Thread: 82 RRC P76 V8 transplant advice

The P76 did have some early overheating issues caused by the original steel fan not being very efficient. That was sorted on later models with the use of a better fan with a viscus clutch.

As the P76 gets on in age it can start overheating again as the engine and radiator can scale up by using the old tech coolants or worse just water. A descale flush usually sorts that out.

I did a RR classic P76 conversion about 20 years ago and used the rover parts and didn't have a problem with overheating. It is basically the same engine after all, just a longer stroke and a little higher compression. The P76 water pumps are getting hard to come by and the are up there in price. Rover parts are so much cheaper and easy to get, so I would use Rover parts where ever I could. (Plus that leaves the Leyland parts for us with P76s).

If you did get overheating issues you could try one of the waterless coolants. Bit pricey at around $250 for a fill.


Leyland Car Owners -

Thanks FisherX
Yes, when cruising it only takes a certain amount of power to push a vehicle along regardless of what engine is developing that power, so under those circumstances the Rover pump should suffice.
I am also considering fitting twin electric fans (AU falcon or similar) as I enjoyed the tranquility with my old converted RRC. Amazing how much noise the engine driven fan makes.
I have read where people fit a “Holden “ pulley of a smaller diameter to speed up the rover pump to equate to the P76 pump.
Does anyone know what pulley is used ?.

Regards
Phil

I pulled the sump off to have a look inside.
The bores still have a nice home pattern.
Can anyone recognise if these are original pistons ?
424C8327-6F51-41AE-A95A-CFBCAF0A8337.jpg

I also took #2 main bearing cap off and measured the inside of the bearing shell and it is the original size.
Do you think I should reuse them ?
5A12B61D-1BB2-4774-B7A9-932268342283.jpg

Main bearing journal.
354FD79F-E95C-48AD-A5D8-56728E0CE44B.jpg

Regards
Phil

My P76 engine came with a Range Rover front timing cover but unfortunately it is an early one with short (22.2 mm) oil pump gears.
I have a P76 timing cover and the gears in it are 27.8 mm long which is longer than the “long” later model RRC gears that are 26.6 mm according to the Des Hammill book.
I realise that the P76 gears are only ~1 mm longer, but it does equate to 4% more oil than the long RRC gears and 25% more than the short RRC gears.
I either need to find a later RRC timing cover of I can fit a 5 mm plate cut to the shape of the pump and use the P76 gears (with appropriate gaskets, end clearance etc).

8F534538-0AA6-4343-AF1D-4528648EE892.jpg BA70917B-F42E-40E8-8F59-E8F0D5F181C3.jpg
All input welcome.

Phil

I was cleaning up the dodgy welding of the P76 thermostat outlet housing (see earlier photo) and it was full of porosity and fell apart.
A friend gave me some 10 mm aluminium plate so I made an adaptor to fit the P76 inlet manifold but have a pair of studs for a Rover thermostat housing.
P76 manifold.
7E04D1C1-7E86-4E5F-BAAC-41396450D69D.jpg
Adaptor plate.
A9BC9E39-9D6B-405A-BB59-04364D008A64.jpg
Rover thermostat housing.
EF3B9A92-473C-4220-BDE8-4542B9C835C2.jpg
Now a standard RRC top hose will fit with a short spacer at the radiator.

Now I just need a pair of 82 or later RR cylinder heads so I can run unleaded fuel and bolt the alternator bracket and power steering pump to them as the P76 heads don’t have any holes in the ends of them.

Phil

I once had a PT pump on a Cummins, that became porous. Multiple coats of high temperature engine paint fixed it.

I have a P76 4.4 sitting in my shed with a corroded outlet as well

Don't forget the thermostat outlet is made from an weak metal mix and designed to act as the sacrificial anode in a mixed metal cooling system.

They corrode because they're designed to.