Thread: Looking for a RR 2 Door restorer proj- some high level guidance would be appreciated

Hi Nobby, One consideration that may or may not affect your choice is that from 1976 they had to meet ADRs, which meant a lot of extra hoses and stuff to complicate things. Getting that sorted was my biggest hassle when going for a RWC with mine.
As others have said, look for originality and completeness, bumpers, wheels, badges, etc, and straight panels and dash that haven’t had holes cut in them or been modified.
There are probably a few reasonable ones out there still, but finding one at a fair price might take a bit of patience. Try contacting the clubs, I know one came up in Victoria during the year.
Good luck,
Woolly.

Originally Posted by discopete

Hi Noddy,
I don't think the early vehicles have SNs stamped on chassis. One of the first things I look at is the goal post/rear frame to see if it has a notch out of it in the top centre which indicates it's an early vehicle. There is always a chance this has been replaced but the probability of this is low. The said vehicle is lacking early goal post notch and has many other later model features such as dash, steering wheel etc.

I highly recommend a copy of this for anyone embarking on an early classic journey!

Original Range Rover

Cheers, Peter

So that means its worth looking for the chassis number. If there is one there ..... like you have said, its a later car If there is none there, it could be a later body on the early chassis ?

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

So that means its worth looking for the chassis number. If there is one there ..... like you have said, its a later car If there is none there, it could be a later body on the early chassis ?

Which makes it????? As a rivet counter, definitely one to avoid. I guess it depends on what you want it for, and importantly how much it is worth/you are willing to pay.

Peter

It really comes down to what you want the car for.
I had a 1975 RRC many years ago, and now in my more mature years I decided that I want one again.
Year model is not important to me as long as it was a 2 door.
I bought a 1982 RRC as they “all look the same”.
It is in reasonable mechanical condition but I will still go over everything just to be sure.
There is some rust in the front floors and bottom of the A pillars. These I can fix, However every body panel needs work and I will attempt this but I may have to have them done professionally if I can’t achieve an acceptable finish.
My main criteria was to get a car that was complete and this one is other than a few interior trim panels which are available.
Im not trying to make a profit from the restoration as the restoration is the project that I want to do and then ultimately have a RRC to drive around (and probably constantly tinker with) for many years to come.

Phil

Originally Posted by Phil 850

It really comes down to what you want the car for.
''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
There is some rust in the front floors and bottom of the A pillars. These I can fix, However every body panel needs work and I will attempt this but I may have to have them done professionally if I can’t achieve an acceptable finish...................

Im not trying to make a profit from the restoration as the restoration is the project that I want to do and then ultimately have a RRC to drive around (and probably constantly tinker with) for many years to come.

Phil

Complete floor repair panels (metal) are available from Paddocks, as are most side panels in ABS, very cheaply.

Why **** around with the side panel aly that's only going to get dented from an angry glance in a car park?

Life's too short to worry about minute detail............ my POS certainly isn't original but it looks like it is, is far more reliable and capable, on or off road than stock 74. Dollars aren't high on my bucket list.

cheers, DL

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

So that means its worth looking for the chassis number. If there is one there ..... like you have said, it's a later car If there is none there, it could be a later body on the early chassis ?

Other way round............... they all have chassis numbers, but didn't have a matching number on the body till 90, 92ish.

The 'big money' 2 doors have numbers on the diffs matching the chassis and an engine with a number that matches the larger aly plate near the bonnet catch receiver AFAIR.

cheers, DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Other way round............... they all have chassis numbers, but didn't have a matching number on the body till 90, 92ish.

The 'big money' 2 doors have numbers on the diffs matching the chassis and an engine with a number that matches the larger aly plate near the bonnet catch receiver AFAIR.

cheers, DL

Yes, technically they all had chassis numbers but from my understanding they were not stamped on chassis until late seventies/early eighties, they were only found on the ID plate. Here is mine as an example which is all original numbering from factory. The engine number is 355.... with a B suffix which is correct for that period. It is however an 8.5:1cr which apparently were only for suffix "a" vehicles but obviously in the changeover they used up what they had at on hand. Correct me if I am wrong. Have you located the chassis number on yours other than on ID plate?

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Originally Posted by discopete

Yes, technically they all had chassis numbers but from my understanding they were not stamped on chassis until late seventies/early eighties, they were only found on the ID plate. Here is mine as an example which is all original numbering from factory. The engine number is 355.... with a B suffix which is correct for that period. It is however an 8.5:1cr which apparently were only for suffix "a" vehicles but obviously in the changeover they used up what they had at on hand. Correct me if I am wrong. Have you located the chassis number on yours other than on ID plate?

..........

My 74 has the chassis number in the usual place, as did the 80 or 81 one that donated the 'Masai red'.

cheers, DL