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Thread: Overheating in 45 degree ambient- ?to be expected

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by tarz37 View Post
    My 92 RR auto is bucking up with the heat.
    When I have stopped after driving in this heat, and then restarted, my air cond. compressor does not want to reingage. It bangs away [I think this is the clutch engaging and then disengaging] until I get moving at a reason able pace. Is this back pressure in the AC system and if so can I do damage driving with the AC on until it settles down?
    How do I prevent this from happening?
    Frank
    there could be a few things with problem
    1 high pressure switch not working to well
    2 condenser fans not working causing the high pressure
    3 block reciver dry
    4 tx valve has a problem
    5 condenser full of bugs,dust,grass seeds
    you will damage compressure if it keeps up knocking on and off
    clean out condenser would be my first step this is the heart of the aircon if you can not cool the gas/liquid down youll all way be chassing your tail in fix this fault
    hope this helps a little

  2. #12
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by tarz37 View Post
    That is not the answer I am looking for.
    Any mug can take their car to be serviced. What I want to know is what is happening?
    The reason I go on this forum is for advice from other owners who may have experienced a similar problem. Dont offer the obvious Philip A. If you dont have an answer keep off the forum.
    It is you who is out of order here .... as this Q is a Hijack on some else's thread
    As said above ^^^^ the whole system is at fault including lack of gas, if it has been leaking through the seals

    So Phillip's answer is appropriate .... as it can only be sorted with the appropriate tools in a A/C shop // as given the age of the car & A/C, it will most probably be a leaking set of seals & and new compressor replacement required, at least


    A freebie tip .... Look at the 96 Disco front condenser as a replacement unit ... as it is a better design than the RRC model and appears to have the same dimensions

    Mike

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    Bit warm down here at the moment- had to drive into melbourne yesterday for a medical consult, ambient temp got up to 45 degrees. My 94 3.9 RRC (no modifications) was performing faultlessly on the freeway with the aircon on; as soon as I turned off the freeway the temp guage went up near the red, just managed to keep it around the half-way mark with a/c off and keeping moving, holding revs up at traffic lights. On the way home, had to turn off the a/c on hills to manage the engine temp.
    I'm wondering what the experiences of other owners are, is this to be expected or should I get the radiator flushed? My 88 model has never had temp rise.
    viscuss most likely cause if radiator fins are straight and clean
    if the motor is warm the fan should have a bit of resistance when spun buy hand if it spinds freely it on its last legs

  4. #14
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    That is not the answer I am looking for.
    Any mug can take their car to be serviced. What I want to know is what is happening?
    The reason I go on this forum is for advice from other owners who may have experienced a similar problem. Dont offer the obvious Philip A. If you dont have an answer keep off the forum.
    Frisky young fella isn't he?
    The reason I answered in the way I did is that although I do not know a hell of a lot about air conditioners , I do know enough to know that the problem is most probably internal to the system , such as a blocked TX valve or maybe a blocked receiver /dryer.

    Given it is internal, how does a guy who seems to know very little about it and have no tools, safely and environmentally evacuate the system, fix the problem and then regas with R134A or some R12 replacement?

    IMHO he will have to go to a specialist either sooner or later.

    I guess I was trying to save him from his own macho.

    Regard sPhilip A

  5. #15
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    Haven't been on here for a couple of days, thanks for the responses in the mean time. I think the viscous coupling is u/s, it was spinning fairly freely after driving on another hot day. I took it off in the hope of swapping the one from my 88RR to test, but they are opposite threads! Think I'll have the rad cleaned out too.

  6. #16
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    I took it off in the hope of swapping the one from my 88RR to test, but they are opposite threads! Think I'll have the rad cleaned out too.
    On ya for rodding the radiator

    Opposite threads ??? ... Your sure ?? .... as both V8's run in the same direction, and the thread is suppose to be the reverse to ensure it stays locked up when the motor is driven

    All you do is hit it off with a "hammer on a spanner" in the same direction as the motor turns ... Clockwise

  7. #17
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    Yeah, the later model (on the 3.9 with serpentine belt) is a r/h thread. I made up a tool a few years back to hold the hub still against the spanner- hitting a spanner with a hammer does not always work (had to drive home from Coober Pedy to Drouin with one blade missing off the fan- not pleasant).
    I remember the 88 model is a L/H thread, so I was grunting and heaving on the one on the 3.9 until my wife says "It looks like you're making it tighter!". Sure enough, tried it anti-clockwise (really tight now!) and off it came. So I thinks "Memory must be failing me, they're a normal thread" and proceeded to tighten the one on the 3.5- got it pretty darn tight before I decided maybe the memory wasn't that bad after all. All this on a hot engine on a 43 degree day. Upshot- the hubs are not interchangeable so I was wasting my time.

  8. #18
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    I had a viscous unit fail on a Toyota I had many years ago, failed whilst climbing out of the Wonnangatta Valley on a hot day. We removed the viscous coupling, opened it up and put a small twig between the two halves, then bolted it back together. The twig locked the two halves together against rotation, worked like a solid hub and got us home.
    Thought the trick might be handy for someone else sometime. When your mates are duly impressed, tell them you learned it from me.

    What I do remember is that there was a fluid leak from the coupling on that occasion, which explained the failure. There is no evidence of fluid loss from the coupling in question here- do they give up for other reasons?

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