Will it ever start agian?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by blue steal

Just an update,

it would apear that it would have a better chance of starting if it was pushing less water through.

So my options at this stage are

A: drop all the coolant, and replace with petrol...

B: take of the head, inspect, clean and hopefully just replace the gasket

C: sell as complete wreck or as parts..


option A is very appealing, especially given that its insured for a lot:D

is much work invovled in option B ?

anyone interested in C ?

---

Ow much?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Ow much?

---

Im thinking i could get $3400 out of it in parts pretty quick so probably about that.

So i have made it this far.

http://plushrides.com.au/random/engine.jpg


not sure if that brown colour was factory :wasntme:... what do i do from here???

is it worth continuing... taking the heads out... machined... put back in???

will this cost a lot? can i do it myself?? what other options??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by blue steal

So i have made it this far.


not sure if that brown colour was factory :wasntme:... what do i do from here???

is it worth continuing... taking the heads out... machined... put back in???

will this cost a lot? can i do it myself?? what other options??

---

It's been wet for a long time ..... SO ... Have you figured where the coolants coming from .... I take it that the pots (pistons) are still full of coolant also??

Off with its heads, Baldrick! Check carefully while they are coming off where any coolant may spill from.

It may be just a case of machine heads, new gaskets and back together.

BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT...

Have you done a compression test? A leak down test? Any sort of test to check where things are at???

Pete

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pierre

Off with its heads, Baldrick! Check carefully while they are coming off where any coolant may spill from.

It may be just a case of machine heads, new gaskets and back together.

BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT...

Have you done a compression test? A leak down test? Any sort of test to check where things are at???

Pete

---

no.... i hadn't. I was thinking that as i pulled the last bit off... realising it could still be any number of areas where the coolant is getting in....

i never taken the top of an engine before... not one like this anyhow... I had an old 265 hemi apart a few times.... i got this far, got scared, so i ran inside with pics seeking advice...:D

i presume coolant isn't ment to be in this part of the engine.. i noticed an asymetric buldge in the cover... perhaps when the temp gauge reaches red, it isn't kidding.

So if i take it further appart (guesing i will have to do both sides) i should be able to access all seals that the coolant can get through? can i tell if it needs to be machined??

i'm guesing the pistons have coolant in there....

what gasket areas can possibly leak coolant into the engine? this one and the two heads???

Quote:

---

not sure if that brown colour was factory :wasntme:... what do i do from here???

---

That brown colour and cam silver is beyootiful and clean. It looks to me that the ports have been ground and that the engine is very low miles or rebuilt.
Some inlet ports are clean also which is a bit of a mystery.
WORST CASE SCENARIO Maybe someone has rebuilt this engine with new gaskets but it was the liners.
There looks to be a leak into the valley from the RH head water passage at the front.
Looks like rust on the pushrods .
Overall that part of the engine looks great.
qualification that it may look different close up in person.
Regards Philip A

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PhilipA

That brown colour and cam silver is beyootiful and clean. It looks to me that the ports have been ground and that the engine is very low miles or rebuilt.
Some inlet ports are clean also which is a bit of a mystery.
WORST CASE SCENARIO Maybe someone has rebuilt this engine with new gaskets but it was the liners.
There looks to be a leak into the valley from the RH head water passage at the front.
Looks like rust on the pushrods .
Overall that part of the engine looks great.
qualification that it may look different close up in person.
Regards Philip A

---

You do have a eye for detail Phillip :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by blue steal

i never taken the top of an engine before... not one like this anyhow... I had an old 265 hemi apart a few times.... i got this far, got scared, so i ran inside with pics seeking advice...:D

i presume coolant isn't ment to be in this part of the engine.. i noticed an asymetric buldge in the cover... perhaps when the temp gauge reaches red, it isn't kidding.

So if i take it further appart (guesing i will have to do both sides) i should be able to access all seals that the coolant can get through? can i tell if it needs to be machined??

i'm guesing the pistons have coolant in there....

what gasket areas can possibly leak coolant into the engine? this one and the two heads???

---

Yes .... Temperature gauge isn't kidding ......

If you have done a Hemi .... Same principles .... Just less bolts per head
Just remember to mark & match all parts ... so it all goes back together as taken apart

I WOULD do a compression check on the "Good" pistons .... as the heads have been worked on ... so it would be good to know "What compression is it?" ... If the inlets have been milled ... then the question is "Did they shave the head?" (for compression increase?)

Rip the heads off .... Then make a decision .... As you have nothing to loose
Remember to crack the bolts in a "reversed torqued sequence" ... Not just undo / remove them :(

Do both sides ...( If you are to do a job ... You only want to do it once ;) )
Both heads will have to be "faced" at a head shop (tested for straight)

It's the Steel bore liners in the block that you need to check
There are photos of what a slipped liner looks like on this forum


And make sure you have a manual at hand for this engine to refer to
And spray some CRC on the exposed metal parts to stop the rust :(

Mike

:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

You do have a eye for detail Phillip :)




Yes .... Temperature gauge isn't kidding ......

If you have done a Hemi .... Same principles .... Just less bolts per head
Just remember to mark & match all parts ... so it all goes back together as taken apart

I WOULD do a compression check on the "Good" pistons .... as the heads have been worked on ... so it would be good to know "What compression is it?" ... If the inlets have been milled ... then the question is "Did they shave the head?" (for compression increase?)

Rip the heads off .... Then make a decision .... As you have nothing to loose
Remember to crack the bolts in a "reversed torqued sequence" ... Not just undo / remove them :(

Do both sides ...( If you are to do a job ... You only want to do it once ;) )
Both heads will have to be "faced" at a head shop (tested for straight)

It's the Steel bore liners in the block that you need to check
There are photos of what a slipped liner looks like on this forum


And make sure you have a manual at hand for this engine to refer to
And spray some CRC on the exposed metal parts to stop the rust :(

Mike

:)

---

Cool off to work we go... it is possible this engine had been previously moded a bit... it was the fastest rangie i had ever driven (even when using Gas).... apart it goes!!

What i need to do for a compresion check? Do i do this before i take it all apart? can I do it myself at home? do i need to do it if its all coming apart and back together anyway?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by blue steal

Cool off to work we go... it is possible this engine had been previously moded a bit... it was the fastest rangie i had ever driven (even when using Gas).... apart it goes!!

What i need to do for a compresion check? Do i do this before i take it all apart? can I do it myself at home? do i need to do it if its all coming apart and back together anyway?

---

Blue Steel .... VERY important .... Whats your location ... AS this makes it easier to know which direction to send you to for parts ect

GO and buy a cheap compression gauge .... use it BEFORE DISMANTALING
THE reason to check prior is because you will need a indication of what the previous owner did when modding the heads .. IE ... Did they go overboard??

Takes 2 for test with the cheap gauge
.... 1 to turn the key of starter motor
.... The other to hold the gauge
YES ... you can do it all at home in a shed




The heads are made of Aluminium ... UNBOLT in the "stepped reverse sequence"
IF you just unbolt it .. you run the risk of major warping of head

DON'T treat it as a cast iron head

You will need to take it to a head shop to "Face it"




BUY A manual ..... You need to "help yourself" if you want "some help from us"

Buy this ...

Dave's Interesting Things - Rave I

Buy this

Range Rover 1970 - 1992 Petrol V8 Shop Manual

Look through this

Range Rover | The Pitstop Bookshop

Mike

:)