Thread: Just Bought an '89 Rangie

Originally Posted by richzx

Can someone help me out with how to get the interior lights working as neither my front or rear ones are working and I can't work out how the cover comes off?

How do I tell if I have viscous gear ot the other sort?

The lenses rotate about 5mm then drop off (or you might need to lever them out if they are tight). Have a look at the fuse for the interior lights - does the horn work ? (my 87 has the horn & interior lights on the same fuse)

Check your transfer case knob. If you can move it sideways & it says 'diff lock' then you have the early transfer case. Standard on the 89 is the viscous though.

Originally Posted by richzx

Well I just bought some Narva replacement headlights for the Rangie with 100/55w bulbs. I'll try and get these fitted this weekend . Does anyone know if I need to upgrade the wiring with a relay to run the 100 watters or is the standard set up ok?

I'd run relays for those for sure, on the high side at least & you'll probably get a better light on low too with a relay.

The RR wiring won't be what you expect though as each light has it's own circuit & fuse: left high, left low, right high, right low.

You can either fit relays to the RH side & run both headlights from here & leave the LH disconnected or fit relays to both sides. Both sides would be preferable IMO due to the fact that you can lose both sides if a fuse blows.

Thanks for that Scott. I spoke to my brother and he had trouble with the interior lights and disconnected them so I will have to check it all out.
With that info I have the viscous transfer case which sounds suitable for my purposes.
The headlights sound like an unusual set up so I will get a couple of relays to make sure I have no dramas with them.
It's funny, I took the Rangie in to get a roadworthy for rego and the place I took it to had someone come in and ask if it was for sale! Lol.
The more drive it the more I like it, it just needs more grunt!

Well I pulled the old headlights out and they were rubbish, they had 100/80W bulbs in them and the spotties came on with the high beam as well! I don't think the electrics liked that much so I put the new lights in and they are WAAAYYY better and I pulled the spotties off as they were UV affected and not giving off much light either. I will take it for a run tonight and see how the lights go.

Don't change the engine bloke.
The ZF tranny is designed to be lazy and get the best in fuel efficiency.
If you want the old girl to go just drive it like a manual and dont let it change gears to early.
The engines last forever. Only problem is head gasket. It will more than likely have already had a gasket change anyway. If not it wont be long before you notice water consumption. Aside from that the engine is bullet proof.
Once you get used to four wheel driving you will learn to hate the the Viscous transfers case.
You will ony break the CV joints if you fit a locker. Mine has lockers and the older stronger CV's and I have still broken a CV. The locker is the thing that will break the CV's and the axles. The worst part of the Range Rover is the Differentials. Hard core off roading will ALWAYS break a rear diff. If you are on a budget but good with your hands I recomend removing the diff and tack welding the shaft to stop it spinning.
The shaft spinning in the housing wears an elongated hole then the gears dont mesh properly and well you know what happens after that.

Cheers Buzz

It would have been cheaper and better to replace your H4's with 'Plus-50' uprated globes. Better beam control on low-beam, less glare and easier on the eyes colour.

HID's may make your car 'unroadworthy' over there, apart from being a source of uncontrolled glare for other road users... I removed my HIDs for that reason.
Also, according to ADRs, if the lamp output is above 2000 lumens, then it 'must' be fitted with an automatic washing device...

Probably a bit late now, but it would make more sense to sink that money into decent driving lights.

cheers