Reply With QuoteFamous Four UK - do spare parts (new & used) but are priiiicey.
Ausclassics in Vic do carpet kits.
If you have a VIN# - ring British Car Components in North Melbourne for parts.
Member
LUCKYOZ
Hi All
Just new to the forum & the proud owner of a low klm. 1993 Classic Range Rover Vogue S.E. in really good nik.- ( bought just prior to 1st lock down ) which i absolutely love but i am having some problems lately with the Central locking / Alarm amongst other minor electrical issues e.g. cruise control, mirrors, seats etc. & was wondering if anyone could recommend a good Auto Electric. in & around the Dandenong area that knows his way around the older cars and isn't a rip off.
Also where is the best place to get both new & used spare parts locally or overseas, there seems to be a big variation in pricing
cheers in advance for any assistance
YarnMaster
Famous Four UK - do spare parts (new & used) but are priiiicey.
Ausclassics in Vic do carpet kits.
If you have a VIN# - ring British Car Components in North Melbourne for parts.
88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
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VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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Wizard
SubscriberCentral locking is driven by the driver's door actuator. If that fails, it can cascade the issue to the other doors. I have a new original one somewhere, but I think there are other much cheaper options available now, including generic ones. The little springs in the door locks can also break. They cost nothing to buy but you have to dismantle each door to replace. Also the links can develop slack and the little plastic clips can break.
The alarm module eventually dies and is so outdated there is little point in trying to repair/replace it. You can bypass it with an aftermarket unit.
Cruise control is also outdated and, again, I wouldn't bother trying to rehabilitate it. But worth checking the vacuum hoses aren't causing the problem as replacing/repairing them is a quick fix.
The mirror switch was virtually unobtainable years ago, so I doubt if it's much better now. But that's all it will be, most probably.
As for the seats, the switch is almost certainly filled with gunk. They are cleanable, but you have to be very careful.
None of the above are particularly difficult to diagnose and access if you are reasonably handy. Paying someone to work it all out will be hideously expensive, no matter how good they are.
I'd be doing a lot of diagnosing before throwing parts at the car.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
Member
fantastic information and much thanks to all. Looks like i have my work cut out for me, now i just need to find some spare time...cheers for now.
Master
SubscriberFurther to this, the central locking from at least 1991 (or at least in my 91 SE) is controlled by both front doors. RR has a tricky system which kind of cross over each other - the old actuators get sticky and slow. I struggled with this when I was trying to work out a keyless entry for mine. I bought a 5 wire central locking kit (available at Jaycar or online - the 4 wire kit from my old D1 did not work). Initially I just put in the controller and replaced the driver's door actuator - that led to all the locks just jumping up and down with the crossed signal (I'm not an auto electrician so it was puzzling). Eventually I replaced the front passenger door actuator with a standard 2 wire unit (using just the two wires in the loom that control the lock, these should be the same colours as the ones at the back doors). WIth keyless entry there was no need to unlock all doors from the passenger side front - this resolved the jumping up and down. Overall this was a pain of a job, as using new actuators require some door modification (slight cutting to fit) identifying and reversing wires (push/pull to actuate locks is opposite in replacements). Ultimately satisfying as now I have a fully functional keyless entry, saving my keys and locks for a bit longer.Originally Posted by DieselLSE
Also replaced the actuators in the rear with new units from the kit, pretty much a straight swap - even though the lock spring had failed in the left rear door, the new actuator was strong enough that it opened the lock properly with no issue even with the broken spring, one less job to do.
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