Hey Mark,
the carbs on the green 2 door might solve your problems.
Pete
guys
I think the time has come where my dual carbs need an overhaul. They seem fine one day and the next they are playing up with flat spots, back fires etc. JC has had a look at them and there doesnt appear to be anything majorly wrong with them. When they are playing up, a little choke seems to correct them and they are fine so I am thinking its more of a fuel issue than an electric problem
So I am thinking that maybe they just need an overhaul. So my questions are
1. is there such a thing as an 'overhaul kit' and if so, how much and what comes in the kit
2. is it a DIY type of kit ie pull apart, fit new rubbers, needles etc and put back together
3. any advice from anyone who has done this before. I havent delved into dual carbs before on a LR so any advice appreciated.
thanks in advance![]()
Hey Mark,
the carbs on the green 2 door might solve your problems.
Pete
My experience is from a LOOONG time ago but it should still be the same.
The kit usually has everything but a new fuel needle and main jet.
These have to be bought separately.
You should perhaps check the diaphragms first. This entails only undoing 4 screws at the top and looking in.
Regards Philip A
Hi Mark,
I re-sealed my carbies a couple of years ago.
I cant remember if the kits came from repco or coventries but the kit comes with all seals a new diaphragm and i`m pretty sure it had instructions.
You will need two kits obviously and if i remember correctly they were only about 35bucks each
Ian
if you get a bit more power when you give it some choke it might be the dizzy back plate thats worn. I had dramas years ago in UK with a V8 lightweight. If you give it some choke it was like a turbo kicking in. The motor had Su`s and i tried about 3 sets with no difference then changed the dizzy and the problem was solved!
Ian
Thanks Ian.
It only needs the choke pulled out about a quarter of an inch and its not like extra power, i just stops the bloody thing from misfiring/fluttering. Its more like an intermittent and brief stall where theres a sudden loss of power for a split second and then it comes goodvery weird
check your manifold vac, dizzy vac advance and the points plate.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Suck on the hose to the vacuum advance unit, to make sure the diaphram is OK
Make sure the advance plate is twisting OK (watch the plate move when sucking diaphram)
Wiggle the rotor button for play / Check for not worn
Take rotor button off / check shaft for play (wiggle it) // Watch, look at the air gap between the "star rotor" and the "pickup" (under the clear cap)
Lube the advance plate / Check spring tension (smooth, not stuck)
Check Dizzy cap for condition / burnt lobes / hair line cracks
Then .... Put a timing light on / check for any "variance" in timing mark position on the Harmonic balancer
Mike
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The plate that the points or sensor fix to gets worn, if you grab it with your finger and thumb and it feels loose and moves around it could be giving problems as it will effect the vacuum advance and the timing will keep changing. There is an ad in the UK landy mags for a guy who rebuilds dizzy`s but i dont know if any body does over here.
Ian
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