shocks as they have Land Rover stamped into the bottom of the bottom tube. Coming to think of it I am pretty sure I replaced them when I put this RRC back on the road around 2 years ago.
I like the look of it now and the rear end isn't all saggy. Might be time for some bigger tyres to fill the wheel arches, currently running 225/75R16.
Once I have done a few miles and the springs settle I will give an update on the measurements.
Just measured mine...........
Front wheel arches are 850 to the ground, 115 bump stop clearance.
Rear are 860 and 120 D/S, 130 P/S. Boge has no effect at that height unloaded, even when pumped up.
Just shows British 'tolerance' in chassis & body manufacturing tolerance back in the day.
Mine needed caster correction at that height via swivel slotting. Using bushes is a bodge.
I also use 2" extended braided brake lines because the single one at the rear was at its limit from memory, even with the top bracket bent a bit. LRA do a 2" solid line extension for $55 I noticed the other day.
See how you go, they're all different.
DL
Hi 350RRC, what springs do you have, the same as the ones I just fitted? KRFR-01 and KRRR-02 King Springs?
What is swivel slotting, never heard of it?
Pedders heavy duty hi lift............. they were on it when I bought it around 2000. Apparently Pedders made their own springs back then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Kaye
Search 'slotted swivels' on aulro, there's heaps of info.
I only did it because the steering wouldn't try to self centre driving down the highway, was luxury afterward.
The way to get an idea of the difference is to load the back up to the ****house (helps to have no boge fitted like mine at the time) so the rear is sitting right down and go for a drive.
If you find yours drives fine now, don't worry about it.............. They're all different.
DL