Thread: Leaking hub seal

G`day Wayne

Is the new seal double lipped ?

Did you mount the new seal in the same place as the old one ?

Did you look for any marks in the hub ?

Cheers

PLR, cant recall if the lip was double or single, is there a choice? I actually took the hub into the main dealers when buying the seals as It was a fair trip which I did not want to do twice. The seal is against the half shaft which looked in perfect shape, the only thing I am thinking is the outer edge of the seal seated in the hub did not seam that tight hence the question regarding an assembly sealant?

The double lip seal seal is to keep the oil in the hub when you remove the axle seal to have oil lubed wheel bearings.

If you have an axle seal and want greased wheel bearings then the seal you need to stop leaking is the axle seal. However oil leaking from a new hub seal means that water can get in easily in crossings. Hence the double lipped hub seal is still a good idea.

Originally Posted by Utemad

The double lip seal seal is to keep the oil in the hub when you remove the axle seal to have oil lubed wheel bearings.

Have I got this right?
The half shaft/hub inner seal can be removed allowing gear oil into the bearings (whats happening now) and the axle seal which previously held grease back can be replaced with a double lipped upgrade. Do you know the part number or a source.

That's right.

The seal is RTC3511. Available from any Land Rover parts supplier and no doubt elsewhere as well.

Originally Posted by Utemad

That's right.

The seal is RTC3511. Available from any Land Rover parts supplier and no doubt elsewhere as well.

Thanks for that info I will get onto it. I Just did a quick google on "RTC3511" and hit......

Tech Tip: we recommend using RTC3511 hub seals even if you don't eliminate the axle case seal. This is a double lip seal and a vast improvement over the seal currently specified by Land Rover. When Land Rover added the axle case seal they used a much less effective hub seal because the wheel bearing now specified only requires wheel bearing grease for the bearings. Wheel bearing grease is very easy to seal in because it doesn't go anywhere ie: it doesn't flow. The problem is the current specified seal isn't very effective at sealing things out such as water - hence the risk premature of wheel bearing failure! When installing RTC3511 hub seals, recess them 3mm into the hub or you will get a false reading on your wheel bearing preload.

Originally Posted by wayneg

PLR, cant recall if the lip was double or single, is there a choice? I actually took the hub into the main dealers when buying the seals as It was a fair trip which I did not want to do twice. The seal is against the half shaft which looked in perfect shape, the only thing I am thinking is the outer edge of the seal seated in the hub did not seam that tight hence the question regarding an assembly sealant?

G`day Wayne

Sounds like Justins helped you sort it .

The usual seals for yours are single lip , just a notal looking seal with 1 flta side and the other with the spring , a double is as it sounds .

The other 2 questions were because it`s best not to run a new seal on exactly the same place , it only needs to be a couple of mm one way and it runs on untouched hub surface which gives it a much better chance of sealing .

The fitting of the double is different to the single and if you already have a double and it`s no fitted right it will leak .

I know you should be able to trust the people who should know but sometimes it`s not warranted .

Cheers

The apprentice and I just replaced all rear bearings and seals on my 87 build Range Rover.
Oil lubed bearings, but with grease type hub seals! No leaks, but the bearings were knackered. Old age, I suspect.
I have absolutely no idea how many km they had done, I have never touched them before (3 years ownership with lots of kms done).

I used RTC3511 hub seals and also the outer hub seals were renewed. I don't think they actually do much (sealed axle ends), but I had access to them, so in they went.